VF 4 pole and 1/8 motors we are looking a July release date. No pricing info at this time, but I guarantee it will be competitive to the market prices.

OMG - some of those questions asked by bds will help us point in the right direction. Only one I didn't see posted was- are you running vents in your body to let air in? Also what motor timing (on the can) are you running?

Spider - yes, that 2.0 chassis is a long one isn't it.

i have just installed a vtx10 with a 10.5 vst motor, i have it all as stock settings, however when i change from standerd mode(blinky race) to Race open mode, the motor sounds like its not maxing out and sounds like it stuttering at full throttle, but if i add timing it seems to start to go away, cant tell a differnce on track as havnt been to it yet.

p.s this is my first eletric race car(i normally race 1/8 buggy gas)
22sct

Lower your Slew rate. I believe the stock setting is 8. Change it to 3. The timing will come on smoother and will not chatter. The slew rate is how fast the timing ramps up.

Well then!!!
 

July release is cutting it kinda close for Nationals @ LCRC... Hope I can get some runs in before with the E-Scale. I'll just keep the setup I'm running in the Ten-SCTE 2.0/MIP...

Yeah I thought the freaking MIP was long. The 2.0 def has some more length.

I would check you radio settings, make sure the calibration is showing full throttle - solid red light at full throttle. Make sure you set EPA on radio at 100 for throttle and brake. Saw that type of problem when EPA set at 120-150.

PC_Link Program Help!
 

I just got a Viper VTX10R Black Edition Lite (no Proguage). I also have the Viper PC-Link. I downloaded the PC-Link program for the VTX10 and VTX10R Black Edition only: ViperVLink_VTX10R_BE_201.20911.zip and unzipped the executable file. Viper ESC is connected to a Tekin Gen2 10.5 motor and installed into a TLR 22SCT. The ESC came with firmware 5.5 loaded,and the V Link program shows that to be the latest version.

When using the Viper V Link program the check-box that must be clicked in order to proceed when you open the Motor Power tab does not work. Therefore, I am unable to set any of the Motor Timing parameters. I am using Windows 7 Professional Service Pack 1 64-bit OS with all current updates.

I have downloaded the program several times. I have rebooted the PC. I have made sure it is the only program running. I have stopped and restarted the program several times. I have tried various Windows compatibility settings. I have tried using a different mouse. I have tried clicking all over the screen just in case the click box is not in the right place. I have turned the ESC on and off several times and checked the battery and all connections. I have loaded different profiles to work with. Basically I have tried and retried everything possible to ensure the ESC and the PC-Link are setup and running properly. Nothing makes any difference.

The Motor Timing check-box does not work, so I am unable to set motor timing parameters. Everything else in the program works fine. I'm out ideas. Seems like a bug in the program.

Anyone else run into this snag? Anyone know of a fix?

Please help. Thanks in advance.

I'd call Nick at Viper. The most helpful folks on the planet!!

I have only just used pc-link twice recently as well. I was able to adjust the motor power on profiles 3 and 4. Maybe select a different profile before adjusting the motor power.

Regardless of profile, you must be in "RACE OPEN" mode to access the boost settings on the ESC.

Connect your V-Link and go to the MISC CONTROL tab and switch to Race Open. Then you can click the box and start applying boost. Dont forget to click the UPDATE ESC button to save your changes.

Keep an eye on both your ESC and Motor temps when adding boost through the ESC.

Yes! Thanks! I actually just discovered that on my own and was returning to post an update. Thanks for confirming;)

Yep ---- what they said!!!! Thanks for the guys. Hope you enjoy sapperc

Be a little careful going straight into using boost functions, it takes a little time to get the right set up. And another word of advice, don't really need to use a slew rate higher than 2 (its just makes the esc heat up too much).

i had just set it up, calibrated correctly, as blinky works fine, its just when i switch to "race open"

Thanks for the tips. First time using a Viper ESC. Trying to get the various settings sorted out. I've read the printed guide and also the guide in the Viper forum, but I still have questions.

Specifically, how do the motor timing parameters work together?

Here's the way I think it works from reading the instructions. At the end of the acceleration range the electronic timing advance will be at the setting listed in the Max Advanced Timing parameter under the Acceleration Boost settings. Boost of 35 degrees = 35 degrees + any physical can timing, if any.

Unless I also have set a Max Advanced Timing parameter under the Top Speed Timing settings. In that case I add them together to find the total max electronic timing advance at the end of the acceleration range. Boost of 35 degrees + Top Speed of 15 degrees = 50 degrees + any physical can timing, if any.

So, what is the purpose of having two different timing settings to advance the the timing over the acceleration range? Aren't they both doing the same thing? Or does Boost advance timing more rapidly than the timing dialed into Top Speed parameter? Or do I have it wrong altogether?

Please explain. Thanks in advance.
Chris

Look at it as two different settings. Boost gets you going its - the kick it the but to get you off the line and start the acceleration process. The top speed is the extra timing from when you kit that rpm point you designated earlier. Added in the Slew Rate - which is how hard the process gets kicked in the but.

Now if you make it too aggressive with a higher rpm motor -- it will start to act erratic -- which is probably what LosiPRACER is seeing in the Open Mode, because his profile probably has a good bit of Timing, and Slew Rate involved.

Many people hear boost and automatically think it has to be maximum setting to go the fastest. And that is not true. What you are trying to do is aid the natural acceleration you would get from the motor and the gear ratio. You never really want to run 30º timing or anything higher than 4 slew rate under most circumstances. You want to set it to give yourself that extra push.

Its a process to really set it up right - there is no plug and play set up. Because everyone's track is different, driving style different, "feel" for what they want is different. So its an experiment to find the right set up for your needs.

Hey nikos

I have an old vtx10 that I would like to trade in under the trade in program. Would I be able to upgrade for a vtx10r and pay the difference?