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Team Orion Engines
Hello guys. Just starting a thread to include all the Alpha ABI (Adrien Bertien Influenced) engines soon to be available from Team Orion. We were very happy at Nitro Challenge with the .24 five port in truggy, and the .21 three port in buggy. The .24 is a nice blend of power, driveability, and fuel mileage. Anyhow, we'll post in here about experiences with the engines. The 3 port we used at Nitro Challenge has been the club engine now, and I tell you, it just gets better every day we run it. These engines are going to have some serious durability, I can assure you. Just keep your air cleaner fresh, and they'll run a LONG time. Next stop Silver State with the same two engines.
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Paul, are the internals the same as the Picco based Orion CRF.21?? Could you post some pictures of the internals????
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Originally Posted by lockmouth
(Post 5541624)
Paul, are the internals the same as the Picco based Orion CRF.21?? Could you post some pictures of the internals????
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What style pipe have you tried on it?? low, med, high ?? I run the crf rite now, but am looking forward to this engine..
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I have been running the .21 Alpha engine since the CRCRC event. It has great bottom and top along with incredible fuel mileage. Highly recommended.
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When is the release date?
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Hey Pitpop I'm currently running a Sirio Evo III, and was wanting to know if the power and reponse with the alpha .21 will be similar. I run a 2013 pipe and would probably do the same. Love the Sirio power and fuel mileage and that's just after running one race after break in and the new alpha looks good.
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Hi guys.
The EVO III is a cousin to the Alpha, but different. The EVO III is a bit of a beast, especially for a buggy. Probably too much motor for a buggy, but just about right for a truggy. The Alpha 3 port is what I think is the perfect match for the new generation of buggys. Smooth power band, good mileage, and good top end. We tried the OS 2050, and we thought is was good on the 3 port, but since we tested the 2013 again, we like the 2013 better. The internals are very different than CRF. The break-in is very much like the Sirio. You need to be patient and really put some time on the engine. |
pitpop do you know when the orion alapha engines will be realced and how much will they cost? let me know. thanks
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Joe Pillars told me they should be available the middle of April. Not sure on pricing yet.
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I'm not sure on price, but I know the aim is to be very competitive. The rumor is it will be the most affordable pro level engine with ceramic bearings, but we will see.
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Originally Posted by pitpop
(Post 5577286)
I'm not sure on price, but I know the aim is to be very competitive. The rumor is it will be the most affordable pro level engine with ceramic bearings, but we will see.
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...we only have one he's been running, it's got some fuel through it :lol:
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horizon has stock Alphas listed for $224 thats a sweet deal.... CRF US spec $469:eek:
but if the ABI Alpha's are are arround $300 that would be awesome |
There is Only One REAL "Alpha" Engine :)
Hey guys. Just wanted to revive this thread. It's really the only Team Orion "Alpha" thread that is labeled as such, and covers the whole spectrum of engines, parts, pipes, and plugs available.
As most people already know, Horizon Hobby is distributing the products. The link to some of the engines is here: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ORI80647 Any and all topics about these engines can be covered here. The MTE (Truhe Edition), tuning, plugs, pipes, performance, fuel mileage... whatever. This is a Worlds year, so I think you will see some extra testing and lots of information coming from the team guys, including Truhe, Tebo, Cody, Ronnefalk, Pudge, Adrien and all the other team drivers. That's a lot of experience to get the engines in the winners circle. We feel that we have the package and support to win world class level races, and won't hesitate sharing that information. Hope to see you here on the thread... :) - PK |
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR
Merry Christmas Team Orion ALPHA thread! :)
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I have got a couple of the CRF wasp US Spec engines. My question is what Orion product if any, is considered to be the replacement for the CRF wasp US spec? Does anyone have references for max HP on the different models? Is it true that the CRF wasp has been, or will eventually be replaced by the ABI line?
Thanks to all, |
Originally Posted by lk
(Post 6770247)
I have got a couple of the CRF wasp US Spec engines. My question is what Orion product if any, is considered to be the replacement for the CRF wasp US spec? Does anyone have references for max HP on the different models? Is it true that the CRF wasp has been, or will eventually be replaced by the ABI line?
Thanks to all, |
Hi Paul, Could you clarify something for me, Cody's set up from the Fall classic says 5 port. Is this a misprint? What one is Tebo using 3 or 5 port? Also are you guys still using a 2013 pipe? How is the 3 port runtime?
