It should turn over very easy at 220-240 deg.. I'm breaking in a 5p now and everything is going nice and smooth.

After you heated it up, did you prime the engine as you were trying to start it? Fuel running through it makes it a little easier to turn over too.

Power trip anybody?:eek:

I had the same problem you are having. I wrapped the engine head in foil and I put a lot of after-run oil in the glow plug hole and carb. The after-run oil along with heating the engine with a heat gun to about 260-280 degrees F, I was was finally able to get the engine to turn over on my OFNA chrome top starter box (which I connected to my car's battery to give it a little more power). Good Luck.

I use a Mugen starter box with 2 3000mah batts.

i have a ofna truggy start and 2 venom 4600 batts

I'm not sure why you guys are having that much trouble....Brian will chime in soon, maybe he can help out.

My 5 port blew up today I dont know what the deal is it just keeps blowing the elements out of my plugs into the engine its not running out or too cold it will be running fine and just die and we take the plug out element is gone.

Is the element melted or distorted....or does it look like it just caved in?

I hook up my starter box to 2 x 12 V Yuasa bats in series ... 24 V on the box will kick anyhting over .. and i think i got a stock 550 in there ..

Try this tho ... Get your dremmell and a cutting disc , then cut small grooves along the edge of your fly wheel .. that will give it heaps of grip on your starter box .. that should turn it over .. I do that to my run in fly wheel .. it starts first time every time once pre heated .. hope this helps :)

www.massivemods.com

where can i get the sheet of Go stickers

Shane it was completely gone and the 2nd one was halfway gone.

I just got me one of these too, with a Hong Nor 2047 pipe. It was also really, really tight. I had to heat it up to about 230F and it would still get stuck. Bear in mind some people juts heat the head up, which doesn't help as much as heating the block as I do.

I found that when mine stuck, I jad to get out my trusty tuning screwdriver and release it from TDC by turning the flywheel. I then placed the flywheel just after TDC where it was loose and then whacked it on the starter box, also, allow your starter box to spin up before slamming your flywheel onto it.

Even after 10 tanks, my engine still gets stuck at TDC sometimes. I have never had such a tight engine before.

I have found that the bottom end is a little soft on this engine, even with the 2047. I'm hoping it will get better once it's got more fuel through it and I can start leaning it to get a good tune.

The bottom end is probably missing from your 5 port as it is still real tight. Mine had a similar feel when new. Make sure you are using the break in shim - this will help a LOT !!
The 5 and 7 Port motors are legendary in their pinch when new. They do not entirely free up until you have put about 2 - 2.5 gallons through them. Then look out :eek: The 5 Port has heaps of bottom end for most applications. If running in a buggy you will most likely need to tame it down a bit with clutch, pipe or restrictor, depending what sort of track you run. The 5 port suits a tighter track with jumps just out of corners etc.
I run buggy at a track like this and use the 086 pipe, 7mm restrictor and 1mm springs with carbon shoes on my 5 Port Turbo and it is sweet :nod:

Hi All,

Sorry for hijacking this thread.

I need some help turning my Go 3 port R. I followed the Ron Paris engine turning guide 1st HSN, 2nd LSN ,3rd Idle,4th Readjust HSN For some reason my engine does not seem to get hot to extract the power I want. I don’t usually use a temp gun to turn.

I got a friend to temp my engine and it temped @84 Degrees, I learned HSN by 1/4 turn and it started to lean bog. I tried a few more times to readjust and took both needles to flush settings and tried to turn from there but to no avail. I couldn't turn HSN any further without the engine lean bogging.:confused:

What I’m after is a smooth power band from bottom end to top end... + a bit more on top

I use the following running gear.

Go 3 Port R
2027 Pipe and header combo
Firioni Sliding clutch, with 3 prings
25%Nitro, 12% oil, 10% Syn, 2% Castor oil

Thanks for all you help:nod:

what brand of Temp gun are you using ?? did you ever calibrate the gun ? almost all hobby grade temp guns are way out out of calibration and cannot be relied on for an accurate reading... Duratrax guns are the absolute worst offenders...some guns being as much as 90 degress off.......... Moral of the story is your motor is likely running right, but your gun is misreading the actual temperature