I run my B5 with a 2053 and have awesome results, power and runtimes. Can you please post your results with the 2053 and the 2013 I am courious.

Sure I'm no Kortz or pro driver but ill let u know. I will get to Drive more often this year because I'm startin a new track in the Pittsburgh Area.

I tried to take pics of the B5 guts...only problem is the tolerances between the rod bushing and crank pin are so tight and perfect, its nearly impossible to get the rod off the crank without jamming the rod bushing on the crank pin. I talked to Ron about this, because Ive never had this problem disassembling any engine. He said after its broken in, it should come off a little easier...but the close tolerances between the crank pin/rod bushing are the reason why the rod lasts the life of the piston and sleeve...thats something Ive never had happen, and something I am looking forward to!:nod:

where is it going to be??? I go to Mcculloughs sometimes with a buddy that lives out that way but always like to hit new tracks...will it be 1/8 friendly or more electric friendly??

I'll be helping a friend break in his B5 this week, so I thought I'd read up on this thread.
Ron, from your break in procedure on page 3, you talk about the mistake of running the low speed needle too lean during break in:

Throughout my years of nitro tuning, I've been back and forth a couple of times now on exactly how much fuel needs to be run through the engine during break in. The answer is obviously more than race tune, but the question is: super rich bottom with lots of air gap as you suggest, or mid-way between that and race tune in terms of gap and mixture?

Sure, more fuel provides more lubrication, but does it heat up the engine enough to free it up sufficiently?

The sleeve is engineered tapered/pinched at the top, because that is the hottest part of the engine. As it gets to operating temperature, it expands and just about straightens out... allowing the piston to move up/down freely.
By not heating up the engine enough and allowing it to expand, your piston is continuously slamming into the pinch zone, causing more stress to the internals, especially the rod and bushings.

Due to that, my current train of though is to run the bottom end leaner, in order to generate more heat at idle (and cover up the head), and run the top super rich so that the engine gets more fuel as I blip it. I also use the heat cycle method... 2-4 minute intervals.

This method has worked great for me for a number of engines, and I'm sure that either one will work for my buddy, but any of your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Super rich bottom with large air gap combined with a heat gun or an engine heater is IMO the very best method. Keeps heat in the engine while still providing a huge amount of oil to lubricate the engine and flush out all metal shavings created during the break-in procedure.;)

The track will be newbie friendly. I made a 1/8 friendly and it scared the newbies away and as we know racers are finicky and don't want to show up to a track that doesn't have enough competition for them. It will be located on rt.22 in New Alexandria. I want to stage a full out race program but ill be dealin with a lot of people who don't know anything about our sport. I have a 200ft x 180ft clay pad with a 3 story Mt. Of clay to play with. I have partnered up with some big players in the full scale racing world that want me to bring R/C racing to their Facility and they want to split 50/50 of everything the track brings in. I use to go to Dougs also my buddies still do. Eric Shoen and Chad Dematio. Oh my name is Chris Harper I've heard Eric mention your name before. PM me and ill rap some more about the track.

Hey guys I need to make a decision in the next few days..is this motor able to compete at the top levels.. with say a Team losi Truhe or an mugen ninja

maybe you need to read the previous pages...:sweat:... yes it can.. as a matter of fact Kortz is consistently in the A main with this engine...

Yes, there is no problem competing at a top level with this engine. To date I think Kortz has been in the a-main of every major race that he has been at with it. The question is more along the lines of do you have the skill necessary to harness the power of this engine to compete at top levels? If you do this engine will have no problem taking you there.

Just ordered a B5 and 2013! We'll see how it goes! I just couldn't resist the price tag and awesome feedback. I need to stock up on engines for the 2010 season so I figured I would give this combo a try. Probably won't get to break it in for a couple weeks, but when I get it up and running I will post my results. This will most likely go into my 8T 2.0.:nod:

I thought I needed to stock up on engines as well and I'm still running the same two B5's from the first batch. :nod:

Good to hear and welcome aboard! Let us know if you have any questions or need some help with anything.

Regards,

Ron

Don't get me wrong, my current engines still run great, I just need something new.

Glad to hear your B5's are working out well though! I can't wait to hear that 2013.:D

Thank you!

well after owning my B5 for about 3 months now, I finally started break in today. Got her hooked up to a 2050 pipe for now, Torco 30% and OD97T plug. Sealed it up good a few days ago, preheated to 200, primed and she fired as soon as the flywheel hit the box! it was purring like a kitten. Idle was a little nuts..up and down allot but played with the LSN a little and got it stable. Following Rons break in method and got up to tank #3. Very pleased with the process so far. No hiccups at all and it runs great. Rich as hell and still has some balls in the figure 8's..Looks like I am going to be very happy. Cant wait to get it on the track