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Originally Posted by skeller
(Post 4496764)
No it's not.
Is the OCM Redline 3 chamber pipe? Can you please briefly describe the power characteristics of the Redline pipe? How does the Rdline pipe compare to the Go 0801 pipe? Thank you:nod: |
Originally Posted by Jesussaves
(Post 4496829)
Skeller,
Is the OCM Redline 3 chamber pipe? Can you please briefly describe the power characteristics of the Redline pipe? How does the Rdline pipe compare to the Go 0801 pipe? Thank you:nod: |
Originally Posted by skeller
(Post 4496877)
Honestly...I don't know any details on the pipe. It doesn't have a number...and outwardly it most resembles an 053. So far it seems to offer good power all through the rpm range...most noteably on the bottom end.
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Originally Posted by Jesussaves
(Post 4496923)
Thanks Shane, much appreciated.:nod:
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Originally Posted by chim13
(Post 4496297)
just finished breaking in my 7 port and all i can say is wow. I started with this one cause my 3 port and 0801 pipe are not here yet. I followed the break in that was on race factors site and it went pretty smooth took along time but no problems. I was wondering this motor is so tight that even when i get done with a tank i cant turn it over by hand, do they stay tight for along time. SO far i like what i see let you know more tomarrow is my first race with it. I have a os 2050 on it right now and it has tons of power cant wait for the 0801 to show up.
I believe the 3 Ports are not quite as tight from new. D Hunt 3 - Good starting point for the 5 Port Turbo is HSN flush and LSN 1.5 turns in from flush. The HSN is pretty much right at flush, then you can lean the LSN some more for a wicked bottom end. These motors like to run a little fat on top and a little lean down the bottom. |
Im looking to order a 5 port, it looks like some of you have had carb problems that are easily fixed. Do the 08 models have this problem fixed? Who has the 08 models in stock? Thanks guys
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Hi guys, me again. Seems like the temps on the temp gun I mentioned before were way out, if anything I was still a little too rich.
I had my first race today with my Hyper ST and Go 21 5 port, was awesome. I had a nightmare of a final though. Engine died one the start line and then proceeded to be hard to start and then died everytime the revs got too low. When starting it would start, run for about 10 seconds and then die, no matter whether I had the throttle half, full or at idle????? What could cause this? It ran faultlessly otherwise during the qualifiers and temped at the end of each of those at around 240F with the ambient around the 65F to 70F mark During the final I had to change the brand new plug I had put in before the 4 5 minute qualifiers with a new one to get it to run properly. There is still good smoke to the point that it runs stupid rich when cold and the top of the piston and the roof of the button is really black, which I was told was good???? Why is it behaving this way and chewing up glow plugs like that? The glow plug I removed still works, but not all the way up the filament. I have used 3 glow plugs since last nights practise which I managed about 4 tanks only. Just to recap, it is a Go 21 5 port (07 spec) running Mccoy MC-9 and Byron's 25% Gen 2. The engine has a little over 2 gallons now and still has really really good compression. |
Originally Posted by Jesussaves
(Post 4496829)
Skeller,
Is the OCM Redline 3 chamber pipe? Can you please briefly describe the power characteristics of the Redline pipe? How does the Rdline pipe compare to the Go 0801 pipe? Thank you:nod: |
Originally Posted by Chedster
(Post 4497774)
Im looking to order a 5 port, it looks like some of you have had carb problems that are easily fixed. Do the 08 models have this problem fixed? Who has the 08 models in stock? Thanks guys
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Originally Posted by SqueegUK
(Post 4498037)
Hi guys, me again. Seems like the temps on the temp gun I mentioned before were way out, if anything I was still a little too rich.
I had my first race today with my Hyper ST and Go 21 5 port, was awesome. I had a nightmare of a final though. Engine died one the start line and then proceeded to be hard to start and then died everytime the revs got too low. When starting it would start, run for about 10 seconds and then die, no matter whether I had the throttle half, full or at idle????? What could cause this? It ran faultlessly otherwise during the qualifiers and temped at the end of each of those at around 240F with the ambient around the 65F to 70F mark During the final I had to change the brand new plug I had put in before the 4 5 minute qualifiers with a new one to get it to run properly. There is still good smoke to the point that it runs stupid rich when cold and the top of the piston and the roof of the button is really black, which I was told was good???? Why is it behaving this way and chewing up glow plugs like that? The glow plug I removed still works, but not all the way up the filament. I have used 3 glow plugs since last nights practise which I managed about 4 tanks only. Just to recap, it is a Go 21 5 port (07 spec) running Mccoy MC-9 and Byron's 25% Gen 2. The engine has a little over 2 gallons now and still has really really good compression. |
I am running the standard shims, I think it's one ali and two copper (or the other way around).
I cannot run it any leaner, it just runs way too hot then. I had it running once where I thought it was absoluetly awesome, but it seemed really really hot, so I richened it up a little. It was a total handful at that point, I must add. My HSN is in from flush quote some way already. I think I will strip herdown and give her a good going over and clean up and start again. How would putting the other copper shim in affect it and will this help with my glow plug issue? |
Originally Posted by SqueegUK
(Post 4498158)
I am running the standard shims, I think it's one ali and two copper (or the other way around).
I cannot run it any leaner, it just runs way too hot then. I had it running once where I thought it was absoluetly awesome, but it seemed really really hot, so I richened it up a little. It was a total handful at that point, I must add. My HSN is in from flush quote some way already. I think I will strip herdown and give her a good going over and clean up and start again. How would putting the other copper shim in affect it and will this help with my glow plug issue? |
I will try that again, but last time I tried that, she would hardly even pull off, she was so rich.
I had my LSN in about 3 turns from flush and the HSN flush and it was so boggy and wouldn't get above 100F. She just refused to rev up, with oil and unburnt fuel spewing out of the pipe. But I will keep at it and tune as you recommend. Will post my findings on here again. Thanks again for your advice. |
don't be hesitant to adjust the HSN when you get the bottom right, go in more on the LSN to get a good idle and pull from the bottom with a bit of hesitation, then adjust the HSN to make it run fast, it won't take much once the LSN is set right.
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Just to confirm what Brian is saying - I had an almost identical problem with my 5 Port some time ago. Piston and head really black and blowing plugs all the time. It was exactly as Brian suggests. The top end was too lean and the bottom was way too rich (about 1.5 turns in my case) and yet the motor ran OK but did get hot at the end of a tank, hence the wear on the plugs.
Cured mine by setting HSN flush and LSN 1.5 in from flush, then tuning the LSN leaner 1/8th of a turn at a time until I got a steady idle that didn't drop and good take off. Then fine tuned with pinch test. Just out of interest you may want to check the idle gap as well. The other part of my problem was the idle gap was too wide, giving a false tune and idle that seemed OK but in fact the rich bottom end was compensating for a too wide an idle gap and sort of ¨flooding¨ the motor into running what seemed like normal. Set idle gap at .7 mm and tune from there. When both needles are set correctly then adjust the idle gap if necessary to get the idle speed you want. |
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