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-   Offroad Nitro Engine Forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum-157/)
-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

joeling 04-14-2008 11:27 PM

Hi Brian,


Originally Posted by mugenb46 (Post 4355658)
what fuel and plugs are you running Joe, and be sure the head bolts are tight and carb pinch bolt and back plate, my test 3 port did the same thing, i went through everything and used a P3 during breakin and sealed the pinch bolt and back plate, the head bolts where a bit losse and i think this is what caused it, are you using the extra shim, i put mine in after that, let me know.

I'm using P3. I'll have to check to make sure the bolts are tight but that will be a few days as I'm out station at the moment. I'm using the extra shim.Thanks for the heads up.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Euro Stealth 04-15-2008 08:24 AM

I predict a Pro Twister Mods Go .25 6port in my future, just need to sell my OS V to my buddy now..

Brian it was a pleasure talking to you, thank you for taking the time out to discuss some stuff with me.

-Brandon

razor_clawzz 04-15-2008 09:09 AM


Originally Posted by joeling (Post 4352924)
Hi guys,

I am a newbie to nitro & I have been running a GO 5 port for the last couple of months. Recently, I installed a turbo head button & was pretty happy with the increased power. However, I have run into a little tuning problem. After running for a while, the engine sputters & there's even a loud 'pop' from the exhaust. What could be the cause of this? I measured the head temperature & it was less than 100 deg C. On top of that, I am getting 'sticky throttle' in that the engine is slow to rev down. I know that without further details, it's not easy to figure out what is (are) the problem(s) based on this simple description. Some educated guess would be appreciated. I have just changed a new fuel tank & new tubing because I was getting the 'sticky throttle' earlier so I hope that potential area of concern is eliminated.

Regards,
Joe Ling

What causes this? I experienced this during 80%(*a rough estimate) break-in completion

derricklong38 04-15-2008 09:32 AM

during break in, i guess it could be unburnt fuel burning in the exhaust. the only time i have had a pop and sputtering at the same time during normal running, i had my pressure lines and fuel lines backwards

tonyy 04-15-2008 09:48 AM

will I got 4 tanks on my 3poet race, 4 is not alot but looks like its going to be a good motor this weekend I will be racing it!

kaye7877 04-15-2008 12:14 PM

I've experienced the same pop because of a glow plug going bad from metal contamination while breaking in an engine before. It seems the micro particles of metal the engine shed during breaking had compromised the glowplug.

After changing the glowplug, the occasional pop was gone.

friend2friend 04-15-2008 04:24 PM

hi guys! what pipe and plugs do you recomend for the 28?

clebo3 04-15-2008 04:56 PM

I just got my 5 port turbo. My question is I went to put the extra shim in, and found that there is already three shims installed. What thickness shims should be for break-in and what shims should be in afterward. Thanks for any information.

mugenb46 04-15-2008 06:52 PM


Originally Posted by clebo3 (Post 4358480)
I just got my 5 port turbo. My question is I went to put the extra shim in, and found that there is already three shims installed. What thickness shims should be for break-in and what shims should be in afterward. Thanks for any information.

Use the shim that is in the box for breakin, and remove the same shim after breakin, and after about a gallon you can run the squish anywhere from 22 to 25 thous.

Run a short style hot plug in the .28 A3 is good with a MSR 1005 or JP4 and 086 pipe

derricklong38 04-15-2008 07:57 PM

how would i check my clearence? squish????

MassiveMods 04-15-2008 08:05 PM


Originally Posted by derricklong38 (Post 4359123)
how would i check my clearence? squish????


you can do the old soldier in the plug hole bizzo , but i prefer to check the piston distance to liner top at TDC , then minus the thickness of the head button insert , then you have the residual distance between head button and piton without shims in .. what you would then do is add this figure to the thickness of the indended shims .. then you have a total head clearance. Best to do this with a depth gauge .. digital if poss ...

EG top of piston to liner top is 3.5 mm in the 7 port , standard head button thickness is 3 mm turbo is 3.1 mm the difference between the 2 is .2 or .1 mm that is the head clearence without any shims in ... ok you then add your shims lets say you ad a total of .4 shimming that will give you a total of .6 std head button or .5 with turbo ... hope this helps ... This is called trapped compression ratio , you would be talking between 6.8 :1 to 8 :1 typically with this set up ...

Now if you were to go into geometric compression ratios between turbo and standard then thats another ball game all together ... The difference between standard and turbo geometric compression typically in this situation is Turbo 12.5 :1 , Standard
13.7 :1 hope this helps

www.massivemods.com :)

slaytanic 04-16-2008 04:46 AM

Wow! That clears it all up OL! Leave it to the pro's.

cheesecake 04-16-2008 06:56 AM

i ordered a go tech 5 port to replace my rb that i just sold. i ordered it with a turbo button also what plugs are people running and also i have a msr1005 will that pipe work good with it?

chad220 04-16-2008 07:37 AM

after 4 tanks of break in on my 5pt im starting to get that sticky throttle other guys have been talking about, but only after about half a tank. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong? also i was wondering what carb inserts work with the GO engines?

will g 04-16-2008 08:26 AM

chad220

that normally comes from a servo linkage off and causing it to bind check that first thnx will g


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