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Old 11-19-2005, 08:44 PM   #2206
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I understand the adding low, but I've taken most he weight off the top already. I still have a few things I want to try, but adding 2 oz to the car can be hard to do. but since we are on the subject, where to put the weight? and why. Front/rear/ mid.....for what reasons?
just need the advice in case I do go lighter.
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Old 11-19-2005, 09:15 PM   #2207
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The regulation stated minimum of 1725 grams in race ready condition without fuel ( if I'm not mistaken ), so unless you go for club race, there is no benefit of going lower than 1725 grams. I'm sure MTX4 designers wants the car to be weight around that number.

Going lighter increase performance such as better power to weight ratio, acceleration, fuel economy, cornering speed, tire wear rate.
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Old 11-19-2005, 10:09 PM   #2208
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I dont know about but my car weight was at1763 and that was ti pilloballs holow 2speed all ti screws mazda 6 two thin coats of white paint kit tires and personal transponder one heavy thing blade rear sway bar and for reference mugen pipe 11 fin x12 head
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Old 11-19-2005, 10:30 PM   #2209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
In race trim, with body, no fuel, I am sitting at 1728grams. That is with either the Dodge stratus, Caddy, Mazda 6, or the Alfa. I don't see the need to run the titanium hinge pins, front shaft, titanium screws, or change over to the lightweight hubs. These items would lower the weight of the car 32 grams, and I have a few other things I could do to get the weight down another 18grams, so the car can be made very light without spending a lot of money.
Wow that's real light. Are you sure you got your scale calibrated right? Following ROAR rules, mine is about 1761 grams (using USPS calibrated scale), with ti screws as the only upgrade. Im using Stratus 3.1 and also uncut kit tires. Pretty heavy. Need to cut down weight.
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Old 11-19-2005, 10:32 PM   #2210
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ooohhh, no transponder included on mine.
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:15 AM   #2211
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couldn't sleep last nigtht so I did some experimenting. Got the car down some more. I now sit on the scales (USPS too) at 1704 in race trim with personal transponder and I looked at taking about 4 more grams out. I still have some areas I could lighten, like taking the battery out and putting in the mtx3 pack. just doing that put me down to 1680, but that would change the way the car handled when the other pack was put back in.

Some things I did:
Drilled the engine mount blocks in the center with 5mm hole, cross drilled the pully mounts, lightened the brake disk by cutting cooling holes, drilled holes in the brake plates, Ti scres up and down, Ti 2 speed shaft and front shaft, Ti 2 speed one-way and 2nd speed bell, shortened all wires to lenghth (only 1 gram, won't do that again).

Things I can still do:
change servo's out, running s9451's, going to a lighter servo like the Hitec, I can shave over an ouce by going to non-metal geared servo's. (28 grams there!), Ti hinge pins (9 grams), pulling rear cross gears out (4 grams), change out last remaining screws to Ti ones (8 grams) Total: 49 grams
Possible new weight: 1655 and still able to switch out battery pack at a savings of 24 grams, so can you imagin a car at 1628 grams!!!
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Old 11-20-2005, 07:57 AM   #2212
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my car also has the heavy mrx4 break disk
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Old 11-20-2005, 08:23 AM   #2213
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Well yesterday was the first time running my MTX4 and I must say that the car is perfect just the way it is; And its so easy to work and adjust on. The handling characteristics exceeded my expectations. The car was flat-out smooth in the cornering and extremely stable. I can not wait to put it on a nice size track to really see what I can make it do. The only thing I did before running it was put universals upfront instead of using the dog-bones.
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:43 AM   #2214
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I think the major weight savings can be done by replacing MTX4 battery with MTX3 battery style. I'm thinking to zip tie the battery at rear shock tower for easy maintenance ( back pack style ), or front bumber, or zip tie it at receiver cover.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:06 AM   #2215
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It seems like that would throw the weight transfer from front to back and back to front way off.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:14 AM   #2216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreen
It seems like that would throw the weight transfer from front to back and back to front way off.
That why I've got headche where to mount it .....
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:22 AM   #2217
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Anybody running lipoly batteries?
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:51 AM   #2218
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If you can get your car down to weight without changing the battery to the MTX3 pack, then I wouldn't. The battery is centered and down as low as you can get it. That spot is where you would theoretically want to add weight if your car was too light.

I haven't weighed my car or even put it on a significant diet yet, but on my MTX3 I had to add weight. Inspired by Darin Ishitani, I made a small cavity in my front foam bumper and put two nickels in it. This also had the effect of adding a slight amount of steering. Best part was I never had to worry about it coming out as the the upper plastic part of the bumper secured it all.


For club racing with no scales, see what you can get it down to. For roar rules racing remember.... Less rotating mass, and lower CG.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:54 AM   #2219
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Question : Which steering ackerman block that gives me the softest feeling ? A, B, C ?
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:47 AM   #2220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
so can you imagin a car at 1628 grams!!!
James...make sure your car's about 1735 for the State race. The scale at Fort Myers is really sensitive I'll make to check your car during Tech
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