I was addressing this question :ha:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::nod:

Did you order the mill from A-Main? When you did, didd it specify it was the 2010 model?

I didn't really tap it like a chisel as much as I lined up the screwdriver with the teeth on the flywheel of the d8 and hit it with the palm of my hand. I wasn't banging on it with anything other than just shoving the screwdriver with my hand.

Werks - you have a PM

For the most part. Dialing in the tune was a little different than I was used to coming from OS, but breaking in was pretty painless.

I opened the idle gap up, flushed the needles, heat gunned the head to the upper 100s and it started right up. I adjusted the idle with the idle stop and leaned the low end just enough to where it idled decently pig 'spitting fuel' rich through one tank. I had to empty the pipe after that :). Next I put my sock sleeve on the head (three layers of material) and ran two tanks through driving mildly (with some quick bursts to mid throttle) and the lsn adjusted to the point where I could get it up to the 180s doing this, while still having lots of good smoke, obviously rich. Then for the next 3 tanks, I progressively leaned the bottom and top while progressively driving more aggressive, dialing in a race tune near the end of tank 6. Temps were around 210 after repeated long bursts. Between every tank I let the temperatures come back to 90F or so to heat cycle the internals.

Here's the thing though, it seemed to have two 'idle drops'. After coming off the high speed, it would come back, idle high, then drop after 10 seconds, then drop again after another 10 or so. I left it like that until I got to the track today.

When I got to the track today, I warmed it up on the box and revisited the the low speed needle. During the course of doing this, I would clean out the motor by blipping full throttle for a second, and then observe idle drop. I noticed that if I blipped full throttle twice in a row, the second blip would lean out and the motor would stumble, so it obviously was too lean even if it was running with good smoke and temp the previous day. I richened the daylights out of the top end until it would try to flame out after reaching speed due to being too rich, then leaned it out until it ran well, had good smoke, and the temps never went over 210 -- this was in some short cut grass next to the track, so the temp will be lower on the track as the grass offers some additional load. I then took the thing back to the pit and dialed in the lsn and idle speed on the box. I set the lsn so it would never (or at least for a darn long time that I didn't wait) load up to the lowest 'about to die' state after coming from wot, but it would idle at one speed for a while, then drop down 'one level'. I then set the idle so it would stay running at the lower idle level, and not engage the clutch coming off wot.

In practice, I leaned the HSN one additional hour and temps were in the 190s. I ran it like this the whole night and it never went north of 205, normally temping in the 190s when coming right off the track.

The motor has nutty bottom end -- I was over shooting so many things that I really had to get used to all the bottom end. I'm running with a jp-4, and I think I can get just under 10 minutes on our track based on fuel consumption, but I didn't try it. I'm curious to see what it does after getting a little more time on the motor.

Believe me...I knew what you meant lol! I was just letting you know prying works too!

Ron, got to run my B5s yesterday. Best money Ive spent on a motor, I'm very happy with it. I can easily get 9 min however I'd like to try for 10 min + What restrictor would you recommend without losing too much power 6 or 6.5?

Thanks

Tuning Lesson Learned...
 

I ran the B5/2013 combo yesterday in my RC8T and learned something about tuning this combo.

During my first qualifier I couldn't see ANY smoke at all above mid throttle. She idled well, had good punch down low and a good top end too. Seeing as I nor my pit guy weren't seeing smoke I thought I was too lean up top. Performance wise though, I didn't get the typical revving mid air that you get when your lean up top and no load on the tires.

I came back to the pits and read my plug...I thought it was ok, my pit guy said it looked too dry so I changed it out to a fresh one , OS P4. Then I checked my fuel tank and after only a 6min qualifier I was damn near empty. Even though I wasn't seeing smoke, my fuel consumption told me I was running way too rich, so I leaned the top a few hours.

Next run out, the engine was spot on, great down low and way faster mid to top w/ a good visible smoke trail throughout the rev range. The lesson learned was that no smoke doesn't always mean too lean, I was actually too rich but only new it because I burned through soooo much fuel in 6mins. Everything you know about tuning should make sense together, nothing should contradict, smoke trail, performance, temps, reading of the plug, and fuel consumption should all lead to the same conclusion. I think I must've been spitting out raw fuel up top and loading up my pipe w/ fuel. The B5 is so powerful though that even this much out of tune it still made good power. When I got the tune right, it became ballistic and you gotta love the sound of the B5/2013 combo!!!!

i know this is a dumb question but everyone is saying how the B5 with the 2013 sounds really cool and different from other engines, does the 2057 do this too? lol

Or how about some video of a B5 coupled with a 2013

Nothing sounds like a 2013! The 2057 will still sound "different" but not 2013 different. You have to hear it to know what we're talking about. It truly is a unique sound!:D

I am aiming to bring in a order of B5's very soon....then you will see tons of video of the B5 on the 2013....tho the B5 may be modified, but I am sure it will still sound very cool !

haha now i wish i would have ordered one of those instead of the 2057 :lol:

B5 stock form is great. i'm sure you'll say its better with your mod:lol:
cant wait for your stock and mod comparsion.