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-   -   Viper RC - (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/455152-viper-rc.html)

Antimullet 05-08-2013 06:55 AM

Nick, do you have any good baseline setups for a vtx8 and a Tekin 1900kv in a 1:8 Ebuggy? (Tekno EB-48). I just installed it and am thoroughly impressed by the build quality and user friendly software. Great job Viper!
Aaron

nikos2002 05-08-2013 07:08 AM

Ivegotklas- if you follow the links on our site it will give you more details about the trade in program.

Antimullet- start with profile and adjust to fit your style. Should be pretty close. Thanks for the props, the engineers appreciate it!!! :cool:

sapperc 05-08-2013 07:55 AM


Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12128749)
Look at it as two different settings. Boost gets you going its - the kick it the but to get you off the line and start the acceleration process. The top speed is the extra timing from when you kit that rpm point you designated earlier. Added in the Slew Rate - which is how hard the process gets kicked in the but.

Now if you make it too aggressive with a higher rpm motor -- it will start to act erratic -- which is probably what LosiPRACER is seeing in the Open Mode, because his profile probably has a good bit of Timing, and Slew Rate involved.

Many people hear boost and automatically think it has to be maximum setting to go the fastest. And that is not true. What you are trying to do is aid the natural acceleration you would get from the motor and the gear ratio. You never really want to run 30º timing or anything higher than 4 slew rate under most circumstances. You want to set it to give yourself that extra push.

Its a process to really set it up right - there is no plug and play set up. Because everyone's track is different, driving style different, "feel" for what they want is different. So its an experiment to find the right set up for your needs.

Thanks. I really appreciate your insight and explanation. So, both settings are cumulative, which is what I figured. Guess I'll have to play with it. Good thing I have a week and a half till our next local race :)

Ivegotklas 05-08-2013 10:03 AM

[QUOTE=nikos2002;12129493]Ivegotklas- if you follow the links on our site it will give you more details about the trade in program.

I noticed it said "Same Product Line" So I couldn't trade in a vtx10 and get a vtx10r for $120? I would be stuck getting the vtx10 at $95. Thats fine just wondering.

OMG23RC 05-08-2013 04:56 PM

Yes i have vents in my body but most other people dont have vents and their bodies and they aren't overheating. They are using different esc and motors though. I have stock timing on the motor and none on esc. But i just dont get why its running so warm. its not even fast compared to other motors. races are 6 minutes. I'm very happy with all my escs from viper but currently im not really liking the motors...
running a55

nikos2002 05-08-2013 05:24 PM

OMG - its a hard question to answer not being at the track. Things that can effect the temperature include: drivetrain, how hard you apply the throttle, wheelspin, traction, track length, brakes, gearing, air temp, set up, esc set up, motor, battery -- its a combination.

Last time I ran 4wd with my TQ 4wd car, I ran 82/21 with a 7.5 motor, Throttle Freq - 12000, Punch - 75, Forward Power - 95. For me, the track I was on, it was too much power, so I had to baby the throttle - didn't generate much heat. Another driver on a different track running a B44.1 ran similar set up, his track was much higher traction, he was very hard on throttle and brakes - he would just finish a 5 minute qualifier and when he stopped on the track to pick up his car, it would trip the thermal cut off.

So my point is that there are many variables. If you want to send me a PM with more detail of your esc settings, would be glad to try and look at the to see if anything stands out.

nikos2002 05-08-2013 05:25 PM

Ivegotklas - generally the process is done to replace damaged units in the warranty process, contact the home office to verify details for what you are trying to do.

tony montana 05-08-2013 06:20 PM

Question for a buddy of mine, he runs a losi scte with the vtx8 and I think a novak 4.5 550. He just bought the vtx8, he was telling me he thought he needed to update the vtx8 since its on 2s? Is this true?

nikos2002 05-08-2013 09:22 PM

tony - depends on when he bought it. have him check, if its a61 software that is the updated version. we had to update it because of issues with a certain brand of motor. but good news what it made us focus on some other cool things. Now we can even run that motor, at a higher Punch level than its own company recommends for its speed control- i.e. more power!! But have it check it, because majority that have been sold already had the update.

sapperc 05-08-2013 10:39 PM

Got a question about ESC external temperature. I understand that the ESC sensor takes an internal reading of the core which is safe to 220 degrees F before the default thermal shutdown kicks in. So, with that in mind, what is the safe high end temperature reading taken with a IR temperature gauge taken on the exterior of the VTX10R BE?

nikos2002 05-08-2013 10:55 PM

150* is a good ball park.

boostem 05-09-2013 06:54 AM

Yesterday I was running my truck and I think my speed control overheated. Either all or two lights were flashing on the V-port. After taking it in I immediately checked the battery, one cell was at 3.4v, the other cell was at 3.54v and when I touched the heatsink it was not very hot, so something seemed off. Truck is on a 2s lithium batt. geared 14/54 on 2.8" tires. At the time, I was running on golf course like terrain.

What can be damaged from an overheating controller? If it shuts off as a preventative measure to prevent damage, should I even worry about it?

Also, I purchased a 3s lithium batt. to run but Im not sure which motor I would use. The viper 3800kv 540 can or 5100kv 550 can

Thanks in advance!

godofcable 05-09-2013 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by boostem (Post 12133342)
Yesterday I was running my truck and I think my speed control overheated. Either all or two lights were flashing on the V-port. After taking it in I immediately checked the battery, one cell was at 3.4v, the other cell was at 3.54v and when I touched the heatsink it was not very hot, so something seemed off. Truck is on a 2s lithium batt. geared 14/54 on 2.8" tires. At the time, I was running on golf course like terrain.

What can be damaged from an overheating controller? If it shuts off as a preventative measure to prevent damage, should I even worry about it?

Also, I purchased a 3s lithium batt. to run but Im not sure which motor I would use. The viper 3800kv 540 can or 5100kv 550 can

Thanks in advance!

sounds more like voltage was dipping down below the limit on one of the cells

boostem 05-09-2013 07:33 AM


Originally Posted by godofcable (Post 12133353)
sounds more like voltage was dipping down below the limit on one of the cells

Possibly, but that doesn't explain the flashing V-port lights or power cutoff by the controller.

mulepic 05-09-2013 07:37 AM


Originally Posted by boostem (Post 12133512)
Possibly, but that doesn't explain the flashing V-port lights or power cutoff by the controller.

I have noticed the Vipers are very sensitive to low voltage. This can come either from the battery being undercharged (which looks like your case) or poor quality batteries. So just because you measure sufficient voltage, under load it could be dropping off sharply and that will cause the esc to stop or not function properly.


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