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Old 06-07-2012 | 09:54 AM
  #3046  
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
Seams like from the Plus 4 family?
It's a square stroke... So I would venture to WS73 I think
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Old 06-07-2012 | 11:09 AM
  #3047  
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What does square stroke mean?


Originally Posted by kgombe
It's a square stroke... So I would venture to WS73 I think
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Old 06-07-2012 | 11:15 AM
  #3048  
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Originally Posted by elkapitan
What does square stroke mean?
square stroke means the bore and stroke are the same number, in this case 16.42mm bore X 16.42mm stroke (ie 16.42X16.42 or 16.42 squared)

the RB S7s and S9s(also "Worlds" editions), along with a few others were all square stroke.

the newer RBs are all long stroke, 16.22mm bore X 16.80mm stroke
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Old 06-07-2012 | 11:34 AM
  #3049  
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
the 41021 and 41020 work just fine on the Mugen Truggy as well
I've heard that, but I tried the 41021, and it was hitting the side pod....might have to give it another look.
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Old 06-07-2012 | 11:43 AM
  #3050  
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
I've heard that, but I tried the 41021, and it was hitting the side pod....might have to give it another look.
Then you should go with 41029. That's actually called "the Mugen" header . It's similar in lenght with 41021 but has a smaller bend. 41020 is longer than the two.
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Old 06-07-2012 | 11:44 AM
  #3051  
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
I've heard that, but I tried the 41021, and it was hitting the side pod....might have to give it another look.
side pod? i have a 41020 with a 9901 on my Toro Nero and hav no problems with fitment
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Old 06-07-2012 | 12:00 PM
  #3052  
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I bought a Novarossi Plus4 Team C with a brand new piston and sleeve. Can someone please recommend starting needle settings and idle gap when I start the break in process again. Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2012 | 12:13 PM
  #3053  
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Originally Posted by nougat
I bought a Novarossi Plus4 Team C with a brand new piston and sleeve. Can someone please recommend starting needle settings and idle gap when I start the break in process again. Thanks.

.6mm idle gap, 3.5 from closed on the top, 5 from closed on the bottom. be sure to remove the venturi when you set the idle gap
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Old 06-07-2012 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
.6mm idle gap, 3.5 from closed on the top, 5 from closed on the bottom. be sure to remove the venturi when you set the idle gap
maybe a little richer and about .8 idle gap for break in , make sure you preheat !!!!!!!! keep temps in the 200° range and be nice to it , remember idling an engine for days is not really a break in
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Old 06-07-2012 | 01:00 PM
  #3055  
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Originally Posted by nougat
I bought a Novarossi Plus4 Team C with a brand new piston and sleeve. Can someone please recommend starting needle settings and idle gap when I start the break in process again. Thanks.
when you start to drive it around, be nice and smooth on the trigger, no full pulls for about 6 tanks of driving. Don't let it gain to many rpms. After about tank 8 you can ease into full throttle but only for a second. Make sure it stays between 200 and 210.
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Old 06-07-2012 | 01:57 PM
  #3056  
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Thanks all!
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Old 06-07-2012 | 02:11 PM
  #3057  
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What's the plug for a Toro Nero please, its a standard not a turbo plug.

Thanks

Ross
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Old 06-07-2012 | 02:18 PM
  #3058  
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I would say C6G. It's what I've run in most my Nova Rossi with a std head button.

http://www.novarossi.it/eng/products...x.php?plug=ssu
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Old 06-07-2012 | 02:27 PM
  #3059  
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Can anyone tell me if there are any issues with grinding away the front of the engine mount tabs? Just need to take a bit out to run the engine forward in my JQ buggy and want to be sure before I attack it with a dremmel.
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Old 06-07-2012 | 02:30 PM
  #3060  
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No you should be good- just be sure to leave some material around the front of the holes, if not it can crack while tightening the screws or running.
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