+1 this is kinda what happened to me the first weekend on my B5...The line ripped in the HB tank and the clunk came off and the line was floating to the top when the fuel would get to 3/4 to 1/2 a tank and it would get REALLY hot...lol

Cost me alot since that race was double points and it was the final race in a point series. But another test to how awesome these engines are. it was... well I'll just say it was REALLY hot. That engine was the 1st batch of engines and i'm still running it with no problems at all...

must be a good engine huh??? lol

-DC-

I had the clunk stick under the fuel lid of my 8ight a few races back. Crossed the finish line and it died before I could pull it onto pit road. Figured my wife didnt get it filled completely at the stop but it turned out it was stuck. In my case, the fuel line was too short and wasnt sitting in the reservoir area of the tank.

Is anyone running a mugen msr1005 pipe. I am and I am having great results. Runs around 10 min. a tank at 200 deg. A buddy of mine has the 2013 and there is no real difference in performance. Both of the buggys are finishing 1st and 2nd.

i have that pipe and it is very hard to come by.... i will try it .... it a few weeks

Ron is one heck of a guy.
 

Well i called Ron and talk to him and he give me some great advice on tunning and after i got off the phone with him i set my motor exactly like he said and went on my track and ran 2 tanks and the motor ran like a rocket no bogging and good temps its funny even people who thank they no alot always can learn and Ron u just tought me a very good lesson in tunning Thanks for the help u are a top notch guy.and thanks to the rest of u guys for help as well this is a great forum keep up the good work.

Thanks again Ron.

Lol, no problem I'm glad that it worked out! For those of you wondering about the tuning method that I told him about, it's the system that I have been preaching about for months. Call it Ron's "Take Da Pain Out of Da Tuning System " lol. Set your HS and LS to flush, set your air gap to aprox. 0.5mm using your idle screw. Fire the engine up and warm it up for a few seconds and see how it idles. If it idles low this is your engine telling you it is rich on the bottom! Do not touch the idle screw rather lean the LS needle a few hours. If it idles high this is your engine telling you it is lean on the bottom! Again do not touch the idle screw rather richen the LS needle a few hours. Continue doing this, blipping the throttle between adjustments until you get a smooth, steady, consistent idle. Now your LS is set for the moment.

Once you have your idle/LS set put the car out on the track and run it around to get some heat in the engine/chassis. Now adjust your top end for the performance that you want using the HS needle. More than likely you are going to have to lean your HS needle and once you do this you will notice that your idle went up, this is your motor again telling you that it is lean on the LS. Just richen it a few hours until you get a smooth steady idle and you are done.

Using this system you can tune any engine (no matter how out of whack it is) from any engine manufacturer within about 10 minutes! The other really nice things about this system is that for you guys that live in areas where there are wide fluctuations in weather or humidity like down south. Say your engine runs great and seems to be tuned perfectly one day and then you go to the track a week later and it is 20 degrees cooler and your not sure what to do or how the weather change will affect your tuning.
All that you have to do is fire your engine up and listen to it and it will tell you!

Once you fire it up, listen to the motor. If the idle seems high then you know that this is caused by the weather change and because of the atmospheric conditions your engine now needs to be richened. Again using the system above you know that all you need to do is just richen the LS until you get a smooth, steady idle and then toss the car on the track. Do a lap or two and see how the top end is, come in and check the temp. As you engine previously told you when you listened to it idle that you needed to richen the LS it's safe to assume that your top end (HS) is probably going to be a little on the lean/warm side also. If so just richen the HS a few hours and let the engine come back to idle. Your idle will drop, so your engine is telling you that your LS is now richer (in the carburetor your fuel flows first through the HS needle then into the LS needle so if you adjust (richen or lean) the HS it will at the same time affect (richen or lean) the LS also), so just lean the LS a few hours to bring the idle back up to a smooth steady idle and guess what, your now completely tuned again for the new weather conditions! No guess work, no twiddling on needles not knowing if you need to adjust your HS, LS or idle stop screw. Just pure simplicity and all of it comes just from listening to what your engine tells you, not because you are some expert tuner that has been doing this for 15 years or anything along those lines. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron

Ron,

That is an awesome tuning guide. I have it saved in a word file. The motors have been running great. It seems usually if I have a tuning issue, it is me getting the bottom too lean:ha: and jacking with my idle. I just then remember your little guide and get back on track. Thanks for all the help. We are transition from Indoor to Outdoor racing. Gotta take a few weeks off and wait for our tracks to dry. I can't wait to run the B5 outdoors. It is gonna be money.

Adam Kasch

Ron is the man! You just don't see this kind of info on any thread, Thanks Ron

Just finished idling through the first tank of fuel following Ron's break-in advice on page 3 of this thread. First off this engine was much easier to get going the first time than previous engines I had broken in in the past. I remember a few years ago with a v-spec it would continually get jammed at TDC while trying to start it, no such problems with the B5.

The B5 was also extremely easy to get a very rich stable idle. At first I though it wasn't rich enough because there wasn't any fuel spitting out of the pipe, but in reality the pipe was just filling with fuel. After the first tank was burned I was able to pour a teaspoon or two out of the pipe, I think that's rich enough :)

Can't wait to get this thing leaned out....

Hi there, I have a the B5 and will be using it in my new MBX6T. The filter set that came with the trugy seems very tight to fit round the carb outlet. Is this normal or should i be suing another filter set?

Thanks

its ok... I have the mbx6 and its the same way.. seems to fit tight but at least its a good seal.

Woo, just ordered my B5 and its hard to wait till friday for it to get here, though the site my LHS ordered from said the 2013 pipe was backordered. The question i have is what size does the GRP pipe compare to, the one that came with the promo kit with the orange head tuned engine, i think i remember someone saying its close to the 2057 but i couldnt read anything on the pipe

And really, What does that 4 digit number mean anyway?

I think it was the 2053 that came with the GRP promo kit. I've never run that pipe on the B5. But if you want the most power out of the motor. You HAVE to find a 2013 or 2057 with extender.

I think the 4 digit number is just a classification number, basically titling the pipe for IFMAR records. Not sure if there is an actual meaning behind the number.

Ok thanks, hopefully that pipe comes in prety soon after the motor, all i have for the moment is just a jp3 and the grp pipe so it'll have to do.

BEST SPENT $300
 

1. B5
1. 2013 pipe combo
3. O'donnell med plugs
1. P3 hot plug
3 day shipping
Come on you can't beat that for an Italian built engine with top notch customer service. I read every post from the first page to the last and the owner of Werks would be a Success if every engine blew up at once because he stays in tune with the common folk and gives them what he would want. Business majors and future entrepreneurs take notes. Oh by the way if anyone has internal pics of the engine please post them. Thanks:nod:
Oh yeah all this was under $300 it was $296.33:D