Go here and/or search his posts. He's got it down
 

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=1638

Make sure you heat that puppy up and maintain at least 200 F during each tank.

I did use a heatgun for the first 2 tanks. Just couldn't get it to idle without the igniter on it. Had foil on the head also. Maybe my setting s were off. It putted around well and held idle on fourth tank.

Anyone!!!

Many users are using the OS P3 plugs in my region.

We have OS here too but i wanted to try Novarossi plugs as well.

I had a 5-port for a customer do the same thing. Runs fine now.

You can use Nova Rossi plugs also, but you will have to double washer the plugs, because they are longer than the Go plugs or the OS plugs, I'm not sure if NR has a short plug or not, I know Odonnell makes a short plug, McCoy does also, this is for the standard head Correct? Turbos you can use whatever you want, they are the same length.

Sorry if this a noob question but why are they called turbo plugs or turbo mills if there is no turbine attached to the motor like a turbo in a 1:1 car? I never understood the difference between standard and turbo does the turbo run hotter? Is it mill getting more air? What are the advantages of these mills (turbo) over standard mills ?

Turbo motors dont have to have an outside turbo. The turbo part is inside the motor. Turbos have different heads and use plugs that do not recquire a washer. They dont necessarily run hotter just get a bit more horsepower. The sleeve and crank can also be done in certain ways to allow more fuel to the combustion chamber. Hope that answers your question.

"Turbo" is just a term of phrase used to describe motors fitted with a particular type of heab button (a turbo head button). Nothing to do with actually being turbocharged like a normal car, however there are performance benefits in using a turbo head and plug.
With a standard head the plug has a standard thread and fits into the head button with a washer. The plug protrudes slightly into the combustion chamber and causes slight turbulance during combustion.
A turbo head and plug have a tapered thread and no washer is required. Because of the tapered thread and the more rounded shape of the combustion chamber on the turbo head button, the plug is a snug fit and does not protrude into the combustion chamber. This gives a better combustion chamber with less turbulance and better flame propagation during combustion (like a hemi head in a standard car) thus making a little more power.
Turbo RC motors generally make a little more power right across the rev range, and idle a little smoother too. Some motors will rev out a little more with a turbo plug. Only down side is the turbo plugs cost a little more then standard ones. Most high performance nitro motors are turbo head design. Other manufacturers offer a turbo head button as an option that can purchased as an after market add on.

Hi go community!

I'm still undecided on these GO 3 rspec motors...

My brother and I both run them. We've been running them for a few months. We have 4, 3 port motors now. I've resleeved my first motor a broke that back in. We've experienced most of what is discussed in this thread. The pinch is insane when they are new and break in does take a while, but our motors have been losing there pinch after about 3 gallons of fuel (Byrons gen 2 30% with 11% oil). I don't know how people are getting 7-10 gallons of fuel, unless they are talking about the 5 and 7 ports. The carbs have been tough to tune sometimes...I've learned to be very careful with the HSN not to bring on the lean bog. I've also had the O rings in both needles start to come apart on every carb i've had so far. Not a difficult fix but it sucks if this happens during a race weekend and your scrambling to try and figure it out 10 mins before the main.
I've also blown many glow plugs at the track trying to get the motor tuned and maybe the LSN was a tad too lean. We run the 086 pipe and tried several different plugs Odonnel 99T, OS P6, Novarossi. I might get 7 min on a good day running a 150cc tank in a buggy.Temping 240-250

Last weekend I was approached by another racer asking me if i've had trouble with my GO's because he's having carb issues. He's going to the OS vspec carb.

Anyone finding that the motor is alot better with the OS VSPEC carb?

Quick question: What's the stock carb setting (HSN & LSN) for the 5-port Go Tech (non turbo)? Thanks.

HSN 1 turn out from flush
lsn 1/2 turn in from flush

Hey Jedi do you mean the pinch is gone or the compression is gone, as there is a big difference.

Eg pinch is when your piston is still binding with the sleave at the top of the stoke (TDC top dead center) and compression is what your engine requires to burn your fuel effectively.

the way to tell the difference is to remove the glow plug and turn the engine over with your hand, if you feel resistance at the top of your stroke or the piston binds then you still have pinch, if there is no resistance then the pinch is gone - this is what you want as you should not be race tuning an engine until the pinch is gone.

to check compression put the glow plug back in - with the engine out of the vehicle and no pipe assembly on hold the engine by the flywheel and tilt it to about 45 degrees then gently rock it about 1cm- 1/2 an inch the engine should be able to hold its own weight if it doesn't then the compression is gone.


I hope your not resleaving your engines when the pinch goes as this is when you should be starting to race tune.

If your trying to race tune while you still have pinch this maybe causing your low end bog, high temperatures and low run times

I've never experienced O rings breaking down. I'm getting around 9.5 mins of run time using 25% Nitro 7.5% oil with 0801 pipe Novarossi No.6 plug 125cc tank in a losi 8

Hope this helps Adrian

Hey Adrian, I see your using the 0801 pipe and Pauls clear rocket fuel !!!! What do you think ? Pretty good on both counts eh :nod: