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Originally Posted by Quietman
(Post 4490303)
Hi Guys
I have a go 7 port just a few questions. How can you tell if it is a 08 spec. I took my head off to install a turbo head and i did not see any shims at all. I am using the nosram plugs which are the same as the lrp number 8 i am using a hong nor 2047 pipe with a longer header pipe A few weekends ago it was very hot weather outside and my engine was getting to a 120c dont no what it is in f how can i reduce the temp of the engine but if possible not loosing too much power. Thanks |
Originally Posted by cherokee180c
(Post 4485684)
Grizz1,
Thanks so much for the help. I got the carb out last night and can see exactly what you mean by needing to grind the ends of the pinch pieces to tighten it up a bit. I also found the problem. The older design carb (not sure if the new ones have fixed this or not) has 4 plastic nubs that are molded into the metal sleeve to stop it from spinning. I barely used any force at all (hand wiggle) to try and loosen the carb, but with the pinch bolts holding the outer metal sleeve tight, it broke those nubs free from the plastic carb body and now the metal sleeve rotates on the plastic housing. Racefactor told me to simply JB weld the metal sleeve onto the plastic and then clean it up and put it back in. The lower oring did get chewed up a bit from the twisting action. Can anybody let me know what part number that is or if another companies oring will fit fine? Thanks again to everyone for all the assistance! heres some small tips for anyone looking at removing a go carb #1. remove both sides of the pinch bolt completely. #2. don't "wiggle" the carb from side to side as this can loosen the tabs that hold the sleave on the main body just pull the carb straight up (this can be a little hard some times). just one more thing to check is to make sure that your end points on full throttle and full brakes have alittle play to allow for chassis flex as over pulling or over pushing the carb can also cause this "loose" effect. I haven't seen the carb on the Gen 5 (08 spec) engines yet but the most resent carb I have has the 4 lugs. the first carb I had only had 1 lug the 2nd carb had 2 hope this helps Adrian:tire: |
Hi Adrian, Yeah - I had that thought myself when I looked at grinding a tiny bit off the pinch bolt ends. The carb was really quite loose, to the point were it had chewed out the bottom washer with the movement of the base of the carb barrel. Seemed like the only answer. Only took a little bit off, reinstalled carb and sealed with RTV (including pinch bolts) and the carb is now nice and firm. Seems a few others have had to do the same thing going on previous posts. I was very careful nipping the pinch bolts up. It is my spare engine now as I have put a 7 Port in my buggy, so I won't be running it for a while I guess (at least I hope not, because that will mean my 7 Port has bit the dust !!!). Hoping the weather stays fine for us to get out and have a play over the weekend.
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Did it to my 3 port R yesterday and tested it as well.
It secured the carb better now and there is no movement at all. I think it's REQUIRED!!! |
Originally Posted by Poinas2
(Post 4492146)
As stated you should have shimms there. Where did you get the engine from ? Also 120C is not too much for that engine. You are comfortable running it up to 130C depending on the weather, tune and track conditions.
The engine came from our local shop but it was ordered from smd who are the disributers in the uk.If i need shims how many and which ones.The engines always runs good,just concered about the temp. Cheers |
i have never had to grind any carb components in 2 years of running these engines, it is possible that it got over tightned and is now tweeked and cant be tightned enough to hold it in.
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Brian34, i will be looking for it.
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Hey guys i am new to go engines i have been running vspecs and i am trying these motors. I am getting the 7 port and the 3 port race and the 0801 pipe. I was wondering which to start with, i run a 777 wc buggy. What are the differences between the motors? Cant wait till they get here. I was thinking of starting with the 7 port turbo first any thoughts
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Originally Posted by mugenb46
(Post 4493155)
i have never had to grind any carb components in 2 years of running these engines, it is possible that it got over tightned and is now tweeked and cant be tightned enough to hold it in.
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Chim start with the 3 spec.
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 4493831)
OOPS :weird: Carb neck was in perfect shape when it came out. It seems like a lot of guys are having the same problem. Time will tell if wev'e screwed up I guess :cool:
I once over tightened the carb bolt and pinch the carb to where it broke the bond with the carb neck and the aluminum sleeve that goes over it.....Took me forever to figure out why the carb wouldn`t stay in place.. |
what is the difference between the two and why the three port
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Originally Posted by chim13
(Post 4494000)
what is the difference between the two and why the three port
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Well I did some testing today and ran 10:40 with my 7port turbo today in my buggy running WFO 50% of the time. Running in My Rc8 with a 16 tooth bell, stock clutch setup, dynamite 053 pipe, werks medium conical header 6mm RB restrictor werks 30% with axial cold plug.
I belive theres still more to be had with a hotter plug but it runs fantastic at 210-220. |
Chim the 3 port will be really similar for you since you run v specs.
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