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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 7380975)
The issue that you are describing is most often caused by simply having too small of an air gap set onhe carb. This is one of the reasons that I continualy stress the importance of having a fixed (@0.5mm) air gap in my tuning write up. What I would suggest that you try quickly to see if this is indeed the issue that you are experiencing is just screw the idle stop screw in about 1/2 turn. Fire the engine up, your idle will be high. Just richen the LS needle a few hours until the idle comes back down and is smooth & steady. Then warm the car up by driving a lap or two and then just stop and let it idle for a bit and see if it dies. You should be able to idle for 10-20 seconds at least without the engine starting to load up. Like I said the issue that you are experiencing boils down basicaly to a tuning issue, it will be either the air gap like I mentioned or a rich bottom end, use the system above and it will address both of them. Let me know....
Regards, Ron |
Originally Posted by devilsquid
(Post 7380847)
Underway,
with a name like that I would assume you were or possibly are Navy? Anyway, no offense taken what so ever and thanks for the info on the pipes. Just means I don't have to buy one now. As for Odonnell, I am aware that his man. is done over seas but is it not an american based company? Yes if I had it my way most everything I own would be american made but that doesn't mean that I am blind to the fact that great products come from other countries or that I don't use them. can you knock a Honda product for instance? I won't. I just try to support the US whenever it is possible and it is not always an easy thing to do. So rest assured no offense taken and I really appreciate the info. Yup Active duty Navy. ITC stationed at Great Lakes. I agree about supporting USA companies. You will definately be satisfied with the Werks products. Ron has built his company on superior products and great support. Werks makes it so you dont have to worry about your engine part of your racing program and that is key. |
i ran my very first nitro race last night with this engine. it was great, easy stating, easy tuning, and no flame outs. im very happy with this engine.
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Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 7379243)
You have some type of pressure issue going on with your tank. It sounds like a leak or some how or another it is creating a vacume. Check your pressure line and the pipe to make sure the nipple is not stopped up. If these look ok replace the tank. This is not a motor issue otherwise the motor would not run fine for the first half of the tank (when full) or when starting with a half tank fornssceral minutes then start flaming, as mentioned there is smething else going on here.
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Well Chief,
I am gonna hate on you just alittle bit because you are back there in the States even if it is in Great Mistakes, getting to tear it up. My extent of tearing it up is going up to the flight deck and letting it rip around for alittle while with the occassional beach op in which I might get to play with it or not having Pirates mistake our ship for a merchant and come firing away at us. Sure you heard about that not so long ago mistake of theirs. Captain put out to us that the US is going to seek legal action against these pirates, which is a first. wonder how that is going. Anyway, that is about as much as I feel comfortable talking about here. One day these roles will be reversed and i will get to rub it in your face.LOL Take care shipmate and very nice to meet you here. V/R QM1 |
Originally Posted by hdcruzer
(Post 7381684)
Okay new tank, new pressure line, cleaned out nipple. At exactly half tank poof just dies. So I put my other 2010 B5 in changed nothing and it ran through the whole tank not a problem. What is this telling me? Only thing I can think of is after it warms up it is losing compression. Has plenty of compression cold, hardly any at all when it warms up. This motor only has 6 or less gallons through it and its gone through a connecting rod, and now it looks like its going to need a piston and sleeve. Ive never ran this motor as lean as could be ran. It was used for only 3 races and practice mostly because I still have problems with the throttle slide hanging up, no matter how its set up. No problems with the 2010 yet although Ive never been able to get it to idle right and with about 5 gallons through it the connecting rod has some slop in it also. Im lost, I really want to swear buy these motors but because of the experience I have had with them its really hard to do. Ron dont get me wrong you are a great person and youve always taken care of me. Thats why its really hard for me to go to another motor and thats why I keep plugging away with the 2 B5s I have.
