First race of the year and my GX-5's maiden voyage. Still breaking in the motor running fat as hell and still brought home 1st place!!! The new 5-port is a beast:nod:

thats good news mate :) can only get better from here as she wears in more

Rex your right that is the motor really think they have parts for that older model motor.Is a long low speed needle good or bad and what should i lookout for. Thanks

Most of the parts will still fit that motor. The long low speed needle just tunes different, If you have trouble tuning it I can tell you how to shorten it.

Rex

do to crappy weather here in mn i have to wait till the indoor race on the 5th and 6th to try out my GX-5R. Cant wait

Back from our 3 day North Island Champs (probably equivalent to a State champs in the US).
Unfortunately the first two days got rained out, so it was a reduced number of heats and all the finals on Sunday.
GO motors took 1st (3 Port) and 2nd (5 Port) on the podium in the Buggy A Final :) Due to the weather we had, the 3 Port was literaly a brand new motor (3 tanks of run in) when it hit the track for the first heat. It was still running pretty rich in the semi and main, but due to some sweet driving by the owner (not me !!!) it came home in first place by 23 sec (half a lap). Not bad for a motor that still had shrink wrap on it a couple of days proir !!!!

Re the black carbon deposits mentioned in the previous posts. Some fuels use oils that will leave these deposits even if the motor is running perfectly.
Fuels with an ester based synthetic oil / de-gummed castor mix, will leave a nice golden honey couloured coating as opposed to the thick carbon build up.
This golden colour in no way means your motor is running lean, just as the black carbon deposits don't mean your motor is running rich if you are using a fuel with inferior or old technology oils.

Here is a link to a good article on oils in fuels. Quite intersteing

http://www.rcmodelreviews.com/goodoil2.shtml

We recommend all our customers use an ester based synthetic oil with at least 2% castor for the best performance and protection in their engines. We have been running such fuels in the GO engines for over two years now, with excellent results. Great performance, minimum engine wear and the internals still look like new after several gallons.

Ya Grizz I didn't even think about the oil changes these past couple years. Thats a Great point! Thanks for the info:nod:

Yes, that's the .25 sport 3-port. Very solid price point motors! If people are looking for a potent low-cost mill for club racing, these are quite solid.

I ordered a few of the .21 sport 3-port mills a few months ago for testing fuel, and we were quite suprised how much power they generated. I've got a few more on the way now, but I'll probably be ordering a lot more this spring. Possibly a US promotion on these as well.

Hey Runne, any word as to when the GO-Engines USA
web site is going to be updated? It's been awhile and
the competition is getting stronger. Alot of guys are
going to the Alpha and JL engines. There has also been
word that the Percirotate(http://www.pr-rc.com/index.asp),
GO based, engines may be hitting the east coast for distribution
in the USA soon. The Tiawanese nitro engine tsunami is hitting
the US full force this year.

They may be just re-badged GO engines, but
check out the weighted cranks.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...weeeeeeet.html

Yes I know... I'm WAAY behind on the site. I've got the framework up, and most of the content entered or ready for publication. The problem is that I'm having some trouble with the way the menus pull up pages and i havent been on my dev team's ass about it. I think it's time I start putting the screws to the wood... ;)

This is true, the Alpha and JS are showing up more and more but at this point Go still offers the best bang for the buck with the extra conrod and full restrictor set. This may need to be emphasized on the website Trey. Just a thought.

Wow those look like rebadged go engines, they have the TiNi carb and all.

Changing pipes can change engine temp. id say the 053 had a different top end pulse from the baffle .. this may have slowed gas flow out the pipe and kept heat in the engine. Yes you can use the engine tuning guide for the RTR range .. its designed to get you in the ball park or at least have somewhere to refrence.

what are you guys useing for a throttle return spring on the GX5