Metal pinch lol. When I remove the plug, it doesn't get stuck at the top at all. It does make a faint thunk noise. It's not difficult at all to turn it over

Ok, then this is not something that you need to be worried about. Metal pinch frankly is bad, it equates to friction. You want the piston and sleeve to seal which creates compression, what you feel when you try and turn the flywheel over with a plug installed. Metal pinch is the thing that you basically go through the break in process to remove, in essence breaking in is wearing the piston down to the same taper or shape as the sleeve so that it seals properly. This process puts a lot of strain on the internal components i.e. rod, rod bushings, crank pin etc. As I've mentioned before our production facility uses some of the latest CNC equipment with real high manufacturing tolerances, this allows us to get a really close fit on the piston/sleeve at the factory which reduces the amount of time and wear that you have to put on your engine breaking it in.

Look at it this way, with some of the other brands of engines you have to take the time to run 2 gallons through your engine before the metal pinch is gone and your engine is now performing optimally. After those 2 gallons you should also probably replace your rod lol! With our engines you only need to run around 3-4 quarts through it to get the correct piston/sleeve fit so that your engine performs to it's full potential, in essence it is then race ready! So you are saving the time, saving the additional cost of fuel, saving the wear on your rod and ending up with a race worthy engine much quicker and faster. Basically it is a win, win situation.

Again metal pinch is bad and this is why some of the engine modders offer something called hand lapped pistons on other brands of engines. Basically they use an abrasive material to lap or remove material from the piston so that it is closer to the fit of the sleeve, simplifying break in and reducing engine wear. In essence the same thing that we achieve by using tighter/closer tolerances in our manufacturing process on our engines stock.

The other reason that we can do this is because we use a CNC machined billet piston, this is turned on a CNC lathe from solid high Si content aluminum rod. Other companies use cast pistons (or microcasted in Italian marketing speak) which are much cheaper to make but the tolerances again are not as good. Hope this helps explain things!

Regards,

Ron

yes you explained things very well, I appreciate it. I just got worried because somebody at the track told me I have "low pinch" or something like that and said the motor might be finished :cry:

I'll give it a try soon, thanks Ron!

No worries, again metal pinch is nothing to be concerned about, just pay attention to your compression. The easiest way to tell if your p/s is finished is that you simply will not be able to get your engine to maintain a smooth, steady idle. It's really that simple, turning over the engine in your hand and trying to guestimate the resistance, holding the flywheel and letting the engine hang on it's side and counting the seconds before it flips down and all those other systems people use to try and measure their compression are just a waste of time. If your engine won't idle it's done, that simple lol!

Regards,

Ron

ok whats a good way to test the idle? how long should the engine idle for until the idle comes down and loads up? 10 seconds, 20 seconds?

You lost me here, how do you test idle? Your engine either idles or it does not lol. If the only way to keep your engine running is by having a really high idle (to keep the thing going) then that is a sign of the compression being shot.

lol my bad. I have the idle stop screw set to about .7mm and when I punch the throttle and let off, it idles pretty high for about 5-10 seconds before the idle comes down again. Does that make sense?

That's what happened to mine -- bam, won't idle well. Only way to keep it running is to raise the heck out of the idle and have it run on and push you out of the corners. Pulled the P/S and you can just slide the piston easily all the way to where the head button would sit -- DONE.

Hey Folks,

Just received my B5 ... Good looking engine. Hopfully will be able to get it installed in my X2 CRT this evening and start break-in tomorrow evening. Got a race this Saturday :blush:

How much fuel do you have on it?

Is no news good news??!!??!!?? Honestly there's not too much to tell, it did what it was supposed to do and I didn't have to worry about whether it was my clutch causing an issue or was my tune off. To me that's a very good thing.....not worrying about power delivery, simply focusing on piloting around the track. The fact that it was preassembled made install a breeze....now I'll take my engine out, remove the clutchbell and do an inspection to see what kind of wear marks are on the clutches and bell....This is my first 4 shoe clutch and I honestly need to figure out how to take it apart, LOL! Are there/will there be instructions? (Just trying to help out the newbs, not that I don't have a clue:lol::lol::lol:.......well maybe that is it;))

I would contact RC Renew and have it resized....That guy is really good and would make that engine great again....Send it on Monday and have it back by Friday ! if your not happy, I will personally cover your expense !

The idle gap is just fine, Your problem is that you are lean, Rich the LSN till you get a steady idle, the move to the HSN, and run the buggy in every change that you make. I suggest go over the brake in section and tune the engine with that guide. That guide also will tell how good is your idle, This engine will idle for thw hole tank of fuel if you want with no problems. Read the guide like I said you will understand how tune this engines or any.

Go with experinced people http://www.rayaracing.com/ enuff said :nod:. Forgot! turnaround time is always 1-2 business days

quick Q for u werks guys how will a grp efra 2053 work on a b5/ b6:confused: