b-5
 

got my new werks b-5 from tower.3 tanks threw it so far.primed it and it fired right up and idled sweet..good temps and easy to tune thus far.got a jp 1 on it sounds good,i think itll be snappy in my truggy.

More than enough power and bottom for a truggy:nod: I run 2013 ,1.0 springs and standard 3 shoe aluminum clutch and its the perfect match for truggy. And I pit at EVERYTIME at 10 minutes with at least another minute of fuel always in the tank:nod: I cant emphasize enough how killer the B5 rips a truggy around, I used to tun .24's before becasue I wasnt happy with the other .21's in a truggy. Then came along the B5 put it in my truggy and It was like one of those e-Harmony stories..lol The perfect match...lol

:lol::lol::lol:

b5 flame- outs
 

i have the first generation b5. just under 2 gallons. i love the motor. has been problem free until yesterday. motor just flames out, sometimes on the lowend of running, and sometimes under full throttle. i know my tune is close. plenty of smoke and tempts are 180-200. when it does flame out it seems the motor is way rich on the bottom. i have installed new glow plug ( p4 ). still the same. i have switched fuels, i shortened the fuel line to the carb to be a more of a straight shot and lenghtened the exhaust pressure line a little. that seemed to fix the problem. the next day, same flame out problem. the only thing that seems a little off is the low speed needle turns without any resistance at all.. lastly i switched pipes, i was running a new serio 2013, i do not have the exact gasket for the header and muffler joint but what i am using seems to be sealing fine. ther is a tiny bit of residue under the joint on the chassis. almost nothing at all. thinking maybe it was the pipe, i switched to a os 2050 and it has quit flaming out, but only for a 1/4 of a tank so far.....
are there any issues with the original carb or possibly the low speed needle turning without any resistance? is there anything that can be used to swell th o ring on the low speed needle? i have a old v-spec carb, i am gonna check to see if the o ring for the low speed needles are the same size. any thoughts or ideas woluld be appreciated.

Very likely your low speed needle needs o-ring replacement if it has no Resistance, Amain hobbies has the part you need under engine parts for the B5. Also there is a method of testing for air leaks, take the motor out and take the air filter off and header, take a piece of fuel tubbing and attach it to the fuel inlet, cover the carb and exhaust port with your fingers and blow into the fuel line to pressurize engine and apply soapy water(just the bubbles) with a small brush around carb base, carb pinch bolt and high and low needles if you see more tiny bubbles moving(expanding) you have a air leak.

Is there anyone other than Amain that carries the short pipe springs? I would like to have a secondary choice for when Amain does not have them in stock, sometimes you just dont have time to backorder.

P.S. I know they have them in stock now.

From reading your post if your running at 180-200 degrees (which is fairly cold) and your engine seems to flame out because it is rich on the bottom you may want to consider leaning the bottom a little bit ;-) Normal race tune on these engines I would consider anywhere from 200-230 or so, so you have a ways to go! On the composite carbs the LS needles were always relatively easy to turn so I doubt that this is the problem (as if you had an air leak there you would have a high idle that you could not get rid of) but pull the LS needle out and check the o-ring to make sure it's intact. If you want to make the needle more difficult to turn you can put a single turn of a small stip of Teflon tape right at the end of the threaded part of the needle. This is on the outermost portion of the needle after the o-ring so you don't have to worry about any of it possibly getting into your carb and messing things up. Hope ths helps!

Regards,

Ron

Ron,

Hi, I am Tommy. I have recently gotten back into R/C after alittle over 10 years of being away from it. I am an active duty service member currently on deployment and I will add my last deployment because I will retire in June 2011 after serving 20 years to the great country we call the United States of America. I have purchased an Odonnell ZO1B team buggy kit along with an Odonnell engine and a MTE Orion engine. I haven't run the Odonnell engine yet because it hasn't arrived to me but have great expectations.LOL We will see. The orion engine is great and also a 5 port but a bit high on the price tag for my taste. Anyway I was wandering around on this thing we call the internet as I often find myself doing on some down time and found myself on A main under engines and happened across yours. Then after some more running around I came across this thread and let me say onething right now. I am throughly impressed by your relations with your fan base and customers. Now I will also tell you that I only read the first 3 pages of this thread. I can tell you that I am not a very trusting person on first meetings but you seem to really say what you mean and mean what you say. No smoke and mirrors type thing and that my friend goes along way with me in my book. For instance, the guy that was worried about the 10 min run time. You could have made him empty promises so that he would run out and buy the motor as fast as he could but you kept it real and to the facts. People have asked you about pipes and you could have done the same but instead you stuck to the fact that you haven't tried such and such pipe and don't know how they will perform. Very respectable and if your engines are half as good of a man as you seem to be then I will be the proud owner of not one but two of them by the end of the month. With the utmost respect.

Thomas

Still having Problems
 

2009 B5. Ive tried everything. Flame out after flame out. It will be running perfect and then poof it dies. It has 6 gallons on it, new connecting rod thanks to Rons fantastic customer service. New tank and fuel line. New clutch, new clutch bearings. The piston sleeve and piston were perfect no wear at all. Motor bearings were still great,no leaky seal or anything. It will run perfect till it hits half a tank and then poof flame out. If I start with just half a tank it will start ,idle perfect, get out and drive a couple of mins ,and for no reason, poof die. It started doing this at a race a week ago and Ive been chasing it ever since. If anybody can shed some advice Im all ears........:cry:

It sounds funny but check the exhaust gaskets on the motor and pipe. That happened to me on a vspec and thats what is was. Hope that helps.

There both new also........

How strong is the compression? Maybe it is just tired?

You have some type of pressure issue going on with your tank. It sounds like a leak or some how or another it is creating a vacume. Check your pressure line and the pipe to make sure the nipple is not stopped up. If these look ok replace the tank. This is not a motor issue otherwise the motor would not run fine for the first half of the tank (when full) or when starting with a half tank fornssceral minutes then start flaming, as mentioned there is smething else going on here.

It has more compression then my 2010 does with 4 gallons on it........

Hey Tommy, thank you for the kind words. When I comes down to products and support I try my best to be a straight shooter about things. It's my personal belief that if the stuff you make is good, the product will speak for it's self. So all of the needless marketing double talk is just that, needless lol! In any case thank you again for your comments, it is appreciated and if you do decide to give our stuff a shot I'm sure that you will be happy! Thank you also for your service, coming from a military family my self (dad did 25 years) i understand what is involved with that!

Regards,

Ron