new pipe
 

I was wanting to get a new pipe for my 3port r and was wondering if anybody has tried the dynamite 086 and the go 0801. Is there much difference between the two?

086 is the best bang for your buck. If you are not on a budget the 0801 I hear is a bit better. However, from running my ptm 3port r with the 086 I dont see how any more power could be pulled from this mill.

clarksib is spot on. 086 if your on a budget. However the 0801 is the better pipe. It has top end just like the 086, but it has more bottom end due to the longer header. I believe it suits the 3 ports better because of this extra bottom end.
As a comparison, I used to run the 053 Dynamite on my 7 port which was the recommended pipe and it was great, but the 0801 on the 7 port is ballistic.
If you can spare the cash I would put the 0801 on any of the Go's - 3, 5, and 7. You won't be disappointed !!!

Sorry I wasn't too clear in my first post. I was actually talking about the compression. I do as you described, turning the motor over with no plug to check the pinch. When I feel the motor turn over smooth with no metal binding or pinch that's when we begin to race tune.

I have never checked the compression with the method you described I will have to try that. Most of the time I turn the motor over in the buggy with the plug in... I've found that if it takes a very firm finger to turn it over all is well. But after 3 gallons the motor is turning over very easy with 1 finger and starts stalling at very inconvenient times... like the start of the main when we go down quiet for 5 seconds, or refueling

When the motor is new or relatively new it will idle all day and run great. Then as I said once the compression drops the inconsistencies start. I know somethings up when I have the screw driver in my hand all practice long trying to get a balance between the LSN setting and the idle stop to try and make sure that stalls are not going to ruin my day.
My brother made a tool that we will repinch some of our sleeves with. I have stocked up on some ceramic bearings and O rings.

When people state that they are getting 7-10 gallons on these motors, is that with the original piston and sleeve? or the mill itself?

Im at 9 gallons on my 'sport' Go Tech and it has plenty of compression, all original.

Sounds like you boys might have been a bit severe on the break in. These motors are very tight when new (which is a good thing), and require the proper break in and running conditions through the first 1.5 - 2 gal. If you are patient during these first couple of gallons you will be rewarded with a motor that will perform well for a long time. Like the guys are saying, 7 - 9 gallons for a piston and sleeve is not out of the ordinary. Running a few tanks through and then heading off racing won't make for a long lifespan. How did you break your motors in ?

yes my first 7port is a gen 1 engine and is still on the original piston and sleave with well over 10 gallons on it the only thing that I have replaced apart from the Gen1 carb is the bearings and rod at about 8 gallons.


Hey grizz I've been running the MM fuel through paul for a couple of meets and yeh it's really good fuel. the 0801 was nice on the 3portR it had more top end than the 2047 with the long header but the 2047 had more bottom end

I am getting ready to begin the break-in on my new GO 5pt. turbo. I will be using the method on page 78, but I am unsure about what to do as far as shims. I am going to be using Odonells 30% and a P3 plug. What do I do as far as shims for break-in and then for when I begin to race tune. Thanks in advance.

Go Tech engines are shimmed for 30% nitro out of the box. To help ease the break-in process, intall the extra shim to help turn the engine over. Most people leave that shim in until the hit the 1-1.5 gallon mark. Once you are finished with the break-in process, keep the tune slightly on the rich side of a race tune until the pinch is gone. Once the pinch is gone, then you can race tune to get peak performance. Good luck.

Maybe we are taking the engines to the track too early...
Guilty as charged.

As far as break-in...

I've never user the extra shim, maybe I should.
We pre heat the engines usually 200 thats as hot as I can get it with the hair dryer. I usually turn the LSN out 1/4 and foil the head and idle the first tank out at 220-230. They have had no problem idling the first tanks, I usually see raw fuel spitting out as it idles for a half hour. I place the piston BDC and let the motor cool down to 110-105. I've tried 2 approaches from this point my first motor Idled almost 10 tanks out just like the first. Then I began to drive it around limiting the throttle end point 25% for a tank or to, lean the LSN an hour drive around at 50% enpoint , 75%... gradually leaning out the LSN and loosing the foil trying to get the temp at 230. The second motor I was more aggressive going to the driving and leaning process a little earlier. I did notice the pinch and then compression disapeered faster with this method.


Sometimes running it rich to get the lubrication (since the metal on metal pinch is still there) I dont get the temps I want for heat cycling. So I'm guessing the foil should still be on there to get the correct temps is the better method. This is where my patience may be failing as I begin to tune leaner and begin to rip around our practice track especially with the second engine.

So from what I've read here I should be taking it easier on breakin.

Questions:
1)How many tanks should I simply idle through it?
2)What temps do you guys(the guys getting 7+ gallons out of a piston/sleeve) run until the pinch has reduced to race level?
3) How are you getting those temps while breaking in, foil? leaning hour by hour on the LSN?

Sorry I wrote you guys a book, but I appreciate all the advice

Well put my 7th tank thru the engine in my buggy today. Only thottled to 50%, but wow does this 3 port race pick up and move. Running fat I could tell this baby has gobs of torque.

hey is anyone having problems with the front bearings leaking

I have the same problem at the old go engines, but my new engines have not the front bearing leaking. Maybe they have new front bearing at the new engines.

How bad? Both my Go's have a little leakage on the front, nothing I would worry about though.

I was able to run my GO 3prt R today with the new shorter LSN needle and my tuning issue is now gone. I am very happy with it now.