Originally Posted by boostem (Post 12133512)

Possibly, but that doesn't explain the flashing V-port lights or power cutoff by the controller.

Originally Posted by boostem (Post 12133887)

the copperhead-r

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12134183)

3S Li-Po w/ 550 class: KV≤4000 for the "R"
3S Li-Po w/ 540 class: KV ≤ 4000 for the NON "R"
so in either case, you will want the 3800kv 540 viper

Originally Posted by godofcable

did you have a solid N light, and F-R were flashing? that would mean esc overheat

Originally Posted by boostem (Post 12134291)

Thanks wildcat, that's what I was thinking because at that high of a KV, 3s batts wouldn't work well.



Yeah I saw that the lights were flashing. I didn't not notice if the N light off, on or flashing at all. If it happens today i'll be sure to take in all the details.

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12128749)

Look at it as two different settings. Boost gets you going its - the kick it the but to get you off the line and start the acceleration process. The top speed is the extra timing from when you kit that rpm point you designated earlier. Added in the Slew Rate - which is how hard the process gets kicked in the but.

Now if you make it too aggressive with a higher rpm motor -- it will start to act erratic -- which is probably what LosiPRACER is seeing in the Open Mode, because his profile probably has a good bit of Timing, and Slew Rate involved.

Many people hear boost and automatically think it has to be maximum setting to go the fastest. And that is not true. What you are trying to do is aid the natural acceleration you would get from the motor and the gear ratio. You never really want to run 30º timing or anything higher than 4 slew rate under most circumstances. You want to set it to give yourself that extra push.

Its a process to really set it up right - there is no plug and play set up. Because everyone's track is different, driving style different, "feel" for what they want is different. So its an experiment to find the right set up for your needs.

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12135467)

Steve - that's actually a very good representation of how it would look on graph. I was talking with some drivers today to try and find better ways to explain it, but thats actually a really good way to explain.

Technically Slew Rate does have a value, you were correct it was actually another variable in the old software, but we tried to simplify it in a55 because we felt it put the level of complications over the top - its easier to say 1-10 and leave the other settings to be complicated.

Thanks for the questions and the interest, the boost settings are ones that really have gone un-noticed by many but can make so much of a difference.

I was talking to a team driver today who added 15º of boost to a 1500kv 1/8 motor and was able to keep up with guys running 1900kv and 2100kv - so its not about putting in the highest levels is getting the right amount added.

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12135475)

Boostem - it does sound a bit like a low voltage or weak cell issue. Its becoming more common with these high amp draw 4 pole motors we all crave. But also if the lights are flashing it did detect a temp overload, depending on the lights would show which one, reference the manual to get a better idea. And remember, internal temperatures of the esc can be higher than what you read on the case where the fan is blowing.

Originally Posted by nikos2002

Boostem- one more note I saw the 3s question. We really only recommend the R39 motor with 3s, and probably need to gear down to handle the extra power. When ever trying 3s over 2s you have to be careful and watch the heat build up.

Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12135467)

...Technically Slew Rate does have a value, you were correct it was actually another variable in the old software, but we tried to simplify it in a55 because we felt it put the level of complications over the top - its easier to say 1-10 and leave the other settings to be complicated...