edited..

In the end it is a much nicer crankshaft then what is in a P5 !

ya you get it, not just cosmetic

damn skippy! Neal here is my track. can you provide me with your best modified buggy engine suggestions for this kind of layout? I really want the modified elite 8 wat do you think for this track?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6vtk5yYJ54

you two do realize that the wear surfaces on that crank are still bare metal right ?......the coating is only on the face of the counterweight in a place that see's no friction or wear...At the most it provides protection from rust... definitely no aid in fuel flow or wear protection...The two places that could use some sort of wear coating are the crankpin and the 7mm shaft where the clutchbell bearings ride and in this case these 2 spots are still just bare steel....

Ya I know the 2 spots you refer to and you are right about those 2 areas. Its more about operational aid but who knows I sure cant prove that to be true or false, just theories. Ill take your word for it. You never responded to the more important question prior!! buggy engine/exhaust combo suggestions for my track? I really like the elite 8 wat ya think?
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...%3Dh6vtk5yYJ54

Has anyone ever used the revenge .21 model? I just won one at a rave this weekend and I wanna put it in a truggy I just built... Didn't see any reviews on it so I'm just curious if anyone here used one.

There's been very little talk on it to be honest. In the upper right hand side of this thread, click, "search in this thread" and type in Revenge.

A guy I know has one he won as well. He's put a gallon through it, and it's an excellent introductory motor for a buggy. No clue how it'd do in a truggy though. Gets decent run time, and is a budget minded 3 port motor.

That motor seems to be the handout motor for a Door Prize this year...:lol:

Region 2 has given away 5 I think. Not a bad door prize, but understand they are given away for free. So don't be expecting a Mito or Virtus;)

Its a 3 port motor ( like what was said above), ABC liner, basic internals, steel bearings and a very mellow curve. Almost perfect for a buggy as the power doesn't really kick in until the early 20K RPMs. Fuel mileage is very good being its a 3 port motor, and its the standard 8mm plastic carb like what is on P5 mills. That's all the info I found. It took me a couple good hours to find all this.

Have you had a chance to do the dyno test of the Top Elite 8 with the different pipes? I just picked up a stock Elite 8 and would like to see which pipe combo works best for buggy. Thanks.

Look on his TNS thread. I believe he said the 53 and 86 series were really good.

So.. I'm not sure if this has been talked about here or not...there are way too many pages to go through here so here goes....

I have a Novarossi P5XLT with a 41021 manifold and 2096 pipe. It is in a Hotbodies D812 buggy. Engine has MAYBE 2 gallons run through it...broken in correctly as well.

My question is this... My running temp after a 7 minute race is about 250 Degrees. This is with the hsn 1/2 turn out from flush and the lsn 1/2 turn in from flush. The engine idles fine and sounds/looks fine. My question is..is this right? I read everywhere that everyones engine runs at 190 degrees "all day long" and I simply can't see running any richer...I can only get 8 minutes out of a tank MAX. Compression cold is great...cannot turn it over by hand... when it's 250 degrees though...it's pretty easy to turn over.

Can someone shed a little light on this for me? what could be going on here?

250 is just fine. 190 is not - the mechanical pinch will eat a motor alive at 190, which is why it's advised to preheat to at least 200.

Short answer.... Nothing wrong is going on here.

Long answer..... Temps are temps are temps. There is no magic temp that every motor runs best at. I got Novas that run from 210 to 260, I got an Alpha that wont get out of its own way until 270, had an OS that ran perfect at 200. Your tempeture is just a tool to help you verify your tune is in the OK realm. With that being said, if you motor is running great at 210, then leave it at 210. If it runs good at 260, then run it at 260. Temp has a lot to do with a lot of different things. Air, Humidity, outside air temp, nitro %.... You can easily run 20-30 degrees cooler by switching from 30% to 20% nitro. You can also go up 30 degrees if the humidity goes from 80% to 50% in a race day. Outside air temp is another thing. If its 100 degrees outside, don't expect your motor to run too cool. If its 50 out, don't expect it to get too hot.

All this has an effect on temps. But you should only use it as a tool. Like a screwdriver. The main thing you need to be concerned about is, a good steady smoke trail from the exhaust at just above idle to wide open down the straight, and the performance of the engine. If you hit the gas and it bogs, you are too lean. If it sounds like its drowning, you are too rich. If its feels good, has good power and good smoke trails, then check your temp. It will confirm that your tune is spot on or close to it. You may need to go an hour in one direction or another on one or both needles. If and when you make that adjustment, check again for performance and smoke. Then verify with your temp.

Good rule of thumb for temps....200-300. That's a very large window. Even the koolaid guy can get in without breaking thru the wall.

Good luck.

BTW, I have a Modded P5, run 30% nitro. On a hot and humid day, she runs great at 260-270...when its cold, 220-230. I have a very heavy finger ( probably why I cant drive 2wd buggy too well) and an aggressive clutch set up. I get just over 9 minutes on a tank.

Thanks guys. You've been the most helpful I've seen on these forums!

x100,000 :tire: