GO also has a restrictor kit.
6.5,7,7.5 and 8mm comes in the package. They are aluminum and color coded.

I have been running the 6.5 in my 3R from day 1.

Why would you buy those restrictors? Go makes some awesome ones, 4 piece set for $13.00. They are anodized aluminum all different colors. I have like 5 sets for sale if anyone needs them.

Rex

squeeguk

the updated crank has more mass on the counterweight on the trailing side, normally this adds a smoother feel on the bottom and reaches a higher rpm= pulls longer and the mid show more grunt as well as top.

22racer, email me a quote at [email protected] please

shipped to 28052

Good deal. Didn't know you were stocking them. Couldn't find a link on the Go versions.

Can you put this same crank in the older 5 port?

Cheers, thanks for that. So I assume that the timing, etc. is still the same then?

where wouldm some one purchase the GO restrictors from?

In need of help fast!
 

Hey evryone,this is my first post here and im extremely desperate for help here as I plan on racing tomorrow and cant figure out my problem.I have a Go 3port in my Hyper 8.5 and had a bad accident at the track today.I went over a big jump and scraped the wall on the way down.In the process I broke a few of the fins off of my cooling head and snapped the HSN off.I replaced the HSN with my MACstar .28 needle.My buddy who ons the track has a 21 5 port and gave me his head (grey) because he got an after market one.So i get everything hooked up and when all 4 tires are on ground and I try to move the car the flywheel wants to spin with the car.So in a nutshell.I try to move the car and it wont move due to the flywheel moving with it.Any help soon would be awesome and greatly appreciated.I dont know if its the shims or something other than that.I have 3 shims on there.Also,I changed glow plugs to a Mccoy mc9.

Sounds like you have a clutch problem. Pull the cb off and
check the clutch shoes, springs and check the flywheel pins
to make sure they didn't get bent.

Thank you
 

Im not sure what the problem was but when i took the engine out the clutch bell seemed to move freely.Thank you for your time and answer.After I installed the engine everything is moving fine.

i would still remove the clutch bell and check things out it could have been a sticking shoe but to be on the safe side check them out and check to see if there is a problem

Hi All,

Can some one tell me if an OS VG carb will drop/fit straight into a Go 3p R spec?

I changed motors today and dropped my worn out VG and it was so easy to tune, simply a breezeeeeeeeeeee. :nod::confused:

And yes I did use same clutch, shoes, springs, fuel, pipe.......ect

The only reason I haven’t tried it myself is because the OS VG carb is sealed with silicon and I didn't want to go through all the mess of cleaning, sealing, reinstalling, ect …….

Thanks for all your help

well i just hit the gallon mark on my 5 port turbo engine. starting to race tune and started to get a loud grinding noise while idiling. i tore the engine down today and found the outer race of the rear bearing cracked. is this normal for these bearings to have problems so soon? i emailed russell @ Racefactor and hopefully he can get me a replacement bearing. kinda bummed about this but i have a half gallon on a 3 port r and hoping not to have the same issue:confused:

Hi All,

Just finished sealing my 3p R spec.

I need help in the following areas please.....

1 The sleeve was easy to remove but I could not take rod out, just would not come out :confused:could some one give me any hints please... The night before I completely stripped and cleaned my OS VG and everything just popped out

2 The 3p R spec has 2 shims from factory, Does it matter which way the shims are placed back in? Or does have to Brass 1st then Sliver or vice verse?

Thanks for all you help..