Can anyone tell me what the Go Tech 0801 pipe is a clone of or very similar too?

Is there a good/easy way to reinforce the stinger/nipple on these pipes?

Lastly does anyone know where to get the 2072 in the states?

Thanks -

The 2072 should be available in a couple weeks in the states.

Rex

i'm your engine man lol
 

i can get you one when and where does it go
im in contact with racefactors weekly so what do you need call me 972-302-0034 WES:tire::tire::tire::tire::tire::tire::tire::tire ::tire::tire::tire:

for sure your one lucky man, i didnt even get one

From what I have heard the new motors have reduced initial pinch and are quite a bit easier to break in, a follow on from the 5.5 series.
The stock GO motors are super competitive, with plenty of power.
I think the main reason for modding is not really the extra power you get, but the way that power is delivered. Most modded motors are a lot smoother in power delivery than some of the stock motors. The other benefit you get is increased economy over the stock motors (if set up right of course). Having said that the stock GO's give great economy straight out of the box with a 6.5 restrictor. I would say a stock GX 5R would be a sweet motor Malik :nod:

YE-HAAAA - Go the Giz man :D I know what you will be doing this weekend :nod: Keep us informed - we're all ears :cool:

MATE I HOPE TAT SERVO WILL HOLD FOR YOU :eek: PLASTIC IN A NITRO BUGGY , I WOULD PUT IT IN MY THROTTLE AND RUN ALOT LESS BRAKES IMO:) HOPE YOU OTHER PARTS TURN UP

Luckily all I'm doing this weekend is running in the MG66..finishing the run in of the 7 port and our club is doing a little demo day on sunday at a local village modelling fair..basically they pay us €350 plus 25-30 free lunches to turn up and run our buggies round a little grass track all day..sounds like run in time to me....still the hitec gearset might arrive today or tomorrow..

Nice work if you can get it :)

mate thats awsome :):) getting paid to run in your engine :nod:

Yeh nice touch isn't it and the forecast says sunny and 28ºC so cool...and the free lunch is a sit down 4 course thing too..

OK MG66 first impressions..god it's pretty! OK drool moment over..Tech stuff..metal pinch is much less than the older gen motors.I can turn it over ,just anyway,by hand..came shrink wrapped with the 2x0.1 copper shims and the 1x0.3 aluminium headshims already fitted..there is also another 0.2 copper shim in the box..restrictors - don't know about the GX motors but the MG66 came with the same 6.5,7.0,7.5,8.0 as the older GO restrictor set..no sign of the much mentioned 6.0mm insert..I wasn't after it anyway but thought it worth mentioning..

Ok preheat and fire it up..fires first go without even straining my new high torque truggy starter box..idle is immediately smooth with no stutter ..after a quick glance at the factory settings of the needles I left them as they came..flush on the hsn and it looks like maybe 3/4 turn in on the lsn..Mark at massive says start it ..give it a few seconds on the box to settle then drive it immediately no idle tanks at all..I might add I always do my run ins this way..never leave it to idle on the starter box..

Start off on the tarmac behind my house with nice smooth figure eights..I'm running 3 aluminium shoes with 1.0mm springs and I'm also running a 14/46 clutch bell combo..the standard for kyosho are normally 13/46 or 14/48..The 7 port runs 2x alloy with 1.1 and 1xcarbon with 1.0 and 13/46..after much testing I like this and it doesn't snatch so much..I found the 3x alloy all 1.1's wastes fuel and runtime cause I have to rev it too hard to get it going but it bogs with all 1.0 springs..

well the MG66 pulls the lighter springs/higher gearing with ease..not the tiniest hint of hesitation..Oh and grizz1 I think it growls better with the 2072..hasn't completely removed the flat sound but it's nicer..more animal..hehe..

Only first tank done for now so these are really only very first impressions but the power comes in smoooooooooth..doesn't seem to build up a bit then rip like the 7 port...can't wait to see how this flat line power build up carries on through the range once I start to rev it harder..

Mark says it is designed to be easy to drive but an animal when you need it to be..I think, Mark you have designed THE engine to beat next year...

I am getting the go-tech 5 port today for my buggy. I was wondering if anyone had any tips on breaking in the engine? Should I go straight to the groud or idle 2 tanks but keep the temps up in the 200s. What is a good break in temp for this engine?

Idle 2 tanks with foil wraped around the head. Keep the heat up to 210 degrees. Let it cool down and run 2 more at wide open throttle, but keep it rich so it does not over rev. Again, keep the temp around 210. After you run the 4 tanks, tune it to race settings. Keep in mind you will still have a lot of pinch so your temps may get a little high. After you run 2 or 3 tanks through at WOT, I would recomend a good cleaning...

Go to the massive mods web site they have the instructions on how to break your engine in. Do not idle 2 tanks,cool,then 2 tanks wide open. You will blow that engine to hell.Run in procedure

Correct run in procedure is critical to ensuring a strong long lasting engine. While there are many methods available the following is one that I recommend due to personal experience. We recommend using MRI oil during run in to ensure maximum engine protection.

The method is simple and effective and designed to be user friendly .

1 : Flush engine with degreaser thoroughly to clear manufacture debris , re oil before assembly.

2 : Pre heat engine with hair dryer to relieve piston tension and wrap with alfoil to keep the heat in. Get to between 80 to 100 Deg C

3 : Start engine and idle for 30 seconds, tune LSN for clean mixture ie not too rich and not too lean, then bring up to 1/4 throttle for half a tank , then let idle for 30 seconds and then raise throttle to 1/4 throttle again for rest of tank , pulse throttle up to half way on occasion.

4 : Tank 2, put car on ground and drive on hi traction surface ie grass or tarmac . This will put load onto the engine and keep it hot. What you want to avoid is having the engine cold during run in or any time of operation. Piston and sleeve tolerance is at optimum between 100 and 140 deg c depending on the engine. Repeat this and increase RPM with every subsequent tank.

You must get the engine used to its operating standard. If you differentiate run-in temps too much from your standard running temps then you will have an engine that is difficult to run.

This is basically it ! How long an engine takes to run in depends on manufacturers tolerances between piston and sleeve. If the engine is particularly tight it will take longer to wear into its optimum piston and sleeve fit , most RTR engines are run in after a few tanks because typically they have a much looser piston and sleeve fit. This is done on purpose to make it easy to run in.

How will you know when its run in ?

You will notice the engine pick up in performance and its temp range may differ but don’t pay too much attention to temp’s . What I recommend is once an engine is run in and running well consistently , then if you insist on getting a temp , do it then as a reference point. DO NOT TUNE TO A TEMP . Every engine has a different temp it likes to run at and there are so many reasons and variables that determine this.

If you have any further questions on engine run in please do not hesitate to email us on [email protected]

Ace - you got PM on GO break in procedures :cool: