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Old 11-14-2005, 12:35 AM   #2041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
That what I did, I mixed the silicone oil with tamiya ceramic grease ( 1 tea spoon size ). The gears still okay even after 8 gallons of fuels.

Btw, is it normal the oil diff become so black ? Is it time to refresh the oil diff ?
yes it is normal, well it shouldn't be but the 2 shafts wear out and thats how it becomes black/dark color i redo my diffs every 2 race meetings so yes do replace the oil when it goes black.

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Old 11-14-2005, 12:39 AM   #2042
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Originally Posted by asw7576
Maybe car manufacturers want us to keep buying oil diff ? That why most rc manufacturers don't make ball diff.

Hey, I have good idea..... why not make ball diff as optional equipment ?

I can't tell why gear diff is better than ball diff except durability and cheap reasons.
your 2 reasons are good enuff fot using gear diff then ball diff..

from experience, ball diff is not constant and have to adjust all the time (time consuming.. no no) plus you dun exactly know how much is enuff. you got to try and try and try. Plus.. if you lose those balls.. your diff is not working right.

end of the day.. i prefer gear then balls.. untill somebody come up with something good to keep the balls in .. then maybe
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:39 AM   #2043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
yes it is normal, well it shouldn't be but the 2 shafts wear out and thats how it becomes black/dark color i redo my diffs every 2 race meetings so yes do replace the oil when it goes black.

Chris
You do oil change after 2 race meetings ? Wow !!! I haven't change it since new , just top it off hehehe.

Last edited by asw7576; 11-14-2005 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:42 AM   #2044
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I also re-oil my shocks every 2 meetings as well (60wt)
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:07 AM   #2045
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Check this out http://www.kfactoryracing.com/prolis...01120805-97109
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:09 AM   #2046
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Originally Posted by ROBBIE C
There's a reason why Mugen uses gear diffs it's for the same reason real cars use them, very efficient.


robbie posted this a while back.... very true
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:13 AM   #2047
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Originally Posted by MRX_joe21

kfactory stuff is cool but those are for the RRR...
but then again, it shouldn't be long and they will come up with good stuff for the mtx-4
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:20 AM   #2048
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Well, I raced my new 4 for the first time this weekend. The car is better than the previous car.

To address the things mentioned.

The flywheel on the MTX3prospec and MTX 4 are the same flywheel. Same flywheel, weights, backing plate, spring, shoe and thrust bearing. Different clutch bell, bearings, and spring retainer.

I do see a rubbing line on the 2 speed housing. I am running the stock pinions with the smaller spurs. There is actually clearance, but my bet is that under chassis flex, the clutch bell does rub the 2 speed housing a little. Also the sway bar seems to lightly rub the housing as well. The rubbing while not wanted is pretty minor. If/when a stiffer chassis or an aluminum brace becomes available this may cure the clutch bell rub. Lengthening the links may raise the sway bar enough to clear, or I will try raising the sway bar slightly somehow.

I also destroyed one of the clutch bell bearings. These bearings are the same ones that are used on the steering. On the MTX3 that is the only place they were used. I don't know how good these bearings are, but I am going to try some other bearings perhaps from Acer or Boca.

The rear shock tower. There are a variety of easy ways to remedy the problem. Skyline makes a 3mm. Many team drivers are simply gluing two towers together. This will change the shock angle slightly. You can leave it alone, space out the bottom of the shock some, or you can cut off the bottom part of the shock tower, and glue it on the inside so the shock mounting doesn't change. You can also cut the body mount area so as not to move the body mount position any farther backwards if you are concerned with that. I also know that Kawahara as well as a few lesser knowns are making a 4mm shock tower. The Kawahara will be available through Mugen eventually.

I used the 2mm Mugen/Fast tires and didn't have rubbing problems. One thing to note. I put universals on the front of the car. In order to get the front track width narrow enough I noticed a slight bind when using the MTX3 front universals. They got close enough to bottoming out in the drive cups. I ended up putting MTX3 rear universals on. I bet with 1mm or zero offset, the MTX3 front universals will be fine.

I also noticed that the plastic ball ends were a little loose. I don't know if this batch is slightly loose or not, but I did have a camber link pop off and there were a few others had that happen as well. We could of course use the pivot balls and ends off the MTX3 but then they are a little harder to install and remove. I will keep you guys updated.

This is a brand new car, and now that the masses have the car we will learn a lot about it. None of these problems are major and I think we have a great new platform.
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Old 11-14-2005, 03:35 AM   #2049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I also noticed that the plastic ball ends were a little loose. I don't know if this batch is slightly loose or not, but I did have a camber link pop off and there were a few others had that happen as well. We could of course use the pivot balls and ends off the MTX3 but then they are a little harder to install and remove. I will keep you guys updated.

This is a brand new car, and now that the masses have the car we will learn a lot about it. None of these problems are major and I think we have a great new platform.
Yeah, I feel that too.....

I think the metal hexagonal ball ( similar in mrx4 ) are slightly thinner. That's why the plastic ball end connectors are easly to click than previous version.

I use H0860 black ball connectors for rear chamber link and steering linkage. They remain intact even after some bad hits.
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Old 11-14-2005, 05:48 AM   #2050
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Default MTX-4

Hi Guys !

I had my first full day out with the MTX-4... my ! the stock setting was already just great !

I'd raced on the same track layout as from my previous race with my MTX-3 Prospec... this car has a much better cornering speed and better steering (when you need it!)...

Simply wants to make you hold and gun the throttle everywhere and every corner all the time ! Fantastic ! Enjoy !!!
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Old 11-14-2005, 06:11 AM   #2051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
I also re-oil my shocks every 2 meetings as well (60wt)

Me Too
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Old 11-14-2005, 06:13 AM   #2052
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I put my mtx3 setup on my mtx4 and ran the same track and 2to 3 tenths faster than my mtx3 that i had tweeked for two years I love this car but i hate the 5/8 bearings I blew one already I will look for a better grade of bearing.
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Old 11-14-2005, 07:07 AM   #2053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Performance maybe the same like RRR. Durability maybe better on Mugen cars.

How come your name joemugen ?
hi,
the first car that i ever drove was a mtx-3 and that is when i made my screenname. and i like to keep the same name as i build a reputation in the r/c community. plus, i like mugen products.
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Old 11-14-2005, 07:10 AM   #2054
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Originally Posted by rc racing dude
joemugen, The RRR is a great car, ( the best ) sedan in 1/10th racing today. The mtx 4 might be better,we will have to wait and see. For now stay with your RRR and just change your name to joekyosho!
lol. i like to stick with the same screename. i really think all the cars are very competitive, and i will probably try the mtx-4 sooner or later. thanks for your advice.
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Old 11-14-2005, 07:11 AM   #2055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
I think the RRR and MTX4 are going to be very close in terms of performance.
An example of this was the recently held Australian National Titles........9 MTX 4`s in the A main, 1 RRR in the A main. The RRR went on to win.
The 2006 Worlds are going to be very very interesting
wow, that is quite impressive performance from mugen. i would love to see the results of the worlds.
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