oh silly me forgot to put the sensor wire lol working now..forgot about that..long day at work brain is all fried up and bonkers...thanks

dont know what cause the capacitor to explode but now i wrap it in shink tube just in case..that cap blew off and could of wack me in the eye..man that was a loud pop when it blew rang my ear for a min..dont know what happen must of got some sort of spike or bridge on the board or something for a sec..its all good and working now

Any idea what kind of improvements we will see over the VST standard motors besides just the internal fan? Im kind of a tech guru and ive been weighing out the pros and cons of going with a better brand sensored motor over a cheap sensorless motor, even though the cheapy tacons have worked so well for me in basically every application.

I have a friend I brought into rc racing and picked up a B4.1 with a Viper VTX10R and VST 13.5, Savox 1258, Airtonics M11 2.4, and 40c lipos. Went through the whole buggy and he's been racing it and loving it. But here is the problem, on hard impacts it cuts out and just has steering. Then it has to be turned on and off to resume racing. On/off flashes when this happens. Everything is in perfect condition. I dont own a Viper esc and dont know anyone with the same issue. Is this a simple fix? Sensor wire is fine and sensor board is fine. Nothing loose and solder connections fine. I searched and found answers ranging from sensor cable to low temp cut-off. Temp cut is at 200/200. Its never temped above 150 on either. It doesnt matter if its the beginning or end of a race, a big hit will cut out drive power.

A mate had the same problem i checked and re-soldered the battery leads and plugs and have not had an issue since.

Can I run a 3S or 4S with my viper copperhead esc and 5150KV???

spider -NO!! on 3s we have only rated the R39 motor - anything higher is just too much to handle!!!!

nismomike - always check any plugs - hard landings can do strange things to these vehicles (any scale). Also when it shuts off are the switch lights blinking? 200 on the motor cut off is kinda low even for 2wd - I normally start at 220. Remember its reading internal temp, not on the can like we do with a temp gun. Its a little hotter in there. Also check to see that plug in the receiver isn't loose - stranger things have happen. BTW, if the neutral light (green) is blinking when it turn on - it means the radio signal has changed neutral at it can't find it. turn throttle trim up 2-3 clicks and re-calibrate.

iMarky - glad it was something simple. Once had a hobby shop owner on the phone who swore up and down everything was soldered in and the motor still didn't work - I asked him to touch the solder joints for me one time with the iron just for giggles. he did it and it immediately worked. You never know.

Spawne- don't you always want to I prove everything! The VST series is torque based, so one of the check box's is more rpm, for a little better on road performance. BTW- VST won 2011 ROAR National Championships in 2wd Stock class.

had a problem with a vtx10r the esc everytime that it was ran ran hot no matter what setup i tried setups off the forum off the setup sheet even a team drivers setup well the last time i ran it it got hot enough it blew the caps off the esc and shut off i need to know what i need to do to send it in for rma repair ?????????

Blargh. New version and I just bought a pair of VTX10Rs on monday...

How much smaller is the new black edition footprint? And will this new Vlink software support the normal vtx's?

Ok, I have a VTX10R that I just got back from service after being DOA when I purchased it. I installed it in my Durango 4x with a Tekin PRO4 4000 geared conservatively. I set up a new profile on my M11x so EPA was default (100/100). The issue I have is when you go full throttle, the truck turns off and as soon as you let off the truck is fine. It doesnt have to reset or anything. If you roll into the throttle slowly it is fine. I can even hold the truck down and roll the throttle on until it wants to jump out of my hands and it is fine. It will NOT run if I pinch the throttle too fast.

I tried 4 sets of saddles, re-binding my radio, setting endpoints over and over again. I turned off the motor temp cutt off, esc temp cut off, and set all other settings as recommended on this thread.

I am really starting to regret buying this esc. I have now been without my truck for over 2 weeks now. Any suggestions? Anyone have this situation? I hope it is something I am doing wrong. Thanks.

Jake

Kinda sounds like yOu need to run a glitch buster

Sorry, I forgot to mention that was the first thing I tried.

I had the same problem with a 4600 tekin. Tried all different punch settings and even put an external bec on it. Never got it to run right with that motor.

You have to check with Tekin for their speed control requirements for those particular motors, they have a different specification for speed controls than standard 2 pole motors, by their design. Not to do with ours.

Footprint is essentially the same, difference is in height. And a version of VLink will be available for standard VTX - look for more info going public on VLink shortly.