Got the same motor & mines the same. Shown how to free it from TDC yesterday as I ran it in.

Clears the triple in this small video taken @ NORC Raceway in the UK

Didn't put the HN 2047 kit pipe on but used the pipe I have, the RB 2045 + 192p header that was in the car. Will try the kit one on Wed night to feel the difference

Hi Adrian - nice work on that drivers stand at the weekend :nod:

joeling, here is part of a post from a few pages ago when RETRO RC helped me with a similar problem.
" I had fallen into the common mistake made by people new to these engines of having the idle gap set too wide, and running with a way too rich bottom end (1.5 turns !!) and a lean top end (1.25 turns !!). Believe it or not the engine ran pretty good, but got hotter as I progressed through the tank of fuel. Part of the problem was trying to tune the engine at home without enough space to run at high revs and set the top end properly first. So my tuning will be done at the track on race days from now on I thought both my 5 Ports went well before, but now they are running to their true potential they are really awesome Thanks Adrian.
So to anyone else new out there. If your engine has an erratic idle, comes in idling fast and then suddenly drops revs, runs ok but gets to hot at the end of a tank - check your idle gap and LSN settings. Set the idle gap to around .7 mm (barely open). Tune the top end for good power with plenty of smoke. Then set LSN for a smooth idle with no sudden drop in revs and a good smooth take off after sitting for 10 secs or so. Finally adjust idle if necessary."

Cheers :cool:

Hi guys,

Thank u all for the valuable advice. I have decided to learn more about nitro tuning so that I don't have to pester my lhs for every single simple thing.

Regards,
Joe Ling

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/bash7.jpg

hey colin its will g from az im running .25 and im very very happy with the way it works and runs. i ran it last couple races we had at the nitro pit and even the finals and has tons of power all thru the rpms im running dyn 053 pipe seams to be ok with this motor to me but i think it depends upon track you run at. i have not ran the .28 yet but i dont think you need much more power than the .25 has. thnx will g

joeling

hey man i had the same problem 2 weeks ago at my race finals in az. i had my motor too rich and had someone help tune it in and i believe was about 1 to 1 1/4 turns out of wack on top and bottom but the motor still ran but blubbered a bit. any time you need help jump on this thread we have no problem helping out fellow racers thnx will g

I got one for ya.. where can I get a new piston and sleeve??? and also
do one of the other piston and sleeves fit in the 5 port??
any help is much appreciated.
thanks
MO

amainhobbies.com and carolinasrc.com usually has them in stock for the 5 port if not get with russell at racfatorindustries.com and see what he can help you with. thnx will g

Hi will g,

Much appreciated :nod:

Regards,
Joe Ling

im probably late on this, but look at what i found on A-Main

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23700

Where is the best place to pick up the 3 port race?

i have that on my 3port race its nice!

thanks a bunch bro
MO

mo I had a good time racing with you at the shoot out i go from wining sat to 6th in the A on sunday but still lots of FUN!

GO engine breakin

there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.

Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.

Installing the engine.

After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.

Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.

Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb

Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom.

If i can help with anything that wasn't asked let me know or just give me a ring.

what fuel and plugs are you running Joe, and be sure the head bolts are tight and carb pinch bolt and back plate, my test 3 port did the same thing, i went through everything and used a P3 during breakin and sealed the pinch bolt and back plate, the head bolts where a bit losse and i think this is what caused it, are you using the extra shim, i put mine in after that, let me know.