I just ordered two of the Traxxas Emaxx 23t motors and Losi pinions.

... anyone knows a witch ?, im cursed !!

Well guys, this is the race report from my last race, helded 14th and 15th March 2009 at "Team Talca" Track :

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...cropCustom.jpg


Saturday 14th. Activities started about 14hrs, i put together my stuff, charged batteries and went to try out the track. My idea was to test couple tires to decide what to use on qualies first. I ended choosing VP PRO 803 Strikers for the first 2 qualies. On the first 10 minutes run i did sort of good but i was getting too much traction so couple traction rolls during my run, for the second 10 minutes qualy i decided to cut the outer and inner pins of the tire, great results very fast but still a little uncomfortable with too much traction and as i felt comfortable with the rest of the setup i decided to give a try to VP PRO 802 Cutoffs and was a very good idea. End of the day about 21.00hrs and 4th position for A-Main as qualy result, i was very very happy and worked couple hours on the car checking everything. Remember that im racing the Matrix R2 "RTR" so i prefer to double check everything before each race.

Sunday morning, finals. The A-Main on my country championship its 40 minutes long. During the pre-race practice i noted the track was a little more loose and i was using a very agressive diff setup (7-7-3) so i was feeling a little understeer and just a tab loose on the rear, i just adjusted the suspension to seat the car lower and there we went !. I started on 4th position, drifted a little too much on the start but i managed to at least not get stuck on heavy traffic on the first curve, too sad couple guys cut the track and race director didnt paid attention (will see on the video). All was very good up to minute 9 or 10 aprox and by that point i was leading the race by 1/4 of track lenght or so when suddenly while a landing on the big triple jump my engine stops, GO Engines are very reliable so first thing in mind was loose clutchbell or something like that. After a slow run of marshal to the pits my pitman checked everything, couple minutes later all was "checked" but the engine didnt start yet ... changed glow plug and nothing and suddenly my pitman see that the pipe holder was loose, and the pipe was pressing the fuel line arrrghhh !!, he loosed the fuel line and the engine came alive again. Almost 6 minutes on the pits was a very bad situation, but i continued racing from last position and managed to end 7th by the end of the a-main. Hope to do it better next time after a sould cleaning by a witch lol !!! to kill bad luck !!.

All my equipment worked great, 802 VP PRO Tires were great and almost no wear after 10 minute qualy + 40 minutes a-main and the engine did it great piting at 8 1/2 - 9 minutes with a full runtime of 10 minutes and 37 seconds on 6.5mm restrictor and 0801 GO Pipe and as fast (and faster) as any other engine at the track.


This is how the a-main ended :

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ados_buggy.jpg


You can watch the video here : http://www.vimeo.com/3759989

cya !

Rod replacement
 

Are there any key indicators, tricks, or techniques to know when a rod needs to be replaced? I noticed a few scratches on the back plate and rod where they rubbed together. Is this a signal that a rod needs replacement? My 7 Port is about 2 gal old and I babied it (Heat cycled and light runs)for about 1 gal and preheated before every run. I just replaced the bearings with TKO ceramics and I was wondering if the rod needs to go. I have a race this Sat. Will the rod giver me a few more runs? 2 practice, 2 quals, a 1 main.

You should have done the rod with the bearings I just did the same TKO's rod pin and clips at 2.5 gallons. Usually anyone will tell you to swap the rod at 2-3 gallons I just did mine and it really didnt need it but the engine will last longer.

Agree with Malik, but in my case i do use the engine without too much internal changes until they die usually. My 7 port its 5 gallons 1/4 and still strong and not received any special attention more than lube till now.

Now ... that scratch on the backplate may be generated by the fact you didnt moved the shaft to the front when you installed the flywheel.

cya !

The reason the rod needs to be replaced is because the bushing wears. If you have the backplate off check for slop of the rod on the crank pin. I run longer before changing rods than most, but I use a bore guage to see how much it's worn. The bore guage measures down to .0001 inch.
Most people just change the rods often for piece of mind and Go has reasonable priced rods.
The scratches on the rod and backplate are normal and are not an indicator of rod needing to be replaced. Your motor will be fine for another weekend.

Taking the wrist pin clips off can be a pain at times, It is a good idea to change the clips when you change the rod. Especially on the exhaust side, for some reason if a clip comes out it's usually the exhast side. (I am guessing heat has something to do with it)

Rex

Rod
 

I'd replace the rod if there were one left in captivity to purchase. I'm going to run the thing Sat. and hopefully somebody will get some rods in to order soon.

Does the scratches on the back plate mean anything? There isn't much but I know the first 7 port I owned had a lot more than this one but it still ran?

You have a pm!

Bore Guage
 

Where did you find a bore gauge that small? I have some calipers that may work but I can't find a bore gauge that small.

What is the allowable tolerance between the rod and crank pin?

+1 I would like to purchase a rod for my 5-port now because I'll burn through 2 gallons rather quickly.

I'm suddenly glad I buy 2 spare rods and clips etc automatically when I buy a new engine..

I am a machinist we lots of tools at work. A caliper is almost useless when checking crank wear. I consider a motor a backup when the crank is worn .002 inch, with a slightly used rod thats .003 total, probably wont last much more than a gallon then?
Here's a pic of the new Hard coated crank, this one I drilled and epoxy ramped.

Rex
http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/p...mg_1627_00.jpg
http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/p...mg_1628_00.jpg

Does anyone know where I can find a Go .25 cooling head? or does any dealer here have any in stock?

here's my go 5-port

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...6/DSC05333.jpg

What head is that?