Rinnggg winnggg !!!

+ YouTube Video

Now why doesn't plack75's B5 idle like this.....:confused: It goes from high to low idle.... high to low idle..... No matter what we do and try.... :mad:


It's not like i can't get a B5 to run great !! hahaha

Have you swapped a 2010 carb w/a standard carb? My info came directly from Ron...we had quite a lengthy conversation about the subject, and he told me the carb could not be used on the original B5 without boring out the case for the new pinch bolt....

This B5 is a pleasure to break-in. I'm on the sixth tank and everything is going perfect, very nice motor.:nod:

Tell me about it. The B-5 is the easiest motor I have ever had to breakin and tune.

Yes, The carbs are interchangeable I have swapped them back and forth personally. between the older model B5 and the newer one. I habe both models of the B5.

Sorry, forgot to explain about the different carb pinch bolt assemblies.:)

The carbs will swap and fit perfectly between the 2 B5's. The reason the pinch bolts larger diameter on the 2010 is to give more surface area on the pinch bolt to hold the carb in. Since the 2010 has a insulating sleeve the larger surface area of the larger pinch will allow it to hold the carb tight without having to tighten it too much to where it "dents" the unsulator.

So basically if you use a 2010 carb on a older model B5 just be careful not to overtighten the pinch bolt as it is smaller diamter and there is more of a chance of it "digging" into the insualting sleeve.

BUt thats the difference. But even with the new 2010 model engine, you will still "dent" the insulator if you over tighten it. So just tighten it just enough to where the carb is secure and does not twist and stop.

Os engines have the insulator and same thing of you overtighten the carb the insulator can dent or even crack. hope this helps:)

Thanks for clarifying...thats good info:nod:

Ron, take note...:D

The B5 is the first nitro engine I have ever broke in and I finally ran my 15th tank through it today. This motor was easy to break in and I am very impressed with the quailty and the way it runs. I was a diehard electric guy last year but I am loving this engine and nitro in general so far. Thanks Werks for a awesome engine and easy break-in guide.

My B5 does the high low thing also. Dosnt matter how I tune it. Runs great but from a full speed burst to a stop it will idle high for 3 or 4 seconds and then drop back to normal idle......

mine does the same

try leaning the low speed needle a couple of hours, then reset your idle stop as the idle will come up when you do this. mine idles like RB five's .... but it used to do the high-to-low thing... until someone told me to lean the low end a little more.

it werk'd for me:)

I am going to start break in on mine today but I have a question.Last night I was trying to see how much I needed to turn in the idle screw to get the 2.5mm gap that Ron mentions in his break in guide.I could only get maybe a 2mm gap at the most and then the throttle slide would basically lock up if I tried to increase the gap any more.I figured if I counted the "hours" needed to turn the idle screw to get to the proper gap it might be easier than tryin to eyeball it once I had it running.Is this a normal thing??

2mm gap is fine, It doesnt have to be exact, Just needs to be more than the normal setting to make it idle at a very rich setting. Also the 2010 carb has a different design 2 tier throttle slide so 2mm should be more than enough gap.
A few pages back i posted some pics of the carb opening on the 2010 carb.

Ok cool,thanks.Ya I did see the pics now that you mentioned it.This is my first engine break in so I am little nervous about getting it right.

I have found that the when the idle is high for a couple seconds then drop down it isnt always becasue the bottom is too rich...

A couple thing's to try that have fixed it for me multiple times.

Lower the idle screw a little bit. if the idle gap is a little to big this will happen. but just a little like 1/8 or 1/4 turn out.

Also it doesnt always mean its too rich on the bottom , I have had this happen and I richened the bottom a little bit and it stopped it also.

There are 2 reasons why the idle drop thing happenes, It will happen from being too rich on bottom and from the things I mentioned above.

Too rich bottom is when the idle drops because too much fuel is in the engine case and eventually causes the idle to drop down becasue the over acumulation of fuel in the crankcase.



Then I think the other idle drop i first mentioned is because the bottom is on the lean side and when you come off a high rev all the fuel is cleaned out of the crankcase and the bottom is a bit lean so it takes a couple seconds for some fuel to build back up in the crankcase then it will drop to a steady idle.

Anyway just some info to try. It has worked for me on all my engines. to eliminate the idle drop thing. Hope this helps:)