I broke mine in more or less by the heat cycle method, which is more or less the break-in bible way..

It went something like this: ALWAYS!!!!! Pre-heat engine to 180 but preferably 200 until at least 1 "FULL" gallon of fuel is through the motor. If temps start dropping while running the engine, use a heat gun or a sock or wrist band to keep temps up.. I idled 2 tanks on the bump box. I do mean idled, no blipping just increase idle screw or the Radio trim to keep it running. During the first 2 tanks I do not allow engine to run out of fuel. Kill it just as you start to hear the engine pick up RPM, toward end of tank. Idealy you wouldn't allow this ever, but as the pinch goes away it hurts less and less, as not as much lube is needed for the crank and wrist pins. Allow to cool completely between tanks. Tanks 3&4 were also on the box, with slight blips of throttle. Never more then 1/2 throttle, and never allow it really rev. Allow to cool Completely between tanks. Tanks 5&6 allowed for some for some driving. I leaned engine 1 hour on bottom and top, and drove Truggy around on the ground with a sock over head to keep temps up. The remaining tanks were done like this until I hit the 1/2 gallon mark. After the first 4 tanks on the box I never allowed it cool completely off, but I did use a heat gun before restarting. I then set Idle gap to just under 1mm, tuned low end for good idle, and leaned top for the longest striaght at the track I was at, which wasn't very long.. By the end of the first gallon metal to metal pinch was gone, with mega compression. I am only about 2 gallons in on this engine now, and I still need to set the idle gap to .5mm and retune.. Thinking I'll do that this weekend..

Good Luck and I hope this helps.. I know some of what I have said is spot on with the rest of the RC community and other parts not so much, but the first 500cc of fuel through your engine (first 4 tanks) are the most important, and they are the ones I don't ever change.. Keep it hot and break it in slowly..

King and Tebo engines are identical on the inside, only difference is the head, or writing on the head.. The Discovery is basically the same engine minus the ceramic bearings and CRF crank. Plus with the Tebo/King motors you get the pipe, certificate of authenticity, T-Shirt, and some other goodies..

Pipe selection depends on driving style, and buggy or truggy. For truggy most say 2013 or 2058. For buggy it is usually 2058 or 2057.

2013 provides the most bottom end of all 3 pipes, but lesser run time typically. 2058 has said to have slightly less bottom end and much mroe top end then the 2013. The 2057 has the least amount of bottom end, too little for truggy, IMO and not much fun in buggy either, again My opinion. But the top end on the 2057 is insane.. If you have a really long staight, or don't mind gearing your buggy down the 2057 is a good pipe.

Thanks

Thanks for the advice mate. This looks pretty much the same as I've done it in the past. Here's what I'm thinking this time. Let me know what you think.

1. Heat engine and chassis with heat gun to around 200.
2. Start motor with a "slightly" higher idle (if needed) just so it keeps running.
3. If engine stalls after glow driver removed, lean LSN one hour (plug should be fine as it's brand new) and restart.
4. Plonk it on the ground and drive it. No more than 1\4 throttle and short smooth blips. Adjust H\LSN to give smooth transition from idle->mid.
5. Run 2-3 minutes (no more) for total of about 15 minutes.
6. Run 3-4 minutes (no more) for a total of about 25 minutes. Lean slightly between each run. Drive a little harder each run. Vary throttle and add some WOT for short bursts.
7. Track time and race tune.
Cool between each cycle and heat gun before each start.

What do you all think?
Thanks.

That should work, but you might want to run it a tad longer to make sure teh engine gets heat soaked. I've seen it take a full 5 minutes before..

What should my crank pin size be on my us spec?

What glow plugs for the discovery engine

+1 what is everyone running in these motors. I just ordered on gonna be breaking it in this week

The Orion turbo #5 and #6 plugs are excelent and is probably what most are running in their Orion engines.

As an alternative you can use Sirio 5/6, Werks 5/6, Nvision 5/6 plugs as they are all made by LM and have the same taper - and are excelent plugs aswell.

The Alpha CRF ABI 3 Port Ceramic is a Great Engine so far, broke in SO easy 180-190 and the carb was ice cold. Very fast already with the 2057, I'm running OS plugs in it. After the next race or so I'll determine wheather I'll keep running OS or stick with the Orions, I can get a good deal on the Orions and they so far are awesome.

Also I have a question are these engines Picco based or Sirio?

Thanks

Andy

The Alpha line is Sirio/Starmotor based, or actually LM based. This is the factory that produces Orion, Sirio, Werks and Nvision. Reds aswell but looks like Mario Rossi is with Picco now looking at his new onroad engine :confused:

100% correct information..

I think what alot of people forget is that LM took over Starmotor, and they still call Orion, Werks, etc. Sirio based, which in a round about way they are, but since LM has started making engines the quality has gone way up, and the power is as good or better then ever..

My Point is we should all refer to them as LM based/manufactured enignes..

My 2058 pipe has not come in so i am going to have to run my discovery with my os 2050 dont know how that will work out but wont be expecting much since motor is fresh out of breakin will hit the track for first time with it Saturday
it only has the 40 mins of heat cycle runs through it

Lets us know how it works out with the 2050 pipe.The jp3 works pertty good that im using and not bad run time ethier.between 9:30 to 10:15 med size track. stock insert no holding back.

The OS 2050 might be one of the best all around pipes available. It should work well.
I'm getting well over 10 in my truggy with a 2013.. Jp3 for me was always a gas hog.