thank you for your response... i will start at a half turn in... and see how it goes...

KC gonna make like that bad speed channel show and BLOW IT UP!!!

R

man R.. are you just following to give me a hard time.. :nod: ... ama see yu at rama next year

Well, just put in my order for 2 B5's and pipes, for my brand new RC8B and RC8T.

Should have them installed by the end of this week, all ready for break-in this coming weekend.

I'm primarily an on-road guy, but I'm sure looking forward to messing around in the dirt.

This is gonna be fun!! :D:D

No worries, I allways recomend that people start with the flush setting because it is easier to tell when your clutch is bogging the engine ratherthan when it is slipping a bit. Plus slipping your clutch will wear it out faster versus engaging too fast does no dammage. I tend to look at it like tuning an engine, it's allways safer to start from a rich setting and then lean it out. With adjustable clutches it's safer to tune start with an earlier engagement that way you don't burn it up!

Welcome to the world of dirt and thank you for picking up our products! I'm an old 1/8th in-road guy my self, loved it! Trust me when I say that off road is going to be a LOT less work lol! Let me know if you have any questions or need some help with anything.

Regards,

Ron

What are the stock lsn and hsn settings from the factory, having a bit of a problem tuning the B5. It seems to running good but lacking low end and running warm 245. Pretty sure from reading other posts that its lean on the high and rich on the bottom. Also using the werks clutch and carbon shoes might try the rulon and carbon shoe combo. Also has anyone have problems with their idle screw? Mine seems to make the slide bind when i adjust the idle up.

I will get my new tank in this week and i will get it ready to go by time my fuel gets here.and i was going to start breaking in my other motor but its missingfrom my box:flaming:

flush on bottom and top. idle gap I believe is 1.5mm. If its broken in, set it no bigger than 1mm.

If your slde is binding when you adjust the idle up you probably have it close to mazes out. Flip back and find my tuning tips and it will set you straight on tuning the engine. In a nutshell set the idle to aprox .5mm, set the HS flush fire the engine and use the LS to set the idle. Run the car and set the HS for the top that you want and then go back and adjust the idle again with your LS and you will be set. I went into more detail in my explination a ways back but that's the gist of it!

Some one stole your motor? If so that's not cool!

For real change tracks! If you don't have that opportunity make it DANM sure that there knowledge of theives at your local. Get on yoiur local site and post about it so everybody kmnows that somebody stole your mill. An't nothin lower than a theif, so handle yours!!!!!! If you bought i legitamley(SP) you should let it be known that it is yours, and "just handing it over" an't gomna cut it!!!!!! On pratice days when im martialing and my boys are runnin, theres always those overlookers of the pit setup so i tell them to gp on for real.

My turn for a "my b5 rocks" story!

I followed the break in guide on page 3, stalled a couple of times while I was getting the (seemly) huge idle gap sorted out for break in. Had it heated up and idling in no time...
Idled the full tank like a train (Had oil all over my shirt so thats a good sign it's rich enough ;) )

Did the rest of the boring breakin (I hate breaking in engines...) with no flame outs for the rest of the 7ish tanks. Slowly leaning it off.

Had to wait 2 weeks till our next prac session, but I got it purring along with a good - but not 100% tune...

Had plenty of good sparring sessions with my mates OS Speed (My 808 Vs Hyper 9)...
I wouldn't say this engine is faster, but neither of us had a definite advantage anywhere in the Rev range. Ran the same plug since breakin... no problems all day :D

Running :
Ascendancy 4 Shoe Clutch 1.0 Springs
XRAY 16T Clutch Bell
TTR 2035 Pipe
OD 97T Plug

Ran for 10m 22sec on a full tank with this setup... (Only timed once however)
Not quite enough for me to pit at 10 - which pipe would get me some extra seconds? (Im not brave enough to risk running out of fuel :D )

Hyper RX7, thanks for posting your experience so far! Regarding the pipes I have not personaly tested the 2035 but if memory serves me right the concesus seems to be that the 2013 provides slightly better run time (and better performance) so if that is indeed the case the 2057 should he a big boost in run time. I would recommend that you give that a shot especialy in buggy as it will also smooth out the bottom end plus probably give you 30+ seconds of run time. Another thing to try especialy if you have enough top end is going with a 6 or 6.5mm reducer and you can also limit your throttel opening tonaround 90%. doing both of these will make a marked improvement in run time! Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions.

I just hit the half gal mark on my first B5 today at our little track that we have and I had guys offering me $50 more then what I payed for the engine new they where that impressed as was I.

This has got to be the best engine that I have bought yet, break in was so very easy, holds a tune all day, and is to me for an engine of this quality dirt cheap. I can't thank Ron and all the people involved with the RD of it enough for what is going to be my engine of choice until Werks has something new out.

I'm just really glad I bought 2 right from the start and didn't hesitate.

I will say this the only thing that I wish it had out of the box was some STICKERS so I could plaster them all over and let people know what just passed them LOL