I have The same discovery 3 ports and i Just did my first gallon but it seems to work fine and strong. The only "issue" i have is on the carb setting i struggle a little to find a perfect setting. I had only os engines before and they are a lot easier.
WWD
:)

Perhaps the people that told you that you were getting one engine, when in fact you got another, and that you've given such implicit trust, ARE the reason you've had trouble with the engine. You'll find hundreds of people here that get 10+ gallons of fuel from the Orion engines and others that come from the same facility. If you only got one gallon, there's a slight chance that something went wrong, but it's more likely that someone involved in the process of breaking in and tuning this engine, caused its demise.

+1 Even with my crappy Cody King engine that can't run 1 tank of fuel without flaming out it still runs great until the flame out. If any engine only lasts 1 gallon then there had to be something wrong from the factory or during break in the wrong way, or a bad tune that ended it prematurely.

Engines don't cause flame outs. They either run or they don't. Flame outs are generally caused by bad tune, bad plug, or bad fuel. It could also be bad clutch bearing, bad clutch, flywhee hitting the ground, etc., etc., etc. once the engine starts and runs for long enough to reach running temp, I can assure you it's NOT the engine.

Thanks for all the help guys, ive sent my engine back to the fella i bought it off and will be getting replaced.

HELLO, have a small issue with my orion crf .21 5 port, it ran great saturday for the first 3 to 5 minutes then started high reving when i would stop and bogged on lowend power, it dint cut out just bogged. engine has less than a gallon on it. when it high revs when i stop it sounds like a full size car hitting the governer, kinda like weee.....ne....ne....ne....ne.....LMAO, sorry but hard to make sound effects while typeing, wife gave me a funny look. anyways.....any ideas?

sounds like a lean bog maybe ?

Usually you are correct, but there are times when the tune is correct and nothing is hitting the flywheel on the ground. My engine would not even run a full tank from factory settings on break in without it quitting. This was from the start, I have checked temp when it dies not too hot, sometimes it dies before it even gets to 200 degrees, sometimes it dies at 220, sometimes at 140. It dies on the starter box, it dies on the asphalt it dies in the grass, or on the dirt. I have tuned it, I have had countless people tune it, nothing works for long. It was fired on a brand new tank with all new fuel lines, the same fuel used in it when it keeps quitting is the same fuel I am getting 11 minutes from my 7 port Orion engine. I know it is NOT my fuel system because EVERY engine I have can run over 30 minutes without quitting on EVERY car I have. I have tried my cody king on my brand new Losi truggy, losi buggy, Mugen buggy, we even tried it on a brand new xb9 mill. I have put 3 different flywheels on it, one brand new from Horizon, changed all the clutch springs, changed all the carb o-rings, taken the engine apart and inspected everything. There is not even any blackening on the top or sides of the piston it still looks brand new. I did the same break in as I have done on ALL my other engines and ALL my other engines run fine. I know fully sponsored on road drivers that have tried to tune it for me to no avail. Huston helped a bit and I was able to get a little better run time out of it and occasionally now I can get almost a full tank run through, but usually it dies within 2 minutes or less. I have offered to send it back to Orion for them to look at without ANY replies from them, I am not asking for a new motor or anything, I just want to know what the hell is wrong with it. If something is bad then I will replace it at my cost, but Orion has NOT stood behind ANY of their products with regards to me. Maybe others have had better luck but I have had zero responses for help. The ONLY responses I have ever received was when I posted asking for help on their facebook page I was told NOT to post there to email to customer support. I was also told they would try to find someone to help that was about a month ago and no other responses. I have 3 Orion engines all 3 run great when running, and for 2 of them that is ALL the time but for the Cody King that has NEVER happened.

FYI If something is bent or not in correct tolerances from the factory the ENGINE CAN cause its own stall. When things get warm they expand, it could be a bad bearing that when it gets hot or warm it locks for a split second, it could be a bur on the crank that can catch, there are tons of things that have NOTHING to do with a bad tune or a rough landing can cause.

I had a similar problem years back with an engine dying and getting hot, I found a crack in the engine case, threw it in the trash and have not had any problems with it since then.

Have you tried sealing up the engine?

