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BAM
Just put a .28 in my XT8. I am on tank 5. Almost ready for a good race tune. |
what .28 is it? sport or race
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Originally Posted by SteveJa
(Post 4391200)
on a 7 port turbo hear, when you do the solder test for head clearance what should it be ?
I am getting about .92mm and I think that is a little much.... I thougt my novarossi's where about .65mm Thanks Rex |
Originally Posted by GenReaper
(Post 4391929)
Had the same problem with mine mate.
To fix this pull the retaining screw out, then the two halfs of the locking bolt that clamps the carbi in the crankcase then grab an angle grinder and shave a small amount off the midle of both of the pinch bolts, dont bother trying to do it with a file as it is hardened steel and you will be there for a year, or use a pedestal bench grinder just be carefull, and i promise you this will fix your problem, just dont forget to seal the pinch bolts after and lock tight the retaining bolt when you line the carbi back up. |
I hope it does!!!:nod:
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I bought a 3 Port Race spec. What nitro and oil percentages should I use for break-in, or should I just use the same fuel I'll be racing with?
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alright, I managed to get 2 mins more of runtime just by changing the JP-4 to a Hyper EFRA 059, was getting 6 to 6:30 and now I got 8:30, didn't even touch the tune, I guess Go engines don't like JP-4's, the engine actually felt better, very controllable. It's a 5 Port Turbo by the way.
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I give up on my 5-port GO. So I'm selling it and the pipe for $175.00 if any one is interested.
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im having a issue with my 5 port go it seems to have a lean bog issue but i richen it up and it doesn't want to stay running its very weird it screams up top but bottom end is weird
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cheesecake, have you checked your clutch setup? maybe the shoes/springs are getting worn?
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cheesecake - I have had the same issue....
#1. Take everything apart and check the clutch. Make sure you have those washers between the clutch shoe and flywheel if you are running an aluminum clutch. #2. Just in case replace the clutch springs and remove any burrs from the shoes. #3. My engine was too lean on the top and too fat on the bottom so fatten up the top until it starts to slow down on the top and then go an hour back lean. now lean the bottom end, when it is cleaned out it should bog down to idle in about 5 seconds, but tune for performance. then adjust idle. My engine still had a little bog out of turns. |
Originally Posted by 22Racer
(Post 4392473)
I have noticed the Go's tend to have more head clearance.
Rex Thanks |
If you go to far it will blow plugs and it is possible to hear it predetonate, it will ping. I don't like to use solder to check clearance, I use a caliper and measure down to the piston and subtract the measurement from the button.
David, sorry to see your not running the Go anymore. Are you going to Extreme in Ia. for round 2? That place is awesome! Rex |
cheesecake, tune the low end needle at a quarter of a tank so it dont lean bog when nearly empty.
Works for me. |
Originally Posted by zJatoRad
(Post 4393337)
alright, I managed to get 2 mins more of runtime just by changing the JP-4 to a Hyper EFRA 059, was getting 6 to 6:30 and now I got 8:30, didn't even touch the tune, I guess Go engines don't like JP-4's, the engine actually felt better, very controllable. It's a 5 Port Turbo by the way.
The engine runs nice with solid mid range but not much down low performance which I need to clear some largish jumps. Plus a little more top end would be nice. I don't know, it just seems a little flat at the moment. Maybe I'm being to critical perhaps. Can you expand a little on your experiences with this combo and how the performance has increased? I'm not overly concerned with run time at the moment, just general engine performance comparisons between pipes. Cheers Falcon |
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