^^Yayuh! my LHS is on that list of suppliers thanks to me! :nod:

:cool:

cant wait to get my engine should be able to get it for christmas!!

when you get your new Go engine remember to use the extra shim in the box for break in, and if you doent have a preferred break in method fallow this step for step...

1. The first step is to wrap the engines cooling head up in aluminum foil. this will help it achieve optimal tempature fast and help insure the engine is not running too cool. It will also force you to run a richer needle setting to keep the engine in the temperature range. We also reccomend using a heat gun of hair dryer to get the engines temperature up above 160 degrees before trying to turn over the engine. Allow the engine to cool and remember to place the engine at bottom dead center
2. For the first 2 tanks of fuel you should only let the engine idle (do not rev at all.) make sure the engine is around 210-240 degrees monitor it closely and use the needle valve to control temperature.
3. For the third tank of fuel you should repeat the steps and pulse the throttle to 25%, remember do not hold it open just slow open then close no more than 25%. If you have a computer radio you can use the servo endpoints to accomplish this and it will make it much easier for you.
4. For the fourth tank of fuel repeat step three but this time you can open the engine up to 50%. You should no longer need the alumn. foil wrapped around the cooling head and remember to keep a close watch on temperature, at 50% throttle it will be very easy to over heat the engine. Remember to control the temperature with your needle valves.
5. Tank five is a repeat of step four but this time open the throttle up 75%. Remember that you want to pulse the throttle and should never have the throttle open for longer than 1 second.
6. Tank six repeat step five but this time open the throttle up 100%. Remember that you want to pulse the throttle and should never have the throttle open for longer than 1 second. At this stage it is extremely important to watch temperatures as the engine can over heat very quickly and unexpectedly. In order to maintain temperature at this stage the engine should be running extremely rich.
7. Now your ready to take the car out and tune for performance your engine should be ready to go. Don't overdue it too much for the next 2 tanks but you should be able to drive around the track at a good speed but not race speed.

russell pm

I don't think TKO carried Go anymore...The engines have been gone off the site for months and all they list under the Go header is a wrist pin....

Thankz Scott if i do i'll hit you up at the track :tire::tire::tire::tire:

No its cool Jason im just not sure if i should contact Russell first or just send it to one of the places to buy a motor thankz for the info dude

i beleave you are correct...i think thats an old list...

thanks jason when i get it i am getting it modded by ptm and i might have him break it in to.

you should also pick up a carb restrictor kit, so that the modder can run it on the dyno and let you know what carb insert makes the most power and what one gets the best run times...

That's assuming PTM has a dyno. Maybe he can confirm.

NO dyno's here, I don't have $6,400 to spend at this point, And why would you throw a brand new motor on the Dyno?

I'm trying to diagnose my mysterious un-tunable low end bog/supposed air leak tonight and I just took the high speed out but I can't tell whether there's an o-ring missing or not (this is the first time I have ever removed the high speed needle so I didn't lose it at any point in time) I wanted to check the needle because it is extremely easy to turn, compared to my other engines there is NO resistance on it when I turn it. I have attached a pic...if it doesn't explain my thoughts well enough then let me know and I can try to explain it better.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...peedneedle.jpg

after looking at the HSN on amain I guess the o-ring is in the right spot. If it's spinning freely like that it means that there's something wrong with the o-ring right?

to test carb restrictors to see what one does what, run time, most power, ect...