Anyone got experience on the Clio P5 yet? I'm in the same boat as my old mate here (Except I'm talking Truggy :sneaky:) Have currently been running a Ninja, but am contemplating a Bonito or Clio for my new MBX7T, Any thoughts?

Updated p5xlt , great engine , little more timing induction on the crank , cnc piston from barstock as opposed to microcast and new ultra low head

great engine and a bit of a price increase over p5xlt

well
 

On the a Main details of the clio it mentioned booster ports. I wonder if that is true or a typo.

•Sleeve: The sleeve has 5 transfer ports, and an exhaust with booster ports to deliver linear power and keep fuel consumption low.

R7 rods
 

Why whats with the 13 rod

The 2 rods I had were 13,s One split and snapped less then 2GL

The other I found yesterday in last seasons Back-up That one was split

but did not break Caught it in time ;) 1 1/2 GL

All 13 rods :confused::confused:

Where did u see that? I just looked at www.novarossi.it and exploded view shows same part# for the 5 port p/s set with 06002 "team" cnc piston sooooo not sure where you seen that

Anyway 08036b is whats in it

What's the verdict on the new 3 needle carb? Short or long LSN?

A Main
 

Like I said on A Main in the description. I thought it was a typo.

It looks in the change the p/s from 08036 to the 08036B with the bypass ports.

No doubt, just wonder if it's gonna have enough, coming from a Ninja, or maybe I should just go the Bonito :confused:

Myself I would go with the bonito in truggy, great usable power. Ive really enjoyed mine in truggy, never a flame out.

I lost my Roma conrod at PNB last week. Had less than a gallon on it. Never even ran hot. I'm thinking maybe the violent jumps and jolts to the driveshaft did it in. Now the crank pin has a a few marks(not too bad, but you can feel it with a fingernail) on it. I was wondering if it could be fixed or if anybody could get me a good deal on a crank and rod? It needs a new front bearing too. I have access to a new P5 for $150, so I can't bring myself to spend a ton on parts to fix this one.

Thats crappy to hear you lost your new engine....heck Roma's are soo tight that they don't even breakin for well over a gallon....

What fuel do you use ?

How did you break that engine in ?

You should measure the crankpin to see if its worn or out of round.....

Rod # up by piston
 

Curious to know

What # was stamped on rod up by piston I,v had several R7 rods break

And I,m doing a survey :D:D\

Was it

11
13
or 14

thanks

john b

As far as rods, again its all about how the engine was broken in and maintained. I ran a '13 rod in my +4 for over 7 gallons and its still good for a back up. And my +4 always ran warm 270* to 280* for over 8 gallons before I decided to pinch it as maintanece. Thes engines are ment to run at a higher temp, lower temps increase the interferance fit and thats when rods start to go and excessive wear comes into play.

well I think rods splitting up the middle are more related to the fuel being used and how the engine was tuned and run then anything else... When a rod splits it means the rod bushing has spun inside the rod,which means there was enough heat and friction between the rod bushing and the crankpin to break the bushing loose inside the rod, which is no small feat.... To me this is more of a lubrication issue then it is a bad rod issue...run a engine hot and lean at 40 000 RPM using cheap fuels with low oil and this is the types of issues your going to see...... As you can imagine I work on many engines and more and more I am seeing a larger number of engines with badly worn crankpins..Engines that only have 3 gallons of fuel thru them are already showing 0.002" or worse out of round...With very distinct heat and friction markings from the bushing....

I wont argue that some rods are not stronger then others, as the new 14 rods are definitely stronger then the 13 rods.........But when i see a split rod its a clear indication of a spun bushing, and spinning a bushing means there was a substantial amount of heat and friction present so I would blame the fuel and the tune much sooner then I would blame a faulty rod......

Cars are becoming faster and faster, engines are being spun harder and faster then ever before, and because of this we will start seeing more and more fuel related wear issues....