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Old 04-19-2012 | 08:04 AM
  #2611  
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Thanks for all of the input, I'll check everything that was suggested.

Another thing....I just remembered that before I ran it last, there was a little after run oil leaking out of the bearing. I don't have much nitro experience but that seems like it shouldn't happen???

I bought this engine new and did the heat cycle break-in method as described in the 'bible'. It only has about 1 gallon on it....
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Old 04-19-2012 | 08:11 AM
  #2612  
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Originally Posted by Diff Balls
Thanks for all of the input, I'll check everything that was suggested.

Another thing....I just remembered that before I ran it last, there was a little after run oil leaking out of the bearing. I don't have much nitro experience but that seems like it shouldn't happen???

I bought this engine new and did the heat cycle break-in method as described in the 'bible'. It only has about 1 gallon on it....
i would look at what front bearing you have on that engine... then let us know...
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Old 04-19-2012 | 08:15 AM
  #2613  
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Originally Posted by Diff Balls
Thanks for all of the input, I'll check everything that was suggested.

Another thing....I just remembered that before I ran it last, there was a little after run oil leaking out of the bearing. I don't have much nitro experience but that seems like it shouldn't happen???

I bought this engine new and did the heat cycle break-in method as described in the 'bible'. It only has about 1 gallon on it....
This will happen with new engines because of the rich fuel mixture used during break-in, mainly a rich LSN.
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Old 04-19-2012 | 08:20 AM
  #2614  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
if a engine has a good dose of leftover castor oil inside the comp heat can bake that oil into a varnish .... I have seen it happen quite often with some fuels, however I have yet to see it happen with Byrons.....

I would consider the possibility of a mechanical issue, and would recommend doing some part swapping to see if you can isolate where the issue may be..Providing you have the parts resource to do so......You could have a cracked case, bad bearing, bad carb etc..... Fortunately there are not too many parts to these engines so its not a hard process to isolate where the issue is coming from.....

Thanks Neal, I have been leaning toward mechanical issue too. The motor has not hit any big jumps and is no where near race trim do you never know but probably not cracked case. I have been babying it so to speak waiting for this thing to drop and make some power. I have inspected and case looks good, front bearing seems to be doing ok with no fuel leaking out of it. I thought about pulling the carb off the P5 since it runs so good and throwing it on just to see if it makes a difference and the carb is sucking air? I will play around with it some more. I am going to completely tear it down tonight I think.......
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Old 04-19-2012 | 08:25 AM
  #2615  
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Originally Posted by kgombe
i would look at what front bearing you have on that engine... then let us know...
It would be the stock bearing....
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Old 04-19-2012 | 04:40 PM
  #2616  
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I have noticed a few guy always have questerns reguarding break in all the time and they read the bible and still have issues

id just like to point out what i have learned for my self,our weather in australia is diffrent here manily realy warm and dry in summer.

if you dont heat the engine up prior to run in you can damage the rod it will stretch the big end

secondly i think too much theiory around how much juice to run through engines is stuffing peolole up

I run half a tank starter on box just anough to bring it up to temp then shut down arfter all shut downs i put piston btc

i then do this for another tank,then i fill tank up put on ground by this time i make sure my needles are close but 12 hrs out on lsn and then about 2 turns out on hsn then run it around i usualy do 5 tanks but each tank i lean 2 hrns on hsn

i then wack my car on the track basicly run like normal slowley leaning of hsn 2 hrs every tank till i get about 1tr on the engine(but dont over rev it) you will slowley will see the engine making more power as it gets loseer

I then give it full tune but what i do is when i get it right i back of the tune so its still a bit rich till i get some more fuel a race like this for a club day, then the next meet i run it a bit learner every time till im happy this actully takes the longest as
you wont it perfect and free before you realy lean it of,by rich i dont mean tune it up so its slow i mean i little rich but not on its proper race tune

thats how i run in my motors never had a issue yet one btta has 12 litres so far the other has 7 and my os has 27 on it these are my current engines ive been using since i was showin it ten years ago

oh use a new plug when you start to lean it of lol

Last edited by psr; 04-19-2012 at 04:48 PM. Reason: im a gumpy
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Old 04-20-2012 | 08:09 PM
  #2617  
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Just a question...... What do you consider a good tune setting? In other words, how do you know that you are 2 turns out??

Just wondering because I am just starting to break one in now and don't know how to tune without hearing the top end.... Keeping the revs low right now ;-)
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Old 04-20-2012 | 08:28 PM
  #2618  
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Originally Posted by bjanzen
Just a question...... What do you consider a good tune setting? In other words, how do you know that you are 2 turns out??

Just wondering because I am just starting to break one in now and don't know how to tune without hearing the top end.... Keeping the revs low right now ;-)
breaking in just make sure the engine runs at a consistent temp of 190-210 and thats really all you need to be concerned about until its time to tune it for the track

when the time comes to tune it for on track performance you just want a tune that provides a nice smooth feel of the throttle from bottom to top , consider that getting your carburetor settings "in balance" where there is no real transition from low to high
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Old 04-20-2012 | 11:16 PM
  #2619  
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Hey Monti, how do the TGF plugs run in comparison to the usual TGC plugs?
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Old 04-21-2012 | 04:16 AM
  #2620  
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I have a p5xlt and going to run it on a d8t. I have a 9901 and 41020 and a 086 pipe. Which will be a better choice for a mid size track.
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Old 04-21-2012 | 06:32 AM
  #2621  
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Originally Posted by rossham46
I have a p5xlt and going to run it on a d8t. I have a 9901 and 41020 and a 086 pipe. Which will be a better choice for a mid size track.
Which 086?

P5xlt runs pretty dam good with 086 pipesets but never feels to have the punch with this set , the 9901ss/41020 combo will provide massive low end but will feel as if you are towing a sled when on the straight

9901ss/41021 would be great , very balanced setup on the p5xlt

Dont forget anytime you change pipes you must retune
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Old 04-21-2012 | 07:26 AM
  #2622  
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
Hey Monti, how do the TGF plugs run in comparison to the usual TGC plugs?
what have you found?
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Old 04-21-2012 | 08:04 AM
  #2623  
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Originally Posted by megasaxon
what have you found?
Stick with the c plugs as they are designed for our offroad engines

As with pipes , any pipe will work on an engine but may not provide the best power/runtime balance the engine has to offer, any plug will work but you will find a better balance of power/tuneability with the C plugs , i have also used H plugs with great results but never really liked how the F plugs worked personally
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Old 04-21-2012 | 06:03 PM
  #2624  
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Originally Posted by houston
Which 086?

P5xlt runs pretty dam good with 086 pipesets but never feels to have the punch with this set , the 9901ss/41020 combo will provide massive low end but will feel as if you are towing a sled when on the straight

9901ss/41021 would be great , very balanced setup on the p5xlt

Dont forget anytime you change pipes you must retune
Dynamite 086
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Old 04-22-2012 | 04:50 AM
  #2625  
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Hi could some one help me out i brought a new novarossi and want to change to the turbo head plate but a guy told me i had to take out a shim but he didnt know which one. It has 2 copper and 1 aluminum one. Which one do i take out? thanks
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