:weird:haven't heard of the needle issue before keep us posted on how you get on

Adrian:tire:

i will keep you updated ill try all these tuning options first before i try the new needle

Thank you sir

Cheesecake, the Novarossi Lsn looks like it will work in the Go carb.

Rex

What's your problem ?? Don't know how to read or have difficulties understanding what you read ?? I just said that there is instructions how to check the cabrs leaking. Also I said Go is good engine and you should not trash it if you just don't know how to tune an engine or don't have intrest to check things first. What is the point you do not get ?

Now, now boys. Lets not throw our toys out of the play pen :D

the fact you didnt have to be a complet fuckstick. ive checked things its not like i took the engine out of the box put it in the car and said hmm it runs like crap its a pile of junk.

its the assholes like you that own go engines that give this engine a bad name and sadly theres more then one of you retards


and i would like to thank all those that have had something positive to say and i will keep everyone else updated

What a good example how mature you are.

I posted a valid points. You explained later on that you've checked things so then it seems OK and in case you really have faulty needle it's important info for others to determine the possible issue from your experiences. From your first post this was not noted. If you and Slaytanic wants to further discuss these fuckstick etc. things I believe PM would be better way so other don't need to read these genious pieces of art.

To to original point, you can find from the various forums (also this one)instructions how to pressure test the carb to find out if it has a leak. Similar way you can find a instructions posted how to JB weld the problematic portion of the carb. Anyway is you have GO with new logos it should have also OK carb. In case you've bought your engine early this year/late last year or even earlier it's good to check in case you have strange beaviour. In addition normal sealing on the carb neck + other parts and back plate and you should be good to go. Now I hope this clarifies what I was looking for when I posted ?

Day 1 recieved engine looked it over left standard button in it put it in buggy started break in and completed break in

day 2 started to race tune it hey its bogging move needles every wich way has the same bog.

day 3 pressure test the engine. really bad carb leak. removed carb and backplate sealed engine up

day 3 still wont tune for crap still bogs on the bottom changed to turbo button.

day 4 oh look the crappy carb restrictor that comes with the engine keeps backing out maybey thats why its lean bogging

day 4 still runs like crap but better but still bogs on the bottom

day 5 pressure tested the engine still good but dissassembled and re sealed the engine and rebuilt the carb

day 6 take buggy to a race and have it bog on the bottom the whole day hmm doesnt do much for clearing jumps on a tight run up

day 7 remove engine from buggy and buy a jammin jpx 21
buggy now runs awesome

day 8 put engine in truggy still bogs spent the whole time at the track turning needles and it still boged







now since you know everything tell me what is wrong with it




***** forgot to add
plug: os p3
pipe: msr 1005
Fuel: byrons gen 2
clutch setup mugen aluminum shoes i have tried .9 1.0 and 1.1 springs still doesnt help the car

Hi guys,

Just want to chime in & say I am impressed by the power of the GO 25 turbo in my TT ST-1. I have had 2 outing with this engine in my new truggy & it rocks !

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ling39/001.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...39/g0ttst1.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ng39/st101.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ling39/002.jpg

Cleared this new triple at the local track with ease :

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/a...ling39/36j.jpg

Regards,
Joe Ling

I said you were a joke my friend becuase you accuse someone of being sloppy and not knowing what they are doing. Maybe you should have asked a few questions first before spouting off. I understood your post fine. Any and all advice is always a good thing. That is what this forum is for. But saying stupid things like "There is no free lunch" does no one any good. Next time before you spout off make sure you understand the situation. I can't stand people with a mouth on the internet. 99% of people have manners and would NEVER talk like that to somone in person. If you have usefull advice that is great. Just be more respectfull. Let drop it now please.

Cheese, I will not be able to break in my mills. I just hope they show up now since they did not get to Racefactor until Tuesday. If it comes why don;t we just yank a carb out and stick it in yours. Can't think of a better way to diagnose this. You are welcome to what I have.

[QUOTE=cheesecake;4513253]Day 1 recieved engine looked it over left standard button in it put it in buggy started break in and completed break in

day 2 started to race tune it hey its bogging move needles every wich way has the same bog.

I believe I've not stated I know everything which I don't but let's try.

Where did the carb leak ? How did you fix it ? What needle positions you had when you started to tune it after breaking in ? How you started to tune it and when it started to bog ? What were the settings where you ended before sealing the carb / did you try factory defaults ? Where you ever close to the 3/4-1turn in HSN 1.5turn in LSN ?

What do you mean by restrictor backing out ? It raises from it's position somehow or what ? What where the needle settings after this ?

When you rebuilded the carb I assume you checked that it had all o-rings etc. in place, no damages in them etc. ? When you say it leanbogs low what is the idling like ? When you richen it low how does the idle beahave then ? During all this it still clears properly on WOT and is strong on top with good smoke trail ? When you richen it does it get rid of the lean bog and in the same time start to load up so no idle ?

yle

cheese, i love the first version style go LSN, it's like the NR, short and blunt, i have a few if you don't want to tear down the NR, just shoot me your address.

Ok, managed to get to the track this evening for a few hours practise / testing.

I reset the needles as you guys suggested and found that I had to lean the HSN in about 1 1/4 turns to get it to rev up at all. Ended up about 1 1/2 turns in from flush and I think it's still a little rich, but pulls so well, I thought I would leave it. After 9 laps, I temped it at 213F, which in my book is just about right. I am sure I could go a little leaner, but getting almost 10 minute runtime with a 2047 pipe in my Hyper ST is great.

The only problem I have is that when the tank is full, it goes great guns even from the low end which is just stupid for a 21, but when it starts to get to the last 1/4 of a tank, it just doesn't have the same punch out of the corners. I am assuming that I could richen up my low speed a little to solve this. I already richened it up about 1/2 turn from where it was on the LSN and still have this issue. Any ideas on this one?

Other than that, had some great laps and managed to knock 3 seconds off my average lap times with my quickest lap on the last tank which is still around 1 1/2 secs slower than my personal best. Track was horrendous though, no grip at all with the almost bald tyres I had on as there was so much dust on the racing line.

try checking your fuel tank for air leaks the way you describe your problem you may have a crack someware in the mold joint in the center of the tank this would cause it to run fine when the tank is full but once the fuel is below the leak it will suck air in causing it to run lean