nothing is different between the cody king and the previous year Orion engines. I checked the cranks they are the same, the pistons, the sleeves everything is the same, so I took apart my 2012 factory team engine and it is ALSO the same! I didn't just eyeball, but I used calipers and a micrometer as well. Funny thing was I also noticed that the cody king engine had 7 ports not 5??????? I also checked the piston and sleeve diameter the cody king has about 2 gallons on it, the piston and everything still looked like new, my 8 gallon old 7 port Orion had tons of carbon and wear marks but..... the piston was a thousandth bigger than the cody king piston so.... I put the cody king crank in the 7 port case, used the cody king sleeve and the 7 port piston and carb, the engine runs better than before! I still don't understand why the cody king advertised as a 5 port had 7 ports and 1 exhaust port. I also took my stock Losi engine apart and use the 7 port orion turbo button and put it on the losi engine block, the holes were close, not perfect but everything screwed down tight and let me tell you putting a turbo plug on a stock 350 losi makes night and day difference!

I didnt think any of them were true 7 port engines... I thought they were 5 +2.... 5 intake ports and 2 bypass ports ? mind sharing a picture ?

I think you are right i counted 7 ports and the big exhaust but 2 were probably bypass ports will take a pic tonight after work though

...
 

Did the bearing look okay? Mine looks and feels okay, but when I shot some Nitro clean at the flywheel when it is running it keeps running, but starts running like a dog making me think that the front bearing is the issue and is sucking in air. Thanks for the assistance.

I saw Pit Pop posted an answer to this but for the life of me I could not figure out which part of the answer told when you need to replace the con rod or how to spot a bad one. Would you be so kind as to say It a different way so I could understand it? I have an abi 24 and I was thinking I lost pinch but the compression is still good. But, it has been run long and hard and started flaming out like it was shot. What I do note is that with the plug out there feels like a dead spot at tdc. If that is how u spot a worn con rod, is there an affordable alternative? E.g reconditioning?

Sorry for the late response.

My front seal must have got messed up by some debris getting between teh flywheel and bearing. At first glance it looked fine, but when i touched the seal, it moved a lil showing a huge tear. Then when i opened up the engine, it looked like one of those pretty Sandstone mountain side formations from the red dirt at our track.

... when it rains it pours.
 

Thanks for the info.

My luck has not been that great lately. I dropped my Truhe motor in ti runand the air screw broke. I see the part number for it is no longer available. Anyone know if the air screw from another motor will work. I was looking at ORI81997. Looks the same in the photos I have seen.

It should be the same, most of the orion parts interchange. I know the insides are same specs maybe different design but main parts like con rod, piston sleeve size crank bearings are all the same for a few years at least

I have slop at the bottom end of my con rod of my alpha .24 . I am assuming it is the bushing and not the crank. Does any one know a low cost alternative or if it can be re-bushed. I do not want to spend $100 bucks on an other wise used motor and the cost of doing all the internals justifies buying a new .25.

Bump. Anyone?

Sounds like you just need to replace the rod if compression is good.....

Ok I tried my os world spec II con rod. It needs to be narrowed at the bottom slightly but otherwise fits perfectly. At less than half the price it should solve my problem. Used my Dremel on the bottom of the rod and it came out perfect. Now I can run it till it needs a pinch.

The last two days I was breaking in a CRF REV .28 I had in sitting around.
I have about a half gallon on it now and I can't get it to idle steady.Its fluctuates up and down slightly then drops and stalls.When I lean the bottom to stop the 2 stage idle its to lean on bottom and starts pinging for a few seconds after the throttle is opened and closed.If I try to close the idle gap and richen the bottom it two stage idles and dies.I have tuned a lot of engines over the past few years and I have not had a problem unless I am tuning around a problem.I changed the plug,tank.lines.The engine is still tight.The needles are so touchy I think the carb is just crap.Anyone know a decent carb that will fit this engine?:confused:

I have had same problem with my Orion engines I just got to point to where i let it ping at idle. It runs great like that just will never idle right. The carbs are way to touchy

Just got my first Orion motor. It is the combo with the 80679 engine and the 2058 pipe.. What do I do as far as shims go for 30%.

Thanks!