I agree 100%! That's one reason I have developed such a love for OS engines. I haven't run the B5 yet, but from the sounds of it, it'll be the same. One big reason I moved away from Novarossi based engines was the ridiculously long break-in period. People will brag all the time about engines being "so tight" when all that's doing is shortening the usable lifespan of the engine.:nod:

Cool thank-you. The B5 seems to be a awesome mill. I already got a new Ninja that only has 1/2 gallon of breakin on it, but I would like to have a backup/practice mill as well. And for the price and performance I have heard of this motor it's a beast. I might also throw it into a buggy once I get my 8ight running again. LOL and you never know, if it runs like the reviews and I like it better then my Ninja it might become my main engine and the Ninja can sit on the sidelines.

What run times are people getting in a truggy with the 2013 pipe?

If I where to run it in a buggy would the 2013 pipe still be considered the best option?

Thanks

The 2057 pipe would be better for buggy and 2013 for truggy. The motor is to wicked with 2013 IMO for buggy

Thanks again.


Does anyone have the B5 with the 2013 in a Mugen MBX6T. How did it fit up? Did you have to trim the muds guards at all or did it go in without a problem. The reason I am asking is I know some pipe combo's don't fit all the time in the MBX6T without mods.

haha i already know its on its way! ha


so someone check me on this.
for a buggy, 2057 pipe, 97t plug, and 30% byrons but should i go with race blend 11% lubricant or pro blend 9%?
and i think im going to go with rons break in method. is that what everyone else is using to break there's in?

:nod:
I get 11+ minutes in my Truggy with the 2013 pipe, WERKS #5 plug and Werks 30%. The 2013 is not a super long pipe so you shouldnt have any issues fitting in with no modifications. The 2013 is a very punchy pipe a,d the 2057 is smoother,has less punch on the bottom than the 2013 so. It just depends on what you like,how you drive and your specific track.

I Run the 2013 in truggy always, BUt my track has some crazy sets. I also most of the time run the 2013 in buggy also. I will switch to the 2057 when the track does not have super crazy short run sets or jump. It is super smooth and can make you faster if you dont have a perfect throttle finger or if the track is loose.

SO in a nutshell 2013 a lot of snap and punch on bottom with awesome top. 2057 less (smoother )bottom with great mid and top, a little more runtime. Also the 2057 comes with an extender that you can install to lenghthen the pipe giving it more bottom if you need it. Even with the extender it will not have as much bottom as the 2013 but it gives you another option if you want a little more bottom than what the 2057 has. I keep both pipes in my box, that way depending on the track I always have the best option:nod:

hey i dont have a 2013 i have a 2035 and i dont know length wise how they compare but i had to trim quite a bit from the mud guard...lets put it this way, my pipe mount wire almost sits straight out from the chassis

Hey Shanty, that's what I picked up for my 6T. I havn't fit it yet but apparently no problems in the 6t it mostly the buggy where it's a tight fit. may have to trim the mud guard a tad. It's a nice looking motor internally and looking forward to breakin next week. I am starting with the 97T plug as well,seems to be the concensus. (another item no one seems to stock in our area)

I am interested in hearing this B5/2013 SOUND evryone is talking about!:nod:

Do I need O-ring under the Carb?
 

I like to seal the base of my Carbs with Air-Seal. The o-ring sort of prevents that. Do you guys think I need to keep the o-ring? Do you guys seal the Carb? Do you guys seal the highspeed needle?

The 2035 is way longer than the 2013 I have both of those pipes and I am looking at them right now, sitting right next to each other and the 2035 is approx 3/8 of an inch longer.

Idled the first tank through on the box mega rich and when I thumbed the fly to stop the car, it got completely stuck at tdc. I couldn't turn it off without taking my tuning screwdriver and tapping the fly with it like a chisel. Didn't happen on any of the next tanks where I was progressively getting leaner and heat cycling, but on that first one I was like 'You gotta be kidding me!" -- lol.

definetley use the o-ring on the top of the base. The other carb in the case is said to not be needed. I use it though, just more protection. This was posted by Ron on here somewhere. *EDIT* Woops I quoted the wrong person, sorry Heidmann1

Read my above post.

Razathorn,

Instead of "tapping it like a chisel", turn your car upside down, put the tip of the screwdiver on the flywheel and use the edge of the flywheel hole to pry the flywheel backwards. It's more gentle on the internals.

I'd go with the Pro blend, with modern day lubricants there realy is no need to run over 10% oil. For the rest your set up sounds spot on!