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Old 11-20-2005, 01:15 PM   #2221
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Question : Which steering ackerman block that gives me the softest feeling ? A, B, C ?
I`ve always found A to have less turn-in.
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:17 PM   #2222
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Originally Posted by mgreen
Well yesterday was the first time running my MTX4 and I must say that the car is perfect just the way it is; And its so easy to work and adjust on. The handling characteristics exceeded my expectations. The car was flat-out smooth in the cornering and extremely stable. I can not wait to put it on a nice size track to really see what I can make it do. The only thing I did before running it was put universals upfront instead of using the dog-bones.
What universals did you use for the front of the car? Is there universals for the rear ?
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:30 PM   #2223
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The MTX-3 front. They will fit. They do not have universals for the rear yet. The MTX-3 are to small. Atleast that is what I was told. But whenever I would go to a big race, I would always see people loosing the front dog-bones when they would hit a wall, get hit by somebody or whatever. So I just did not want to take that chance.
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Old 11-20-2005, 06:25 PM   #2224
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Originally Posted by asw7576
That why I've got headche where to mount it .....
if using servos with enough power and speed at 4.8v, I'd use 4 aaa custom made rx pack, 2 in front, 2 in back, all laid down, that'll allow the fuel tank to be lower even more by just using small pieces of silicone tubing and larger button head screws holding the tank. the tank will be lower some mms and the weight also. I'll try this once my mtx4 arrives in two weeks!
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Old 11-20-2005, 06:30 PM   #2225
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Originally Posted by mgreen
The MTX-3 front. They will fit. They do not have universals for the rear yet. The MTX-3 are to small. Atleast that is what I was told. But whenever I would go to a big race, I would always see people loosing the front dog-bones when they would hit a wall, get hit by somebody or whatever. So I just did not want to take that chance.

can the mtx3's front universals be used on rear of mtx4?
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Old 11-20-2005, 07:09 PM   #2226
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Originally Posted by Seisick
can the mtx3's front universals be used on rear of mtx4?
No, not long enough. I'm using the MTX-3 rear universals in the front of my 4...it seemed to bind with the MTX-3 front universals. And I got more room for width adjustment. I guess we have to wait for the rear unis.
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Old 11-20-2005, 08:13 PM   #2227
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as for lowering the fuel tank, from what I see, you could only lower the front of the fuel tank due to the rear of the fuel tank is alread (about 1 mm) from the chassis plate. The fuel pick-up is in that area of the tank.
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:06 PM   #2228
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Originally Posted by Seisick
can the mtx3's front universals be used on rear of mtx4?
I tried that, but the front mtx3 universals aren't long enough for mtx4's rear.
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:24 PM   #2229
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Originally Posted by sohlman
No, not long enough. I'm using the MTX-3 rear universals in the front of my 4...it seemed to bind with the MTX-3 front universals. And I got more room for width adjustment. I guess we have to wait for the rear unis.
Funny thing Steve is that I ended up putting the MTX3 rear unis on the front of my 4 for the same reasons. I bet with 0 or 1mm offset wheels the longer unis will fit w/o binding, but I also thing the shorter will still work ok as well. The only reason to put them on would be to add weight as my car is already underweight.

I got to weigh my MTX 4 today. It weighed 1712 grams. That is with the following: Titanium pillow balls, Ti 2sp shaft, Kawahara 1st and 2nd gear housings. That is with Kawahara wheels, Dodge Stratus 3.1 with a kinda heavy paintjob, a JP FX t-03m engine and a JP pipe. I will probably end up with a ti center shaft at some time as well as ti upper screw kit. I may then add some weight by going to the longer front unis as soon as I get a wheel with less offset so I can back out the pillow balls a little. I have a feeling I will end up adding a lot of weight especially if I still use the shorter front unis on the car.

One thing I want to say. This is my opinion, but going to the AAA batteries or even using only 4 of them is the last place I would go to save weight, especially if you are using spektrum. The battery is in the lowest and most centered part of the car. That is where I may try to add weight to my car if I end up needing to.
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:41 AM   #2230
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check this out. 52 grams lighter than stock chassis. 20% more rigid! I cut 2 of these. I did this because the stock chasis of my car warped after 4 races. stock chassis is about 100 grams. this is just 48 grams. I cut 2 of these, added weight till it snapped and did the same to the other stock chassis that warped till it bent. This one took 20% more weight till it snapped -v- bent the aluminum. Now my car is WAY under and still have not put titanium hinge pins in.

After I am done with my club track car, my goal is to have the car at 1600 grams race ready.

Why.......I don't know...because I can.
my friends say I have way too much time on my hands

Somebody needs to give me a job.
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:53 AM   #2231
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Originally Posted by sohlman
No, not long enough. I'm using the MTX-3 rear universals in the front of my 4...it seemed to bind with the MTX-3 front universals. And I got more room for width adjustment. I guess we have to wait for the rear unis.
Stevo,
Finally picked my 4 up, have to set some time asside to get er done. Give me a shout, so you can give me the ins and outs before I start the build.
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:05 AM   #2232
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
check this out. 52 grams lighter than stock chassis. 20% more rigid! I cut 2 of these. I did this because the stock chasis of my car warped after 4 races. stock chassis is about 100 grams. this is just 48 grams. I cut 2 of these, added weight till it snapped and did the same to the other stock chassis that warped till it bent. This one took 20% more weight till it snapped -v- bent the aluminum. Now my car is WAY under and still have not put titanium hinge pins in.

After I am done with my club track car, my goal is to have the car at 1600 grams race ready.

Why.......I don't know...because I can.
my friends say I have way too much time on my hands

Somebody needs to give me a job.
Is that Carbon Fibre Plate or Sticker ?

What about heat transfer from engine to chassis ?
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:11 AM   #2233
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Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
Stevo,
Finally picked my 4 up, have to set some time asside to get er done. Give me a shout, so you can give me the ins and outs before I start the build.
No prob, Jamie. Most of the tips you would have done on any new car, but there are couple specific.

Scott, are you going to have your 4 at the T4T race? It will be my 4s debut.
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:13 AM   #2234
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thats not a sticker, thats carbon fiber. as for the heat transer, we used to run nitro pan cars with carbon fiber lower plates. never had a problem with it. Who is is that is making carbon fiber pipes? Heat isn't a problem for that and that takes the the most heat other than manifold.


This picture is of the chassis before I cleaned it after cutting it. NO STICKER!
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:24 AM   #2235
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
thats not a sticker, thats carbon fiber. as for the heat transer, we used to run nitro pan cars with carbon fiber lower plates. never had a problem with it. Who is is that is making carbon fiber pipes? Heat isn't a problem for that and that takes the the most heat other than manifold.


This picture is of the chassis before I cleaned it after cutting it. NO STICKER!
Okay, I believe you man !!!

Wow, you are crazy !! First time I see carbon fibre plate for nitro cars ! Sorry to repeat the same question again ..... Can CF take the heat from engine ? The epoxy inside is not melted ?
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