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Originally Posted by Chedster
(Post 4685300)
.7mm-1mm seems like a starting point. Adjust to proper idle then when you fire it up.
I shaved some off the ends of the pich bolt but it did not stop the carb wiggle. Now You can feel it tighten down on the carb neck but it's still not tight for some reason. I went ahead and sealed it up and will finish break-in and may contact racefactor about it. Thanks for the help guys. |
I emailed Racefactor about my loose carb and they said to Jb weld it myself or I could send it in to be done. I would rather do it myself so I do not have to pay shipping on it. I would rather just exchange if for a new motor but oh well. Anyone have any tips on welding it on there.
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Originally Posted by Chedster
(Post 4686424)
I emailed Racefactor about my loose carb and they said to Jb weld it myself or I could send it in to be done. I would rather do it myself so I do not have to pay shipping on it. I would rather just exchange if for a new motor but oh well. Anyone have any tips on welding it on there.
User name "scwrod" describes the process and associated info :cool: |
Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 4682830)
Had a similar thing happen on one of the 5 ports I owned. Just shaved a few thou of each pinch bolt end as MM suggested and it worked sweet as. Check the bottom carb "O" ring (the brown one in the crankcase body) before you reassemble, as the movement you have been experiancing in the carb can sometimes chew this "O" ring up a bit. Now you have a better fit with the pinch bolts just remember not to do them up too tight, or you can damage the carb throat. :cool:
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I have a couple of like new Go Tech carbs. PM me if interested.
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Originally Posted by Chedster
(Post 4686998)
Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?
Out of ideas on that one I'm afraid. Haven't laid eyes on a Gen 5 motor yet :cry: |
Hi Guys,
I have a problem with my go 21 3 port sport engine, when running it makes an intermittant "rattle" sound that is definately coming from the engine not the car. I'm pretty new to nitro and have never taken an engine apart before, I've read up about it but if any of you guys might have an idea what it could be before i start work stripping it down that would be fantastic! Cheers Paul |
Originally Posted by Chedster
(Post 4686998)
Since the Gen5 motors no longer have the plastic sleeve how the heck do I get the hole and carb neck to Jb weld?
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Anyone know what mm the standard carb insert is with the Go .21 5 port? Thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by Logie
(Post 4690163)
Anyone know what mm the standard carb insert is with the Go .21 5 port? Thanks in advance.
8mm |
Small video of my .25 mounted on truggy. Small race this weekend, TQ'ed and leading the race until a marshall busted my truck lol !! its on video !! :
http://www.revver.com/video/1073224/...actions-shots/ hope you enjoy ... im the pink truck ... cya, |
Originally Posted by Tabushi
(Post 4690263)
Small video of my .25 mounted on truggy. Small race this weekend, TQ'ed and leading the race until a marshall busted my truck lol !! its on video !! :
http://www.revver.com/video/1073224/...actions-shots/ hope you enjoy ... im the pink truck ... cya, |
1 Attachment(s)
I found that the carb is wiggling were the carb neck goes into the carb main body. I see no way to unscrew it to Jb weld it. Any ideas?
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 4686166)
It is important you set the needles, especialy the LSN with this .7 - 1mm gap for a proper tune and performance, otherwise you run into the problem of a false tune with a rich LSN and a lean HSN but the motor will still run reasonable (with associated problems) - all due to the idle gap being too wide. Hope this all makes sense ;)
I had this exact issue as my idle gap was a little high.... setting the gap to .7mm made a huge improvement. |
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