Thanks in advance |
Originally Posted by Dyno-Dylan
(Post 6771173)
Hi Paul, Could you clarify something for me, Cody's set up from the Fall classic says 5 port. Is this a misprint? What one is Tebo using 3 or 5 port? Also are you guys still using a 2013 pipe? How is the 3 port runtime?
Thanks in advance |
Thanks, I appreciate all of your help with info regarding Kyosho and Orion products!
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not a problem man, glad to do it... :nod:
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3 Port Options
Hey guys, after a couple inquires about these 3 port engines, I wanted to say that the standard Alpha 3 port is a great option at a screaming good price. I mean there is no way you will find an Italian made engine this good for 200 bucks! IMO the ABI version with the ceramic bearing and turbo button is a great deal as well, but you just can't go wrong either way. Here are some links to the two items:
Standard: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Standard-Plug ABI: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ine-Turbo-Plug |
I think these engines are very good quality for sure. I had one of the first gen's in the summer of 08' and like it a lot! But I've heard these new ABI's are not getting the mileage.. I had heard that putting a grp carb will do the trick...and I think its true. A buddy of mine just got the ABI a few weeks ago and was only getting about 7 1/2-8 min.. He took his old carb off of his old ninja(not the jx) and bam.. 9-9 1/2 min. But I'm still looking into getting another one as soon as my Werks is done..
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Originally Posted by Nyk
(Post 6774610)
I think these engines are very good quality for sure. I had one of the first gen's in the summer of 08' and like it a lot! But I've heard these new ABI's are not getting the mileage.. I had heard that putting a grp carb will do the trick...and I think its true. A buddy of mine just got the ABI a few weeks ago and was only getting about 7 1/2-8 min.. He took his old carb off of his old ninja(not the jx) and bam.. 9-9 1/2 min. But I'm still looking into getting another one as soon as my Werks is done..
Personally I love my Orions, they are very well built and stubbornly reliable. I sold my Nova after running one for the first time. |
Hey look, a thread for the REAL Alpha engines. :nod:
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Saw these guys at the Nitrocross this weekend, they had some pretty cool stuff. ALOT of factory guys already running their stuff at this race. Found this link on the nitro pit website. Their website says coming soon.
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Originally Posted by gidproju
(Post 6776706)
Saw these guys at the Nitrocross this weekend, they had some pretty cool stuff. ALOT of factory guys already running their stuff at this race. Found this link on the nitro pit website. Their website says coming soon.
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:lol:... well... now that you mention NITROCROSS... yes TEAM ORION ALPHA did kick major butt at the race, sweeping both Invite classes and 3rd and 4th also in the invite buggy class, so yea, you're right that top pros win with TEAM ORION ALPHA engines at the NitroPit :D
Nyk, it's true for sure that different carbs CAN get better mileage. If you wanted to do it, you could put a .12 carb on an engine and it would run for 15 minutes, but in that case it would probably suffer in the power department. That being said, the MTE engine has a new cast aluminum carb with improved reliability and mileage while still providing good power. |
Pitpop, do you of any difference between the Werks 2013 pipe to the Orion 2013 pipe?? and you may have already said it but what pipe are you guys running?
Reason why I ask is that I'm running werks 2013 now.. and most likely I'll be getting another Orion when the time comes. |
Pyro, for sure the are very reliable! I was very happy with mine first gen and my buddy so far is very happy with his abi.:nod:
I prolly shouldn't have strayed away from the Orion line.... |
Originally Posted by Nyk
(Post 6777434)
Pitpop, do you of any difference between the Werks 2013 pipe to the Orion 2013 pipe?? and you may have already said it but what pipe are you guys running?
Reason why I ask is that I'm running werks 2013 now.. and most likely I'll be getting another Orion when the time comes. |
cool thanks pitpop!
