RePeTe, you know the runtime of orion 5 port an 3 port,

for example runtime 5 port 10minutes, runtime 3 port 12 minutes, in the same conditions.

no i do not, i have no experience with the 5 port other than stealing the High Speed Needle off it.

The mileage differences will probably be small in most peoples hands. My guess is that they just deliver power a little differently.

I just picked up a B321T that I plan to run all next year in buggy. I wont be able to provide any feed back on runtimes for a while though.

I remember that.

5 port,40sec track,traction mid to high,cosmo 30%,orion 5 plug,6.5mm venturi,2058 pipe.Headshim std.runtime was 12min till dry,temp 114 degree celcius.

Quick question my cody king engine is a POS point blank i cant get it to run an entire tank of fuel without it dying and i tried everything accept a new case and internals. It has less than 2 gallons on it. I have the new 5 port factory team i get 12 minutes on it and my old 7 port was getting 11 and it had over 8 gallons on it.

Now to the question the 7 port is too old can i put the cody king enternals into the 7 port case? Can i just put the piston sleve and rod in? Or do i need to do it all?

The cody king never would run from the start i think i might have got 7 minutes without a flameout maybe 3 times. First time during break in on the box it died. Orion hasnt stood behind their product at all not even 1 email reply. There are 3 cody king engines in vietnam and all 3 the same because of this orion is dead here i am the only one to try it again and that is because my 7 port was so good.

Did you try change carburator?And how many head shim you're running?

Yes, changed carb,fuel,plugs,fuel tanks,entire cars,re shimmed it,took one out added a shim,back to stock,different head button fuel line, new orings, we even took it apart to examine it. It looked like new, i am sure i am forgetting something but we really have tried, hell i had all 3 for about a month all the same. Sometimes it runs 4 minutes then 2 or 3 none run a full tank only 1 ran decent at the start but it lasted less than 2 gallons before it started messing up. I sent over 20 emails to orion and many to amain but amain said talk to orion. I even offered to send it back and pay to have it looked at and fixed i just wanted to know wtf was wrong with it but they havent replied one single time

Mmmmm........Seen you had try every method.........What is the temp you are running?Orion engine are best at below 120 degree,but too lean at top also can cause the problem even the temp stay at below 120 degree.
I had many Orion engine ,King that had carburator problem,2 MTE that run great,1 Tebo that i keeping(Given by Tebo)and now 5 port team.

I would break down the 7-port and CK ed. and compare them. If they look similar, try puting 5 port parts in the 7 port case.

when the piston and sleeve are out of the engine how high does the piston travel up the sleeve before it sticks ? if the piston can go above the TDC line the engine needs to be pinched.....

The 7 port needs a pinch but they don't do that here in Vietnam, at least none of the people I have talked to have mentioned it. RC in Vietnam is still in its infancy it is really hard to get parts, everything has to be ordered, only 2 shops actually order pistons and sleeve combo's when they order engines, and neither of these shops sell Orion engines, actually after the run in with 3 bad Cody King engines NO shop sells Orion engines now, you have to special order them because no one will buy them. The only reason I am asking about changing the internals is I have heard a few Orions had their cases crack and it causes the same problems that I am talking about.

Temp on the Cody Kings when I had all 3 they got up to about 240 degrees, occasionally they would see 250-260 hell we even had all the people turning cars out there with heat guns so when they did die we could make sure it wasn't because it was too lean on the top causing it to get hot. As I said though from the first tank that ever went through mine it wouldn't even idle a tank of fuel through, and I know the first time it wasn't even to 200 degrees when it died the first time. The damn things die at all different times, sometimes they die in mid air, some times on a throttle pull, sometimes at an idle, sometimes when holding the throttle steady (not full throttle.) I even went as far as to get colored chalk and when I started my engine I put it on my flywheel to make sure it wasn't hitting things on the track when it was flaming out. I can't speak for the other 2 cody kings as how hot they have been, but I know for a fact mine has never been over 260, at least never to my knowledge (and I use a temp gun regularly) I even started using my Spektrum remote with heat temp when I was having so many problems instead of my Ko Pro Po (still verified with temp gun)!

Orion discovery motor issues
 

Hello,


I have an Orion discovery motor in my buggy. It has about 2 gallons on it. It has run like a champ until recently. It still runs good, but it's like there is an air leak I cannot find. Once it is warmed up and I bring it in to top off before a heat, I rev it up and its like the carb is sticking wide open or close to it, but the carb is not stuck open. It is closed. I have swapped out the tank, fuel lines, fuel filter and it still does the same thing. When on the track if you hit a jump wide open its almot like the throttle is sticking in the air, but it's not. It wants to idle a little high no matter what I do. I have had a few folks at my local track take a shot and they do not have much luck either. They seem to think it is an airlean somewhere also. Possible carb seal issue? Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

Maybe your front bearing. On my discovery, my front bearing got gauled up by something and I never even knew it. Just sucked in air and dirt, not a drop of oil leaked out.

I have a Discovery 3 ports with a gallon of Byron on it and had a similar issue with a glow plug that was near to dead.... (O.S.P3), when i changed it with a new one everything stopped.

Mine runs fine even if seems not possible to tune it at 100% when is at a good point there is no way to make it perfect it's always a little bit too rich or lean and going from rich to lean or vice versa is a matter of mm on the HSN/LSN.
Now that i know i prefer to run it a little bit rich. I raced it yesterday at a club race and it was great all day long up to a 30 min final without a single flame out.
I tuned more than one engine in the past (o.s. in particular) but never had this kind of "issue". Some time ago i completely sealed it but this didn't changed his behaviour..... :confused:

WWD
:)