Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

I`m surprised that no one but me has thought of this! Just shorten the shock tower - body mount piece where the posts go and it may not break so easy! I don't really see the advantage to having the posts so far apart anyway, the old car never had this problem!

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

The advantage of the body posts being farther apart is the way the downforce of the body is transferred to the car. I know that the downforce still has to go down through the same parts to get to the chassis, but it is kinda like having a wider wheelbase. Just a little more stability.
You are right that moving them more central should cause less breakage of the shock tower due to less leverage. Go ahead and get two rear shock towers and glue them together.

asw7576

That what I did. It's very stiff and strong now.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I forgot to suggest as well to the people using a doubled up shock tower. IF you car about the shock angle and body mount position you can do the following. Glue the extra shock tower on the back front side ( the side closer to the front of the car). Cut off the bottom where it mounts to the bulkhead and cut off the edges where the body mounts go. This will keep everything in the original position. If you just glue two together, you can put some spacers on the lower shock mount position to ge the angle straight.

asw7576

Yeah, you're right...... but there are 2 ways to make the shock straight without cutting the carbon fible shock tower.
1. Use thinner spacer at the CF holes.
2. Add spacer at lower suspension arms where the shock end meet.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

If you use a thinner spacer at the upper shock mount, the shock will rub on the shock tower. That is why I didn't suggest doing that. I know there is a little bit of room to use a thinner spacer, but not much.

Sow&Steady

I wrote some stuff when I was building mine. Its in 4 parts and ends with a video of the car being driven. Go read it here.

asw7576

I just come back from Las Vegas last week, great hotels and great shows, really love Bellagio's water fountain shows.

Grasshopperr

Does the 4 handle better than the 3? I know I cant wait till christmas.

asw7576

I hope you can wait till christmas MTX4 have higher cornering speed and love tight corners.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

I've just finnished racing 4 weekends in a row with the MTX-4. The results are good, I've finnished 1st in 2 of the races, took a bump from the B to the A in another finnishing 4th and took 5th in the B at the FL state race.

Now for the repair bill.....
New Front and rear shock towers. (I make them so......FREEBY)
New Chassis plate......Was warped, but don't remember having any major hits.
Parts replaced....Front side pully 24 tooth....hanger wire wore it down.
2 rear bearings....on the upright
1 cracked front upright.

Overall, the cost of running the car is less than it was for my MTX3 other than the chassis.. I think the car is as durable as the 3, but has a bennefit of being a faster car.

I am still puzzled on the chassis. It warped at the two screws where the rear support for the upper deck and just in front of the engine. Looking closer, the battery tray and the two screw holes for the center bulkhead are so close that this might be an issue.

The stock rear shock tower was not broke, but had a warp to it. I believe that the carbon fiber used is componet grade and not the cross lay for better rigidity. The front shock tower was also warped.

After pressing the chassis back to shape, I am going to have it anodozed so I won't confuse it with any others, and I think that I am going to make some changes to the chassis since it is warped, the set screws for setting droop/downstops cut into the chassis, so I am going to drill and tap that area and put a 3mm screw at that point. Being steel, it will be harder than the aluminum chassis and should prove to wear better.

Also, I am looking at a way to build a carbon fiber piece to stiffen the chassis on the exhaust side of the engine. It would house the belt tensioner and attatch to the rear bulkhead. This might prove to be another cure for the chassis flex/warp.

rcracerdude

I would like to see that...

reddishdsb

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know the weight of this car in race trim?

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

In race trim, with body, no fuel, I am sitting at 1728grams. That is with either the Dodge stratus, Caddy, Mazda 6, or the Alfa. I don't see the need to run the titanium hinge pins, front shaft, titanium screws, or change over to the lightweight hubs. These items would lower the weight of the car 32 grams, and I have a few other things I could do to get the weight down another 18grams, so the car can be made very light without spending a lot of money.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

There are a few reasons to continue to lighten the car below the limit. First on the ti 2-speed shaft and hubs you are reducing rotating mass. The reason for the ti hinge pins (at least upper pins) and the upper ti screw kit is to reduce weight up high in the car. Even if you then have ot add weight to make it legal you can then add it to the chassis down low.