Secondly your "it allready went through a rod" (at 6 gallons) comment is not realy correct. In your earlier posts you stated something along the lines of your rod had failed, something that I had never seen. This is why I asked you to send me the rod and told you that I would send you another one for free. The rod that you sent me had not failed and frankly just had a little bit of play in it, just like any rod with 6 or so gallons on it will have. It was still usable and frankly did not need to replaced for another couple of gallons, so again "it already went through a rod" statement is a bit of a stretch. You need to understand that these are racing engines and are designed for performance. Just like your vehicle they will require some periodic maintenace. Getting 6+ gallons out of an engine that is raceable after 2 quarts or getting 6 gallons out of one of the other Italian engine that costs you an extra $120 and is raceable after 1-2 gallons, which actualy provides you more bang for your buck? Heck go the v-spec route and you may be replacing your p/s after 3-4 gallons and it still costs you a hell of a lot more to get into the engine! I guess what I'm saying is that I think that your expectations are out of line. It sounds like your expecting to buy an engine, pay very little for it, never experience any issues and then have the piston, sleeve and rod last for 10 gallons without showing any type of wear! I can tell you without a doubt that the engine that will satisfy those requirements does not exist lol. Regarding your current engine if you think the compression is shot you might want to consider sending it to Ray Racing for a pinch, for 20 or so bucks it should be good for a couple more gallons. Regards, Ron |
Hdcruzer, I just noticed your updted to your post about the head. The cooling fins are not welded on, the cooling head is machined from a single block of billet aluminum, so there are no welds to break. In any case as with your "rod failure" that I addressed above when I mentioned that this was the first that I had heard of with a B5, this is again the first time that I have heard of this happening with a B5. Send me the head and i'm sure I have a used one from a team engine that I can swap you out with to get you back up and running.
Regards, Ron |
Originally Posted by Werks
(Post 7381936)
Hdcruzer, I just noticed your updted to your post about the head. The cooling fins are not welded on, the cooling head is machined from a single block of billet aluminum, so there are no welds to break. In any case as with your "rod failure" that I addressed above when I mentioned that this was the first that I had heard of with a B5, this is again the first time that I have heard of this happening with a B5. Send me the head and i'm sure I have a used one from a team engine that I can swap you out with to get you back up and running.
Regards, Ron |
Originally Posted by HR-1320
(Post 7381051)
Thanks for the reply, Unfortunately I have done exactly that you described. This thing can come in lean and mean idoling quite high as still have a idol change after a moment that will cuase it to stall. It can come in pinging cause its in need of a couple hours richer on the low and still stall. I'll take it apart , seal it and see.
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Ron, I also just wanted to let you know,the only other motor Ive run was a losi 454 . Great for bashing but a fuel hog when it comes to racing. So these are the only 2 motors Ive run for racing...... Im still new at the sport, been doing it for about 8 months now. So I havnt run a motor thats made for racing except these 2. Im still learning and thanks to you my learning curve has progressed very quickly...... Plus alot of the great guys I race with.....
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
(Post 7382134)
Ron, I also just wanted to let you know,the only other motor Ive run was a losi 454 . Great for bashing but a fuel hog when it comes to racing. So these are the only 2 motors Ive run for racing...... Im still new at the sport, been doing it for about 8 months now. So I havnt run a motor thats made for racing except these 2. Im still learning and thanks to you my learning curve has progressed very quickly...... Plus alot of the great guys I race with.....
Then honestly if your getting 6 gallons out of an engine you're doing well! If I had a dollar for each of the engines I blew up learning I'd be a wealthy man lol! All I can say is be thankfull you don't run 1/8th on-road, you'd be broke!! |
Ron,
Sent you a pm. |
Ok I took the thing out and noticed the front bearing is now leaking pretty bad. And it has no compression. which is prolly why it dies when hot. Is it worth it to get a pinch or should i buy new piston sleeve, or not worth it just get a new motor. Also why would it get out of tolerance so fast. If you ran it lean on the bottom to the point where it would come in and idol high and even detonate would that do it quickly. I of course adressed the issue when noticed but I won't lie that it didn't happen.
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Well, I had another flawless day of racing with my B7 yesterday can't be anymore stoked with the engine, all there is to do now is to get myself a B5 and give that a whirl, and Ron, as far as the fins breaking off, sirio heads did this all the time, at my local store there's the sirio graveyard with around 5 or 6 sirio heads with broken middle fins, I've seen a couple of speeds do this as well.
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I've had this happen on a GO motor when there wasn't enough clearance and the lexan repeatedly smacked into the head. I've since learned to cut the engine opening with a lot of extra space.
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