Verify the engine has compression by trying to spin the flywheel with one finger from under the car. It should rather resistive from rotating completely. If not, that's your problem.

Since that engine is low mileage, hopefully compression is fine.

Put a new glow plug in before you do anything else. You can double check your old one by taking it out and putting the ignitor on it. All coils must light. Especially the very last one near the opening and it must light all the way. Regardless, toss it and put a new one in there.

Verify that when the throttle servo is at neutral, the collar that the servo pushes on that opens the carb has a gap to the sevo horn assembly. The collar should not be touching the servo horn assmebly. (Not exactly to cure the problem you're having, but just in case it was described wrong. If the collar is resting on the servo horn assembly and the idle speed screw is too low, once you go to brake, the horn will close the carb more and it'll die).

Make sure you have a clean and new airfilter, no more than double foams.

Make sure the head screws are tight and back plate screws are tight.

Make sure both exhaust gaskets are in good condition and springs are tight.

Make sure there are no kinks or even moderately tight bends in the fuel or pressure lines.

With the air filter off and venturi out, measure the idle gap to about .5mm, no less. Use calipers to measure a staple or paper clip and then use that to set the gap.

Reset the low speed needle to flush and high speed needle about one turn in from flush. Preheat the engine to 200 degrees and start it. Get the engine good and warmed up on the box using a heat gun and by revving the motor then using the brake. Try and keep it at 200 degrees.

Move to the track. Have your heat gun and starter box and ignitor and fuel bottle with you. Using the straight run it back and forth at wide open throttle. The bottom end may be really rich at this point and it may not want to clear out and could load up and die. If it is obviously too rich on the bottom to where it loads up and dies from a stand still, you can lean it an hour at a time until it stays on. Quickly feathering in the throttle can help to get the car moving with out dying. If it doesn't die, go straight to the high speed needle.

Working on only the high speed needle gun the car up and down the straight. Don't worry about response from a stand still at all at this point. Only focus on the top end scream. If the top end doesn't clear out, lean the top end needle an hour at a time until it does. Once it does, move on to the low speed needle.

The low speed needle- after a high speed pass on the straight, bring the car to a stop without giving it any gas to manuever the car. Let it sit for eight seconds. During this time, the engine is loading up. Gun it. The car will probably sputter and pull off really slow. Lean the bottom 1 hour. Go up and down the straight at high speed, let the car sit for 8 seconds, gun it and see if you need to lean it another hour. Repeat this until the car pulls off with authority.

The idle screw works with the low speed needle to control the idle, but since the gap is already set a .5mm it should be more or less where it needs to be.

Your starter box and patience will get you there.

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I ripped the engine apart and I am replacing the rear bearing as it appears to be bad. Well I would if I could find the rear bearing. ORI81850 ALPHA 21 - Rear Bearing 14.2 mm. Not able to find that in stock anywhere yet.

call Lance at RcRenew.com and see if he has the bearing you need. He pinches sleeves on engines and inspects them, modifies them, changes bearings etc. How did you determine the rear bearing was bad?

Has anyone purchased a 321 factory(ORI80691) recently? Does it come with a black cooling head or red? The orion site shows black but retailers show red in the pics.

I ordered one from TeamOrionShop and it was a black head.

Thanks

Just had my first try at a lightly used cody king ltd edition crf in my rc8 truggy.
great engine. very impressed. 12 min run on a little rich tune. 25% nitro x. 80 deg celcius. Floating the front down the straight. Easy to start and lays down on idle.
Looks like im stuck on orion now.
Great work team orion:nod:

For anyone running the 2014 crf 3port factory tuned or the RS euro champion motor, can you tell me how it compares to other motors you've tried. I was at a race this weekend and got to watch reno savoya run his orion powered Xray. The motor sounded awesome and ran flawlessly. I'm just wondering why I don't see anyone in my area running theses motors? I race in the northeast area.

I think it's a great motor. Comparing it to the OS Speed SPEC I and II (which I ran before this one), I would go for the Orion 3-port all day.

Everything else being equal (runtime, ease of tuning, power), I found the Orion significantly more controllable. Sure, I could have tamed the OS w/ tuning or clutch setups, but I've got the Orion tuned for kill and can use ALL the power, anywhere on the track. The Orion power doesn't sneak up on me and I know where the end point is. With the OS, it seemed to pull forever-which is sweet- but it made it unpredictable when trying to determine speed/break points/etc...

Now, the Orion 5-port is a whole other issue. That thing is a dumpster fire as I'm struggled for power and easy tuning. Oh well, one out of two isn't bad...

i used both , the Factory tuned and the RS 3 ports.

I used the RS 3 ports during my last race and 3 days racing without a single glitch.

The RS 3 ports has a tremendous power , very linear , a very good bottom and very decent top speed.

Fuel efficiency is good and manage to pit at 9 minutes and i have a 10.30 to 10.45 runtime.

One of my good friend is using the RS 5 ports and he is more than happy with this engine and already completed 3 races. The engine still have a very compression.

i used also the Factory and sorry to say that the gap is significant between the 2 engines and my Factory did not last long unfortunately.

I am using also the Alpha Lutz and Dragon and difficult to compare engines together , but regarding the pro & cons , the Orion RS has a better fuel efficiency for sure (even the 5 ports RS) and the running temperature is far lower compare to the Lutz (130 to 140 celcius for the Lutz and only 105 to 107 celcius for the RS 3 ports) . after saying that both brands are not so bad at all.

if you have the choice, go for the RS 3 or 5 ports IMHO.

Cheers

Is the 2058 the pipe everyone is running?

Yup. I run it on both the 3-port and 5-port. However, been doing some research on the 5-port and saw setup sheets where Dakotah and Ryan C were running the 2013.

Yes 2058 pipe

does anyone use these engines anymore? thread is dead

Just about to crack my new Orion 5port engine, internally they look very well made, Just so people Know, make sure you strip your new engine BEFORE you start it, I found metal inside, as with all engines, sometimes they miss particles!! With OS and Nova ive found the same, so before starting your new INVESTMENT, take the time to clean it properly! Now let the fun begin!!