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Originally Posted by pitpop
(Post 6771091)
I'm not sure if the Alpha is going to replace the US Spec, but the focus right now is definitely on the Alpha ABI/MTE engines. I think the most comparable engine to the US Spec is the MTE engine because it's a 5 port. We prefer the 3 port, but a lot of people want the 5 port because it makes more power? Personally I prefer the added fuel mileage, we don't need more power. :p
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Originally Posted by lk
(Post 6779368)
On our tracks we generally agree that 9 minutes is repectable, assuming you have the power to clear the triple jumps. I am currently running the .21 in a 1/8 TT using the smallest ventury and generaly make a pit between 9.5 and 10 minutes, however I admit that my son gets almost another minute... Newer motor or better hands... Anyways there is a craze over here about some new motor creating 2.8 hp!! I would appreciate details on the wasp us spec power range, as the www nor the papers in the box give exact details. Thanx
SO what am I saying here? sometimes less is more.... :lol: Let me also add that the Orion Alpha engines are high quality Italian engines with very durable and high quality materials inside. They NEED to be broken in completely to make maximum power. You will not be able to take it out of the shrink wrap and run 4 tanks through it and get maximum rpms like a cheaper made engine. |
Originally Posted by pitpop
(Post 6780309)
SO what am I saying here? sometimes less is more.... :lol:
They NEED to be broken in completely to make maximum power. You will not be able to take it out of the shrink wrap and run 4 tanks through it and get maximum rpms like a cheaper made engine. Assuming that my WASP US spec isnīt too powerfull for the MBX6 TT...:lol: LOL |
Originally Posted by lk
(Post 6783403)
Hi PIT POP, I apreciate your information. Just one more question, since you brought up the point... What is your recomendation for the ideal break in to get full power?
Assuming that my WASP US spec isnīt too powerfull for the MBX6 TT...:lol: LOL I have to be clear here because I don't want to mislead anyone, that the extended break in method applies more to the Alpha line, not so much with the US Spec. We never felt the need to take extended break in with the US Spec. It is made in a completely different plant and a totally different animal than the Alpha line. As far as specific methods for breaking in the Alpha, just start the engine and get the tune close on the box, but keep it on the rich side. Just start running figure eights in a parking lot and do that for about 4 or 5 tanks. Make sure the idle is laying down and consistent. If it's not, you might have to seal something up or put a spring on the carb. We always seal up the carbs really well. After that just run it on the track making sure it's slightly on the rich side until you get several bottles of fuel through it. In between runs make sure the piston is at BDC and let it cool all the way down. You can race tune it and have fun, but just don't cook it. From that point you need to be patient and not expect too much RPMs until the piston loosens up. It takes at least a gallon, maybe two. After that, it will be nearly impervious to damage. Turn in the screws and let it eat. You could be lean bogging on the track and as long as you richen it up in a lap or two it will be ok. The first paradigm most people need to abandon is "pinch is important"... it's not! You don't want any pinch binding your Alpha. Run it until the fit is loose, then you will be rewarded. As long as your tune is consistent & the idle is solid, you are in good shape. Cody's race engines for Worlds or Nats have minimum 2 gallons through them. Thanks for the question, I like sharing the info on here. |
Originally Posted by SteveP
(Post 6776607)
Hey look, a thread for the REAL Alpha engines. :nod:
LOL LOL:lol: |
Great information! What is your preferred method to seal the carb?
I think I mislead a bit by adding TT. I compete in the .21 class with the buggy. Trucks are around, but only for bashing. Maybe next year there will be enough to get some races going. In the meantime any serious offroaders looking to race have to stay with the buggy's. Best regards and have a great new year! |
Originally Posted by pitpop
(Post 6783900)
I doubt that very much :lol: you can use a lot of power in a truggy, but it's still possible to have too much...
I have to be clear here because I don't want to mislead anyone, that the extended break in method applies more to the Alpha line, not so much with the US Spec. We never felt the need to take extended break in with the US Spec. It is made in a completely different plant and a totally different animal than the Alpha line. As far as specific methods for breaking in the Alpha, just start the engine and get the tune close on the box, but keep it on the rich side. Just start running figure eights in a parking lot and do that for about 4 or 5 tanks. Make sure the idle is laying down and consistent. If it's not, you might have to seal something up or put a spring on the carb. We always seal up the carbs really well. After that just run it on the track making sure it's slightly on the rich side until you get several bottles of fuel through it. In between runs make sure the piston is at BDC and let it cool all the way down. You can race tune it and have fun, but just don't cook it. From that point you need to be patient and not expect too much RPMs until the piston loosens up. It takes at least a gallon, maybe two. After that, it will be nearly impervious to damage. Turn in the screws and let it eat. You could be lean bogging on the track and as long as you richen it up in a lap or two it will be ok. The first paradigm most people need to abandon is "pinch is important"... it's not! You don't want any pinch binding your Alpha. Run it until the fit is loose, then you will be rewarded. As long as your tune is consistent & the idle is solid, you are in good shape. Cody's race engines for Worlds or Nats have minimum 2 gallons through them. Thanks for the question, I like sharing the info on here. |
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