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Old 06-28-2004, 11:12 PM   #13276
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race

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Originally posted by Proficar403
I don't really feel that I am too far away from where I want the clutch set. I doubt that I will need to change to a harder spring for my home track, but it is probably something I will end up playing with soon.
Coming out of the corners going into straights, the clutch grabs really hard and you could see the car leaping forward !

But I guess sometimes it makes for harder driving around the track with a grippy clutch.
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:21 PM   #13277
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Hey Guys, sorry for being so distant... HECTIC at work...

I wanted to say\ask a few things.

We had a conversation ages ago about the hardness of the Novarossi inline pipe... IT IS HARD. I hit a wall last week (not concentrating) and the stinger caused the pipe to hit the front belt pulley shaft, it dented slightly, but I hit the wall HARD. I have not hit much, but I have been a little brutal, I have yet to break something, touch wood I dont, but the fact remains that this car is STRONG in our Climate here in SA.

My car does not seem to get into second gear, but the shoes are loose, any looser and it jams... come to think of it, it may be in second... it just need to check... Hope everyone is well!. leaned the engine out a little, it still smokes a lot, but it moves at a rate of knots, and the engine just goes faster. I am having a problem, the low-end needle is not set correctly, but I cant get it right, it just revs high, the idle is set to 1mm and it idles, for a bit, but then the revs climb, if I rev it, it revs, settles to idle, but then the revs climb again, I thought the low end wasto lean, so I turned it out, but then it dies when you rev, I am lost with this, any ideas?
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:39 PM   #13278
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
I am having a problem, the low-end needle is not set correctly, but I cant get it right, it just revs high, the idle is set to 1mm and it idles, for a bit, but then the revs climb, if I rev it, it revs, settles to idle, but then the revs climb again, I thought the low end wasto lean, so I turned it out, but then it dies when you rev, I am lost with this, any ideas?
I've been through these kind of problems, too. Set your carb back to the factory settings, i.e. as they were when you got the engine. This will give you a starting point.
Do a few laps and then come in. First I would set the idle screw, as I found when I got this wrong, the engine kept dying and therefore I couldn't tune the HSN.
After you've done the few laps, your engine will be nicely upto operating temp. Now use the pinch method, to see if your LSN is correct. Pinch the fuel tube right next to the carb inlet.
If the revs increase, then the LSN is rich - if the engine dies without the revs increasing, you're too lean.
Adjust the LSN until the revs increase for about 0.5 to 1 second and then the engine dies.

Your HSN should be a bit rich at the moment, so when you hit the track at first it should probably four-stroke, but as the engine gets upto operating temp, it should run aok. Really I would use a temp gun at this point - my experience of engine tuning is not so great, so I prefer to stick to the safe side. Getting the HSN leaned out until you're seeing about 105 C is a good point to get to - after a fast 3 lap run.
Once you have your HSN set correctly use the pinch method to get the LSN tuned again. Also when you're on the track, when you enter a slow corner after a flat out section and your revs remain high when you come out of the throttle, then your LSN is still a bit rich.

Hope this helps, Mark.
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:48 PM   #13279
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
I am having a problem, the low-end needle is not set correctly, but I cant get it right, it just revs high, the idle is set to 1mm and it idles, for a bit, but then the revs climb, if I rev it, it revs, settles to idle, but then the revs climb again, I thought the low end wasto lean, so I turned it out, but then it dies when you rev, I am lost with this, any ideas?
Up to this point when the engine revs climb again, I would make the carb idle opening smaller with the idle screw (anticlockwise) to keep the idle down. If they engine cannot sustain idle and dies after a few seconds idling, I would lean the low end little by little.

