well i ran the go today i noticed it takes a while for the go to warm up and start making power..... but other then that it was flawless nonstop i was temping around 210 for round one leaned it a couple hours and ran it for round 2 and it was amazing came in temped at 230 the track was moust fr round one so the power really helped the buggy move for round 2 it was alot of throttle control as the track started to blow out so now im happy with the go 5 port its coming out of the buggy getting cleaned up and waiting to get installed in my rc8t when it gets here :D

I have always said to Russell that i thought the tunning sensitivity was due to the new style LSN, that much more needle in the spray bar IMO causes very sensitive tune, but i have ran them so long, i have no issues with it, Cheese, glad to hear it worked out.

You say your motor is still really tight ? This would explain some of the reason it is not performing to it's full potential. These Go motors are extremly tight when new and can take up to 1.5 - 2.0 gallons to really fully free up and start performing to their max.

With fuel spitting out the exhaust and the lean top end you describe I would suggest that you have your LSN way too rich and your HSN way to lean. Try this: Set HSN at flush with housing. LSN 1.5 turns in from flush with housing.
Warm engine by running for a couple of minutes. HSN should be pretty close at flush, but fine tune for good top end power and speed (remembering you still have a lot of pinch). Once HSN is set, adjust your LSN leaner 1/8 turn at a time until you can come in after a short run and maintain a steady idle without the motor loading up and the idle dropping. This might take 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on the LSN to acheive. Sounds a lot but this is how the Go's like to run - fairly rich top end and fairly lean bottom end. Set like this you should have a nice punchy bottom end and good power / smoke at the top. After another gallon or so you can maybe lean it a little further at the top when the pinch has gone. When these motors still have pinch you won't get an increase in top end performance by leaning them out, but once they are broken in fully - look out :nod:

grizz1,

Thanks for the input:nod:, I forgot to mention that I have over 12 litres of fuel, on my 13th now. I have tried everything took both needles to flush and turned from there. In my post I mentioned that I did a pinch test which indicated that my LSN is fairly lean already.

I have tried doing what you have mentioned earlier HSN flush and lean LSN, by doing this I was loosing considerable top end I was getting smoked by everything, that's why I mentioned I could literally make a cup of tea on the drivers stand, while waiting for the buggy to pass through the straight.

I never had a problem before tuning engines, as always followed Ron's method. Now I have a headache and half. How do I get this thing super hot, so I can loose some pinch?

even with 12 litres it sounds like your still getting metal pinch to the point where its effecting the top end performance just sounds like it's still not free enough to rev out. Or you could be suffering from the same problem as Cheesecake was a hard to tune LSN. check out the last page and you'll see what I mean

Also you said in your earlier post that the engine cuts out after 3-4 seconds when you do the pinch test. just a few questions

how much did the revs pick up first and how close to the carb did you pinch it

Adrian:tire:

When I was using the Go carb every turn that I would exit would leave a puff of smoke like a mushroom cloud. :o

Now I have the OS VG carb it is an improvement, but not as much as I would have hoped for.

Pinch was done 1 inch from carb, picked up fairly quick then cut out not quite instant but almost.

How do I get rid of the metal pinch? Run 30% nitro with 8% oil straight synthetic?

12 litres is like four gallons your metal pinch should be gone.
Did you perhaps screw in the LSN with the carb closed?

best bang for the buck
 

i have several motors that i use in my truggy ( rb concepts c6 bb and a picco evo2 21 ) and they are both great performing motors but in my opinion the go tech engines are the best bang for the buck right now.

i bought a go tech 21 5 port motor to try in my truggy and im very impressed with the power of this motor. unlike some motors that seem to have dead spots in the powerband when accelerating this go tech 5 port has so much snap throughout the whole powerband .

it idles great during races and gets really good fuel mileage. ive been using the go tech polished pipe with it and when racing it can hold its own against the higher dollar italian and french motors.

the low cost of replacement parts for the go tech makes it the best choice for guys like me who race on a budget. great motors at a very reasonable price.

close 12 ltrs = 3 gallons

Depending on how you've been running the engine you can still have pinch at 12 ltrs I know because my 1st 7 port still had pinch at around 10 ltrs.

Jesusaves what i meant was did the revs increase quite a bit or only slightly before cutting out they should only increase very slightly

I would probably try leaning the LSN by about 2-3 hours and richen the HSN by the same and see how you go also check to see what your Idle gap is like should be around 1mm no more

Adrian:tire:

If you want to get rid of the pinch , run about half a litre of cool power all synthetic . That will take off some of the pinch

Thanks Adrian, My ideal is pretty low the engine will just ideal once up to temp, but no more 20sec then cuts out. As for the LSN is fairly lean already it revs up quite bit then cuts out after 3-4secs.

I'm going to try what Mark (Mr Massive Mods) suggested, this should do the trick.

Besides all the dramas I really like the Go engine, it’s the pinch that’s holding back the performance on the top end. Now that I know what my problem is/was.

Hey,
How do GO compaire to RB. Thiink of changing as RB is all $$$$$$.
Woudnt mind some feedback on the engines!
Cheers,
Jonathan Lane

Ok jesus,

it definately sounds like your LSN is rich, once up to temp you should be able to let your engine idle for 10-20-second easily and still take off cleanly not stall, also the revs should only pick up very slightly approx 500-1000max.

another way to check is to get up to temp (at least a tank )then give it a good run away from and then back towards you and stop the buggy in front of you.

listen carefully to the idle it should stay consistant and not drop after a few seconds. if the engine comes in revving high and then drops back it is a sure sign that your LSN is rich and your idle is set high to compensate.

give it a try and let me know how you get on

Adrian:tire:

to grizz1 on the 3R it takes 1.5-2 gal. to achieve the max. performance ,thks for that info. anyway i got something to ask i got almost a gal. on my 3R ,should i limit my epa setting or just do up to 3/4 throttle only ??, i'm really dont want to do full throttle thing on the (140ft straight way) what would you say were having a race this weekend...............

If you metal pinch gone the best way is to WOT rich(cyrul) breakin method, but id suggest changing the rod at two gallons.
Why is everone so worried about not opening up the engine until two gallons? Ive run allot of engines and they all seem to run faster when I break them in hard and fast.I could care less if I got seven gallons from a $200 engine, as long as it makes it through two or three big race weekends I got my moneys worth.
I asked about the LSN needle because the Gos needles are still in the spraybar at full throttle, I belive closing them off with a closed carb will deform the spraybar and then your tune goes out the window.