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I want to pull the rear bearing out of my Keep Off to check it out. I have the Hudy bearing tool. I have not done a Nova with this new bearing. What do I need to know and what do to need to do the job. I have not disassembled the engine yet. Any help greatly appreciated.:sweat:
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Originally Posted by CHOAS
(Post 14118392)
I want to pull the rear bearing out of my Keep Off to check it out. I have the Hudy bearing tool. I have not done a Nova with this new bearing. What do I need to know and what do to need to do the job. I have not disassembled the engine yet. Any help greatly appreciated.:sweat:
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All you need to do is locate the puller slightly futher back so it grabs the bearing and it comes out no problem
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Originally Posted by cczjordan
(Post 14118586)
I'm interested to know also 25.8mm inner diameter right?
Id x od x width |
Originally Posted by kbrunsden
(Post 14118898)
All you need to do is locate the puller slightly futher back so it grabs the bearing and it comes out no problem
Also, sometimes I like to hit the block with a heat gun for a few seconds first... usually they glide right out with very little force if you do so. |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 14119177)
I believe keep off 7 is 14.5x26x6mm
Id x od x width |
Originally Posted by CHOAS
(Post 14119970)
Yes I have the Keep Off 7 Ceramic. So I use the 14.5 watchacallit and its all good?:sweat:
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Originally Posted by hambone
(Post 14120223)
Keep Off takes a special bearing. The bonito rear bearing won't work Ed.
Yes the inner race on the back side of the bearing is stepped in on keep off line and most likely the mito line The block matches this step so you must purchase novarossi bearing to replace Hope this helps |
Tko makes a replacement bearing with the thinner inner race.
Rex |
Originally Posted by Jerm13
(Post 14115267)
Short answer.... Nothing wrong is going on here.
Long answer..... Temps are temps are temps. There is no magic temp that every motor runs best at. I got Novas that run from 210 to 260, I got an Alpha that wont get out of its own way until 270, had an OS that ran perfect at 200. Your tempeture is just a tool to help you verify your tune is in the OK realm. With that being said, if you motor is running great at 210, then leave it at 210. If it runs good at 260, then run it at 260. Temp has a lot to do with a lot of different things. Air, Humidity, outside air temp, nitro %.... You can easily run 20-30 degrees cooler by switching from 30% to 20% nitro. You can also go up 30 degrees if the humidity goes from 80% to 50% in a race day. Outside air temp is another thing. If its 100 degrees outside, don't expect your motor to run too cool. If its 50 out, don't expect it to get too hot. All this has an effect on temps. But you should only use it as a tool. Like a screwdriver. The main thing you need to be concerned about is, a good steady smoke trail from the exhaust at just above idle to wide open down the straight, and the performance of the engine. If you hit the gas and it bogs, you are too lean. If it sounds like its drowning, you are too rich. If its feels good, has good power and good smoke trails, then check your temp. It will confirm that your tune is spot on or close to it. You may need to go an hour in one direction or another on one or both needles. If and when you make that adjustment, check again for performance and smoke. Then verify with your temp. Good rule of thumb for temps....200-300. That's a very large window. Even the koolaid guy can get in without breaking thru the wall. Good luck. BTW, I have a Modded P5, run 30% nitro. On a hot and humid day, she runs great at 260-270...when its cold, 220-230. I have a very heavy finger ( probably why I cant drive 2wd buggy too well) and an aggressive clutch set up. I get just over 9 minutes on a tank. On a side note, I just blew my up my modded P5xlt/werks 2058 combo this past weekend!! Very sad...but did get 13+gallons out of her !! She'll be missed!! Lol. |
Originally Posted by rage1945
(Post 14120879)
I agree with you. Just a number!
On a side note, I just blew my up my modded P5xlt/werks 2058 combo this past weekend!! Very sad...but did get 13+gallons out of her !! She'll be missed!! Lol. It a mix of emotions when that happens. Sad cuz she's gone, but happy cuz you got a legit excuse to get a new mil and always exciting to see what the carnage was! If I get 10 out of any motor, Im happy. I figure $300 in fuel is a good trade off! |
hi guys after the correct shimming for a novarossi roma .25 engine.
atm it only has .5 total. i think standard is .8 and the engine should have a .1 optional shim. may i ask what the total shimming is for 30% nitro fuel |
Originally Posted by geforce
(Post 14121366)
hi guys after the correct shimming for a novarossi roma .25 engine.
atm it only has .5 total. i think standard is .8 and the engine should have a .1 optional shim. may i ask what the total shimming is for 30% nitro fuel .30 and one .20 for a total .80. Almost all Novas come from factory for 25% Nitro. Running 30% with that shimming is ok. No extra shim came on the box. |
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 14120722)
Tko makes a replacement bearing with the thinner inner race.
Rex |
Originally Posted by sn47som1
(Post 14067994)
Been running the new ODonnell V2 plugs (#288T medium) for 2.5 months now and couldn't be happier- still on the same plug, hasn't flamed, broken or acted funny yet. Its very consistent and helps to provide tons of power!
Been running the 288t also for close to a gallon and it still looks shiny and new. I seem to be getting a little better tune compared to the c6tgc as well... although to be fair I can't say for sure about the tune since my engine wasn't 100% broken in last time I ran the c6. |
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