Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 7664914)

I can say I've seen the new Werks clutch in person(Prototype I believe) and it looked very nice!:nod:

Originally Posted by sluggo_sx8 (Post 7664845)

sounds like you need to order your self a B6 for buggy and keep the other b5 for parts :) hoping to get out wed night, are you going out??

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7664839)

Yep we used to do this back in the days when we needed to quickly break in a motor at the track when we were running 1/8th on-road. It always used to make me cringe lol, puts a lot of stress on the rod!

Originally Posted by sluggo_sx8 (Post 7664877)

Hey Neil what temps you running to get 10min? I am getting at least 8min with b5/2013. Beating on it hard I am coming in at 218 or so. I know temps don't mean much but I am still alittle scared to lean it out more. I upped my clutch bell from 13 to 14 teeth with a 48 tooth spur. It seems to be very very fast on the straights and has to much low still. If I lean this thing out anymore I am not going to be able to control it.

Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7664962)

I used to be the same way. Then I finally started to lean it out. Get it up to 235 or so. My runtimes on a big track are 9:50 obviously I pit at 8min mark but leaning it out that much makes your runtime even better! indoors they are over 10!

Originally Posted by Quad Racer 34 (Post 7664962)

I used to be the same way. Then I finally started to lean it out. Get it up to 235 or so. My runtimes on a big track are 9:50 obviously I pit at 8min mark but leaning it out that much makes your runtime even better! indoors they are over 10!

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7664933)

Did you see the final production versions that are chrome plated?

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 6190668)

The way that I normal do it is to set the HS needle to flush with the end of the housing and then with the air filter off, fire it up and leave it on the box. Blip the throttle a couple of times and then let it come back down to idle. Then I start to screw in the idle stop screw until I see around a 2-2.5mm air gap (opening on the slide)

******* Update 5/27/10 I'm changing this a little as we are now all using the 2010 aluminum carb. The easiest way that I have found to set the air gap mentioned above rather than try to measure 2-2.5mm etc. is just to turn the idle stop screw in 1 1/2 complete turns in from flush. This I have found is a little less than the maximum that the slide can be opened with this screw and not bind*******

When you are doing this your idle speed will start to increase so you are basically going to have to start richening your low speed needle a couple of hours (until you get a smooth, steady idle) then do a couple of hours on the idle stop screw and back and forth until you see the 2-2.5mm+ air gap (***update from above, keep screwing in the idle stop screw 1-2 hours at a time and then richening your ls a bit to bring the idle back down, repeating this until you hit the 1.5 turns in from flush on the idle stop screw as indicated above****) that I mentioned. As this is a two stroke engine, performance is always dictated by air/fuel ratio and as we are now talking about the low speed needle (remember we set the HS needle flush with the end of the housing and there is no need to touch this again for a while) if you have too much fuel (rich setting) you will have a low idle, if you have too little fuel (lean setting) you will have a high idle). It basically is a no brainer if you are too rich or lean because your engine will tell you!

Once you get a steady idle going with the large air gap that I mentioned (large air gap means a lot of air flow, to get a steady idle means that to compensate you will have to dump a lot of fuel through the engine= guaranteed rich condition and you can not damage your engine right off the bat by being too lean) I idle it through the first tank on the box. This is done basically to pump a lot of oil through the engine to flush out any metal particles in the engine and remove the minute bit of metal particles that are always released initially during break in.

Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.

Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.

Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.

Once we get to this point we now need to be concerned about the HS needle. What I then do is re-fuel and fire the vehicle up, putt it around for a couple of minutes to heat saturate the case and the chassis and then do a quick high speed run around the track (do not hold it maxed out for a long time on the straight, this is bad). I pull it back in, temp the engine and adjust the HS needle so that I see right around 200 degrees. Then let the engine drop back down to idle and see how the idle performance looks. If the idle is now fast (it has now increased) this means that you need to richen your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine, there is too little fuel flowing into it = lean condition) don't touch the idle screw just the LS needle. If the idle is low this means that you now need to lean your low speed needle (for the amount of air flowing into the engine there is too much fuel flowing into it = rich condition) again don't touch the idle screw.

Then I toss the car on the track for another 6-8 tanks with the engine running around 200 degrees as explained above running close to race speed but rolling off the throttle mid way down the straight. Once I'm done with the 6-8 tanks doing this we would have run around 12 to 15 tanks total through the engine in all of the steps above. I now consider the engine pretty much broken in and I'll get close to race tune on the HS setting the engine around 220 degrees. Again check to see what happens to the idle speed and adjust your low speed needle to compensate if it is high or low. Run a further 6 or so tanks through the engine driving it as you normally would and you are good to go to full race tune which will be in the 220 to say mid 240'ish range and I would consider the engine broken in and ready to be pounded on.

Regards,

Ron

Originally Posted by jubibamse (Post 7665077)

Hi

I wonder if I should pre heat the engine for the first 10-12 tanks of fuel?

And how do you keep temps up on the box and in the first tanks at low speed in eights. Maybe you run it at low temps the first few tanks?

Sorry but because of my bad language I don´t understand the part, At what time I finished running in eights, If i got it right, i think it is 2 hours in on the idle screw after each tank, until i hit 1-1,5 mm idle gab?

Thanks

Originally Posted by sluggo_sx8 (Post 7664877)

Hey Neil what temps you running to get 10min? I am getting at least 8min with b5/2013. Beating on it hard I am coming in at 218 or so. I know temps don't mean much but I am still alittle scared to lean it out more. I upped my clutch bell from 13 to 14 teeth with a 48 tooth spur. It seems to be very very fast on the straights and has to much low still. If I lean this thing out anymore I am not going to be able to control it.

Originally Posted by jubibamse (Post 7665077)

Hi

I wonder if I should pre heat the engine for the first 10-12 tanks of fuel?

And how do you keep temps up on the box and in the first tanks at low speed in eights. Maybe you run it at low temps the first few tanks?

Sorry but because of my bad language I don´t understand the part, At what time I finished running in eights, If i got it right, i think it is 2 hours in on the idle screw after each tank, until i hit 1-1,5 mm idle gab?

Thanks

Originally Posted by sluggo_sx8 (Post 7665012)

Ron any idea when we will be able to get these clutches, I stopped stocking up on losi clutch parts because of them coming out.

Originally Posted by Werks (Post 7665237)

Hello jubibamse, regarding pre-heating the engine there are obviously a lot of different opinions on this. Me personally I don't bother with it and can't say that it has ever negatively affected the longevity (life) of my engines but what do I know lol! If you want to pre-heat feel free to do so, if not then don't bother with it.

As far as keeping the temps up when running the figure eights again I don't worry about keeping the temps up, the engine runs at whatever temperature the engine runs at.

Then your next question you are correct 1-2 hours on the idle screw after each tank until you hit the 1-1.5mm mark. At that point you are driving fast enough where you are now only on the HS needle. So then you start adjusting that, again reducing the idle gap 1-2 hours after each tank.

Hope this helps, if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to ask!

Regards,

Ron

Originally Posted by jubibamse (Post 7665321)

Thanks that helps alot:)

But then when I start adjusting the HS needle, you write, that again reducing the idle gap 1-2 hours after each tank, to what point? I mean 1mm / 0,7mm or?