Play with the idle screw and the low end needle to get your best punch and at the same time to keep the idle reasonably LOW and STEADY.
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:54 PM   #13280
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Default Re: Re: Re: LRP race

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Looks like he used a very short spring on the brake side of the linkage too like what Pyramid / Goldfinger suggested.
I also noticed from the pic that Julius was using new Serpent wheel nuts ! Like what Goldfinger / Pyramid has mentioned, the new nuts have been revised. Just got mine but I don't know how they perform if compared to the older one. No more the wide flanges. The flanges have grooves on the surface that grips better. But the wheel nuts are not self locking type i.e. does not have nylon ring in them.
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Old 06-28-2004, 11:55 PM   #13281
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Coming out of the corners going into straights, the clutch grabs really hard and you could see the car leaping forward !

But I guess sometimes it makes for harder driving around the track with a grippy clutch.
Yes.. I still prefer those "grippy" clutch combo.
Because with starting point around 1.5mm(centax nut) I have very-very wide spot to adjust my clutch to suit my engine / track condition.

Proficar403, im not a clutch expert, but if you are using the yellow shoe and still bogs.. dont be afraid to tighten 30 minutes deeper.
And loosen little by little after that.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:08 AM   #13282
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
[B
Just my 2 cents. [/B]
no more 2 rupiah Sir?
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:11 AM   #13283
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Since I remember,

#SER-802235 Spacer Steering block & upright

if u use above option part, be sure everything inside knuckles are free from dirt. It does not hold up until 6hours of using without cleanning them all out Any words from you Mr. A Tan?
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:19 AM   #13284
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
no more 2 rupiah Sir?
No sir, not this moment. It is getting weaker and weaker.
Maybe due to high inflation coz by Portugoal effect.
Since Bank Note circulation is represented by money order and phone order only.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:29 AM   #13285
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Since I remember,

#SER-802235 Spacer Steering block & upright

if u use above option part, be sure everything inside knuckles are free from dirt. It does not hold up until 6hours of using without cleanning them all out Any words from you Mr. A Tan?
This is your consecutive 2nd month for being too polite.

The purpose of the spacer is very good, but someone must reconsidering the tolerance between its outer against the knuckle.
When dirt can reach that space, it willl locks both bearing and spacer to acts like a bushing. You can imagine how much heat generate by that.
The above guy had his tires (both) "shoot-off" from his car. THe rims melts and make a succesfull runaway from his car.

Mark, how is my grammar ? getting better or not ?
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:37 AM   #13286
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Default Pipe in freezer

Morning guys

The "pipe in freezer" thing is working great.
It is in right shape again.
The only problem I have is that when I was trying to bend the pipe exit to the side it made a litle crack on the exhaust next to the pipe exit.
This happend when I was trying to make a quick fix on the racetrack.
Can I fix this somehow?
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:41 AM   #13287
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Mark, how is my grammar ? getting better or not ?
A bit more practice Goldfinger - but there again, I'm not the right one to correct you I was reacently invited by a Girlfriend to her English class (she is an English teacher for non-english speakers) - she wanted to show the class how an Englishman speaks......after 10 minutes she threw me out, as my english was worse than her students You can ask me about German grammar, but not English
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:43 AM   #13288
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Default Re: Pipe in freezer

Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
The only problem I have is that when I was trying to bend the pipe exit to the side it made a litle crack on the exhaust next to the pipe exit.
You can try using the epoxy thingy to mend the crack back.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:45 AM   #13289
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Default Re: Pipe in freezer

Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
Morning guys

The "pipe in freezer" thing is working great.
It is in right shape again.
The only problem I have is that when I was trying to bend the pipe exit to the side it made a litle crack on the exhaust next to the pipe exit.
This happend when I was trying to make a quick fix on the racetrack.
Can I fix this somehow?
Cool! ehm, no pun intended
Well, if you get the putty, then it will seal the crack.
I have a pipe with a tail pipe which has been bent toward the exhaust pipe body Some big fat fool decided to stand right in front of me as I as exiting a fast corner - I couldn't see anything and ended up running into the side, bending my tail pipe.
I think I just have to live with it now.
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:45 AM   #13290
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
The above guy had his tires (both) "shoot-off" from his car. THe rims melts and make a succesfull runaway from his car.


That's really funny. I guess that's the price you pay for being lazy to clean your car ! (j/k)
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