Dynamite 086 or the GO FEMCA 0801 will have that 5 Port screaming :nod:

question on the carb thing,, it has been said that there is a long lsn version and a short lsn version and one was more problematic than the other. i forget which is which though.

Got me Go engines last night and looking into the carb at wot the needle still crosses the entire opening, is that the long one or was something else being measured to determine that?

Now i just need the pipe to arrive and i will see what this puppy will do.


Also is the flop test a good way to measure compression with these? the one with just a little run time isnt making 10 seconds on the flop with mm oil in the cyl.

Go .25 head
 

I sent you a pm about a GO .25 head I have for sale.

i have a .21 7 port with 086 pipe on a losi 8ight-t 2.0 is that a good pipe engine combo?

Maybe if it had a 053, I've never tried a 7P but I know it's mostly a top end engine and mostly used on buggies, if you feel you need more grunt then try the 053 pipe.

053 is the better pipe for the 7 Port. On a short track the 0801 is pretty good. Best all round pipe is the 2047 with the long header off the 0801 - nice.



Sounds like you have the long LSN version. The shorter version has the needle coming out of the spray bar somewhere between 3/4 to full throttle.
The long LSN tunes different. Set the HSN at flush AND LEAVE IT THERE.
Now tune the motor with the LSN only until it's good right thru the range. Now if you need to, just tweak the HSN a fraction to get the very top end crisp (1/8 turn in should do it).
Because the LSN needle stays in the spray bar at full throttle, you need the top end rich (flush needle setting). to let enough fuel past the spray bar at full throttle. The carb is designed this way to provide a smooth power band and good economy. It works well, just has to be tuned as described above.
If you try to tune it conventionally, it will give you trouble with lean bog etc.
Tune it as described and never turn that HSN more than 1/4 to 1/2 a turn in from flush and you will be very pleased with performance and economy.

Thank you very much. I have two here, one used and one new the used one i can see the needle going all the way into the spray bar at WOT and the new one i see is just slightly going into the spray bar at wot maybe flush to just a hair in, i can barely see the end of it. this is with them both being flush on both needles

OK. The new one may have an intermediate needle that GO introduced for about 10 months or so. It is just a little shorter than the long LSN, but nowhere near as short as the original short model - confused now !!!! :confused:

This intermediate needle just means you can go in a little more on the HSN, and tune more like a conventional carb. I am guessing you will end up with the HSN in about 1 - 1.5 turns from flush, and the LSN about 1.5 - 2 in from flush for a good tune, but don't quote me on that.

My new engine wont idle. I have done only half a tank and restarted it a dozen (more than that even) times.

It runs for 20-30 seconds then dies (sometimes revs up, sometimes just burbles to its death). I increase the idle but that just makes it die quicker.

Ideas?

Should I lean the LSN a bit? I have LSN flush, and HSN 1/2 rich from flush.

3 port Rspec.

Ok, I purchased a new .21 3 Port Sport the other day and I am trying to figure out which Gen it is so I know how to tune it.

The needle tip does not become visible even at WOT so I presume I have the newer style that needs to be tuned with the LSN while leaving the HSN alone right?

Thanks

Passin it along for what its worth...I have been running Odonn 20% since run in on a 3sport I am running and always had screwy temps ,wouldnt idle for crap,etc...I purchased another type engine and was planning on going to 30% and thought the heck with this I aint buying 2 different fuels...Idled about a half tank through it,re-tuned.
This baby runs like a dream,it will idle a whole tank without shutting down,temps are way down from where they were....I couldnt believe the difference.
Thats what I get for being cheap on fuel:nod:

If you read back a bit here you will find that starting points are HSN flush and LSN 1.5 turns in from flush as a basic start point for all 3 needle types..find grizz1's post on the various needle types and probable final settings..if you have the lsn flush its way rich and no wonder it won't idle properly..you're probably drowning your plug!

1. How are the go .25 6 ports?
2. Are they a pain in the A$$ to breakin like the 5 an 7 .21 race?
3. How does it compare to a modded orion wasp .26, wasp and go same price $160 but dont know which one

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused: :confused::confused::weird:

Thanks for the info there grizz.. one more question for ya though

I see that the carb on these engines are cut for a venturi. Are venturies included with the engine? which other ones will fit into a go carb? I noticed that the one out of my werks b7 wont fit. any info on this will be appreciated.

Not sure about the carbs on the Sport engines. If this was the 3 Port R Spec yes, you would tune it as you described. Quite likely the same carb set up, but not sure.


Follow Gizmatrons advice. Also check the idle gap is .7 to 1mm. This is REAL IMPORTANT.


Motors come with a black plastic 8mm venturi as standard. You can get a set of GO coloured anodised alloy venturi's - 8, 7.5, 7, 6.5
For most tracks the 6.5 works great. Plenty of power still (aids bottom end) and great economy.

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...products_id=50