Yes, I have tried everything I can think of accept for checking all the parts with precision measuring tools. I have sealed the engine, changed o-rings in the carb, replaced the carb with one from a different Orion, new fuel system from tank to lines, new exhaust, different mills, fuel cooler, no fuel cooler, extra fuel filter no extra fuel filter, taken out shims added shims, new glow plugs, different fuel, different flywheels, collets, new clutch springs, new shoes. Hell I even changed the head button out with the new one from my 2012 Orion CRF 5 port. The only thing that seemed to work but it still isn't reliable was what Monty told me to do and take the carb out, blow through the fuel line, then take the needles out and blow through the line again, and then to clean all the needles and reassemble it. After doing this I was able to get my first tank of fuel through the engine, however shortly after the first tank the same problem all over again. I once again did what he said but this time I put an entirely new fuel system on the car, new tank and lines. Sometimes it can run about 5 minutes or half a tank, other times hardly at all. I have never checked my temp and found it over 250, I think the highest was like 248. When it dies it usually starts right back up no problem. The saddest thing in the world is that this engine is awesome when it is running. It is wicked fast on the straights, tons of low end power and literally pulls away from all the other engines on the track, even the new OS Speed's and 7 port Novarossi's

Have you tried using a different exhaust pipe? At times pipes can build up oil and residue, the pressure nipple becomes plugged up, therefore inconsistent pressure to the fuel tank.

Hi Jerome: you may have tried this already... I am/was having the same issues with my Team Orion, sounds identical really, I did some of the things you mentioned and got some run time then went back to flame outs. Here is what I did recently and got about 20 full tanks through. I did this because I was fed up with the motor and didn't care about it, I would try anything.

I was fed up with flame outs after 2mins too, I was trying to tune low end to .5-1mm idle gap but no longer cared just wanted to run. A friend suggested to run it at a higher idle speed and rich-en up the LSN. Did this to run a full tank with out flame outs.

I made sure it was spitting fuel at high idle had some 1.1 clutch springs and O'Donnell 77t Hot plug on the car, so idle is pretty high. I started with LSN 5 1/2 turns out and HSN at 4 1/2 turns out from bottom (LSN looks flush) and rich-end LSN from there (about 1 1/2 - 2 turns out) Because it was so rich, it was hard to get the engine to 180 deg, but I ran it and it didn't flame out, I ran it a lot and ran it hard to get the temp up to 208. Also, as I got the temp up to 200 I would re-tune to that temp so it idled high but not as high as it was at lower temp, now it wasn't ideal but it didn't flame out which was what I was trying to do. Oh fuel mileage was poor as you can guess, had thick blue smoke everywhere, I ran it for about 20 tanks. Had some fun finally.

Now, it would load up with fuel pretty quickly and had to feather the throttle to clear and get to some power; it was there, had to work at getting to it. I thought this is where it had to live.

Not settled yesterday, I got motivated to try tuning again just not so rich and not as high a idle, just to try and get better fuel mileage. It was time to change glow plug this time O'Donnell 97t medium. Again, I set LSN 5 1/2 turns out and HSN at 4 1/2 turns out from bottom, this time closed the idle gap down a bit (don't know the gap looks like 1mm),

Goal:
*a med-high idle speed
*use less fuel than before.

In both cases used HSN to keep temp around 210-220. (turned in about 1/2 - 3/4) Still surprised at how far out the needles are. Well I ran 5 tanks yesterday in a not so rich state, got longer run times, and it did not flame out! Still loads up but not nearly as fast and more power with out all the feathering! Starting to run more predictably.

I had a little over 1.5 gallons through it, I think what happened here is that it was still dropping it's nuts. (I think mine has 3 of them and one had not dropped yet) The continued running is helping it drop them more. I will keep running it and let you know if it starts to flame out again. Maybe the something to do with the densities of the alloys and making it break-in abnormally.

Good luck!

Basher, take out the 1.1 clutch springs, put 1.0 springs in it, should be able to clear jumps easier.

Thanks for the tips, I am just so damn fed up with it. I have a new B2 werks coming and will order a fusion x5 with the full monty treatment in the next few days. Still have a brand new Orion 2012 factory team that is about to drop its nutz and a Nvision engine that runs great, not to mention a stock losi 350. Not sure if I want to go through the hassle of mounting a flywheel again and messing with it, but I will definitely keep it in mind. My problem is that there is NO pinch so I know it dropped its nuts and it never was consistent even on the starter box through break-in.