start with the HSN flush, and the LSN 1.5 in from flush, and tune in from there with the LSN, HS doesn't move much from there, lsn like to get turned in more than HS.

Hey all,

Well I went out to the track today and after adjusting the tune a little things improved with the performance of my 5 port on the JP-4 pipe.

I agree with you mugenb46 as it appears with traction the sting goes away from the engine slightly, however with just a little lead into a jump or a slightly loose surface it's on pipe and most impressive. Very strong mid range.

I think I'll reserve judgment until the engine has a full gallon through it and the tune gets serious. Now, only if I could keep my laps consistent :lol:

Cheers

Falcon

Wow, if I ran my HSN that rich, it won't run. I have my HSN in about 1 3/4 turns now and still runs really rich until about the 1/4 tank mark and when it's hot. Takes ages to get to temps.

My LSN is flush though. Perhaps that's why I'm not getting good punch from standstill? It sort of takes off gently and then after a good 10 or so feet it starts to haul and then clears out a little higher up the rev range and then really screams.

Thing is there doesn't seem to be much smoke at idle and pulling away initially, then the smoke pours out right up the rev range. Does that seem right?

My temps are averaging around 230 to 240F after a good few WOT runs, but as soon as I tape off and tootle around, the temps drop off dramatically to around 200 to 210F and quite quickly too.

Any pointers on where to go from here?

i can picture just how your engine is running and reacting with themps, back out the HSN and lean the bottom, the idle will get better as well if your seing any problems with that or loading up, after a few high speed passes and you stab it, it should just sputter for a split second, after a full hard run the sputter will be gone and it should react off the bottom like a rapped ape, and temps should be around 220 to 250 and running very well.

Thanks for the info. I will give it a try hopefully this weekend if the weather gives us a break. It starts first time no probs and idles for ages without loading up too much.

I like the raped ape thing, would be great. I'm up against another Hyper ST with an LRP Z.28 so hoping I will be able to get him on the run times as that thing is just nuts.

So the lack of a lot of smoke at idle isn't really an issue then?

Received the Go 3 Port R-Spec today, I didn't know they were coming with the black coating in the crankcase, also the engravings in the cooling head are different, looks mean :sneaky:

Go have new styl:) www.go-engine.com

I chains the turbo head on my new 3 pt, it didn't not wont to go whit the turbo head, i try os p3, rb 6 and 7 but it still not wont to go. Then i chains to standar plugg head and a nr 5 go plugg, than the engine go like a clock!

Someone have the saime trouble?

Sorry my bad English!

wow wasn't expecting that, a pro race .12 3 port hmm, now if we only had a onroad track:sneaky:

:eek: Rear Exhaust, SG crankshaft, Slide carb?

oh ya:sneaky:, no pics of the guts though. site is still getting built. looks like the .21 carbs are sealed out of the box, It's carb rhino lining LOL

OK, here is a newbie motor question... I used some crappy fuel and was running a bit rich. My piston and standard head now have a black carbon, burnt oil like deposit on them. Should I bother to clean the top of the piston off with something or leave it like it is? I just installed a new turbo head tonight, which is when I noticed the black build up. I just switched to Byrons Gen 2 tonight as well, which seems to run amazing. I read somewhere that the motor should run clean with this fuel if it is adjusted right. Any help?

By the way, the GoTech 7p with the turbo and 053 pipe is really screaming now.

go carb help
 

hey guys i had seen somewhere in here that a few people had a problem with the lower oring tearing up on the gotechs....i had a similar problem ...when i initially checked the the carb it seemed like it rocked from side to side just a touch ....so thats what prompted me to remove the carb and check things out ...the oring was torn so i got new ones and replaced them on both of my go's 5 and 7 ports ....my problem is this ...on the 7 port the carb still rocks back and fourth just a touch ...it has been pressed down as far as it can go and tightened snug ....has any one had this issue ? or can put me on the post number where it was explained ...any and all help appreciated .....thanks brian :confused:

p.s. the 5 port seems good and snug

I don't know much about the 3 ports, but I don't think they will run with the Turbo heads. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. Not sure if the race spec 3 port is turbo or not, but doubt the sport will run with a turbo head on it.

Your are correct on the black carbon deposit being on the rich side. If you are not careful, you could do more harm than good cleaning it off. I think you'll be fine just adding the turbo button and changing to a qaulity fuel like Byron's.

Loosen your pinch bolt and pull the carb out, my guess is it's the metal bushing which covers the bottom of the carb that is loose. I just sent mine in for the same except my movement started out a 1/4 inch and got much worse.