tony - a55 is latest, greatest

boborc - the caps will help a little - there is a big difference between 2 pole/4 pole. The caps wont make that up completely, but it will help slightly. It really depends on your driving style, track layout, and size. Some places 2 pole can run with 4 pole. Some places - no chance. They are just too different.

Duck - since the Copperhead is not sensored, sometimes after a big tumble it takes 2-3 seconds to figure out the firing pattern to run again. If it is completely shutting down and restarting - takes like 10-15 seconds, might be a loose connection, or amp spike causing low voltage cut off.

would you recommend the pro 6 or 9. I'm not looking for too much more with the 2 pole and at this particular track it might be the set-up because I can gain a lot in the infield rather than spinning my wheels "pun intended".

Still having issues
 

Calibrated 3 times. F- Red Light 2 beeps R- Orange Light 2 beeps N- Solid Green then resets.
Motor disconnected same. I tore it out of the MIP. Im sending it in connected to each other. It has the extra long wires to reach on the MIP chassis and the SCTE 2.0. I hope it all comes back the same. Sucks it leaves me out for LCRC Halloween. Unless it comes back by friday. Gonna try to borrow a system for this Saturday.

boborc - normally we use Pro6 in 1/10, Pro9 in 1/8 - although Travis did test with the Pro9 in his 4wd buggy at the Worlds.

spider - hate to see anyone have an issue, quicker we get it we can look at it and return it. Meaning, if you want it back quicker, think about that when you ship it to us. Because sometimes, that is the longest part.

Is it true that you are not supposed to extend the wires on the capacitors or can you? As everyone knows not much space in a sc10 4x4 with a vtx8 locating the capacitor may be a little complicated for something so simple

boborc: bit surprised you are looking to run a cap on the VTX8 with the sc10 4x4?

You don't want to extend the wires of the cap - it will lose its efficiency and not really react as intended. Shorter is ok, longer is not.

Ok, so our current indoor clay layout has a jump with a short run-up that I cannot clear. This is in Stock (blinky) SC class. There are others that can clear it everytime. I run the VTX10-BE with a Trinity D3.5 motor in my SC10. There are several guys that can clear it but I talked with 2 of them in detail, to try out their gearing and motor timing. Both of the guys actually run Orion R10 Pros but one runs the Fantom version of the D3.5, and the other one runs the D3.5. So the main difference is the ESC. Oddly they are both at opposite ends, One guy runs zero motor timing and a gearing of 75/29 and the other runs full 40* motor timing and gearing of 81/20. They couldn't help me on ESC settings. The guy running the Fantom came over and set my ball diff like his and checked over my basic setup and it was nearly identical to his short of the tires, so I switched to his tires with no improvement. I could not find a combination that worked, the fastest lap times that I was getting were with zero endbell timing and 75/28 gearing. The other difference was that they both run 90C Orion 2s lipos and I run the Nanotech 60c-120c lipos. During practice after racing, I tried combinations of endbell timing and gearing to all extremes with no luck. Even with zero timing and 87/19 I could not make the jump.

I feel that I am maybe missing a setting in the VTX10-BE that is limiting the performance. Here are the settings that I can remember:

Firmware A32
Brake 92% / EXP-2
Drag Brake = 7%

Throttle PWM 9600hz
Throttle Punch 90%
Throttle Curve EXP -3
Deadband Middle

Motor Power = Disabled

MISC
Forward = 100%

Running my current settings, I can get through the infield and down the main straight evenly, but the jump kills me. Any help would be appreciated. I am also looking to replace the motor before the end of 2014/Q1 (officially removed from ROAR).

have you tried there batteries in your vehicle?

A few dumb questions:
Did either of them try your truck? Or have you tried their trucks?
You haven't cooked your motor previously?
Is it wheelspinning at all on the leadup?
I'd also try the batteries as mentioned...

Why is that I can turn on my VTX10,, but cannot turn it off by pressing the button? I was able to turn it off like usual.

Is the lights kind of dancing when you try to turn it off?

I noticed that on my VTX8 with my radio if I get some kind of drift at neutral, I can't shut it off. Its like it thinks its getting a signal from the radio. You can try giving either a bit of throttle or brake to get it to "neutral" and then shutoff. Or, just pull the plug is what I did.

I did not try their batteries in my truck. I should have asked. I also haven't tried their trucks and they didn't drive my truck. I had thought about it but watched their lines during practice and they didn't need to use the full run up to make it.

I did get the motor hot one night when we had open class so I turned on boost for one race. It was 95 degrees in the building, my motor hit 175* after the first qual, so I turned off boost. Normally it is in the 150's after each round. I don't think this cooked it though.

I was struggling with wheelspin a little and switching to the other tires fixed that but not enough to make the jump.

Next time I will ask to drive their trucks or borrow batteries. I hate doing that but it is frustrating trying extreme's of endbell timing and gearing with no change in performance. Maybe the motor is dead on the lowend.

90C is a pretty big difference from 60C. I would be interested to hear if you were able to clear the double with one of their 90C packs. I would also agree that you should let one of them wheel your truck and see if they can clear the jump. Maybe they have a little different line that lets them carry more speed to the jump.

If you are having problems turning off the ESC try turning your radio off first.

I know it is not their line because I would actually go as wide as possible and get a better run up and not clear it. I could hang with them throughout the rest of the track and matched speed down the straight. I qualled 4th overall with one of the top qualifiers running a mod motor because they only had 2 show up. I actually out qualed the other guy running a mod motor. Unfortunately I lost a front tire during the A1 main but was solidly in 3rd up to that point. Even the A2 main I was in 3rd up until a minute to go and one of the Mod guys got around me and I could catch him up until the "Jump" and then he would pull about a second in front, I would catch him again and lose it on the jump. It was like this for the last 4 laps and I finished 4th.

So my ESC settings seem fine then? and it is probably battery or motor. Maybe I will escalate my time table of getting a new motor then.