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Old 03-30-2005, 07:51 AM   #20776
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Which one is this? Legal 3 port or the 5 port outlaw?
5 Ports ... very powerful !! ..
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Old 03-30-2005, 09:31 AM   #20777
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Default Re: 1/8 scale ey !

Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Hi Glen,
Having never driven eighth scaler model before, I was wondering if you might have any slight ideas on how to make the 710 drives/behaves like its big brother using lola body ?
Hi redsand!

I don't know if there is any way to make the 710 behave like a 1/8 scale car. There are so many differences between them:

Engines:
1/8: .21 engine with outragious horsepower and torque
710: .12 engine with good horsepower and torque

Drivetrain:
1/8: front one-way, rear solid
710: front diff or one-way, rear diff

Tires:
1/8: really really fat foam tires, mounted solidly over axles
710: really skinny foam tires, mounted like regular sedan rims

Body:
1/8: high-downforce lola body
710: low-downforce sedan body


Did I mention the OUTRAGEOUS speed and horsepower in the 1/8 cars? And the huge tires?


To start, put a really powerful 5-port engine in the 710. Then find a different wheel-mounting system like the larger cars. But this will all make the car non-elligible for racing I believe, and will be very expensive.

200mm class is fun... 1/8 class is SUPER EXCITING !!!
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:37 PM   #20778
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If you run on the straights most of the time or if you're not cornering hard enough, then your rear tires only need little camber...

How much is it coned? Smaller diameter in the inner side compared to the outer or vice versa? If smaller diameter in the inner side, then it's good. Not too much though.

Anyway, set the rear camber so that it's just slightly coned (smaller inner diameter compared to outer). For the front tires, make sure the camber is enough to make them wear flat.
Thanks D,

Right rear coned more than left rear coz running clockwise so I think the left wears more on the outside. Right rear coned as much as 1.5mm.(diff between outside and inside dia.)
And I'm running only 2deg camber.

So what's reasonable amount of coning for the rear tyres? 1mm diff?

Cheers...
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:38 PM   #20779
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
So what's reasonable amount of coning for the rear tyres? 1mm diff?

Cheers...
1 to 1.5 mm difference is ok I think. This applies to the rear. The left side needs more negative camber. Left and right camber can be different.
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:41 PM   #20780
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader


So what's reasonable amount of coning for the rear tyres? 1mm diff?
I set a pre camber on my rears of one degree. And then adjust the camber to keep that cone shape. Very rarely is my left and right camber set the same.
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Old 03-30-2005, 08:28 PM   #20781
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Default Re: Re: 1/8 scale ey !

Hi Glenn,

At our club, we started running lola open cockpit body about a month ago. With sedan setup, the car understeered horribly. So, I changed things a little at a time. Ended up with this setup:

Oh, I need to mention that we use 32mm wide rear tires and standard 26mm fronts.

The things that have the biggest improvements are:

Rear track width sets at 205mm (using 1mm spacer on each axle)
Front sets at 201mm.

Rear diff is set deadlocked.

Any other things are left to stock setup.
Now the puppy is a blast.
Last Sunday we had a race, from the print outs, we found out that all of the guys who were running lola body gained a lap and the lap times were down at least .500 secs.

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi redsand!

I don't know if there is any way to make the 710 behave like a 1/8 scale car. There are so many differences between them:

Engines:
1/8: .21 engine with outragious horsepower and torque
710: .12 engine with good horsepower and torque

Drivetrain:
1/8: front one-way, rear solid
710: front diff or one-way, rear diff

Tires:
1/8: really really fat foam tires, mounted solidly over axles
710: really skinny foam tires, mounted like regular sedan rims

Body:
1/8: high-downforce lola body
710: low-downforce sedan body


Did I mention the OUTRAGEOUS speed and horsepower in the 1/8 cars? And the huge tires?


To start, put a really powerful 5-port engine in the 710. Then find a different wheel-mounting system like the larger cars. But this will all make the car non-elligible for racing I believe, and will be very expensive.

200mm class is fun... 1/8 class is SUPER EXCITING !!!
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Old 03-31-2005, 01:38 AM   #20782
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Default Re: Re: 1/8 scale ey !

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
...

Drivetrain:
1/8: front one-way, rear solid
710: front diff or one-way, rear diff

...
You can get this rear solid axle for the 710.

Also, you can use the Loletta shell quite comfortably with the 710.

With the above and a very good outlaw .15 engine, it can be very exciting.
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Old 03-31-2005, 05:12 AM   #20783
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Did anybody heard about some kind of problems with new series of engines MEGA 2,11ccm (zx12) that come in stores in this days
It sopose to be some kind of bearing problem ...
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Old 03-31-2005, 05:21 AM   #20784
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Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
Did anybody heard about some kind of problems with new series of engines MEGA 2,11ccm (zx12) that come in stores in this days
It sopose to be some kind of bearing problem ...
The only problems I heard about were on the first ZX21 series engines and not the ZX12 - there was a problem with the material of the crankshaft.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 03-31-2005, 05:51 AM   #20785
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I'll post' it when I learn more about the problems
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Old 03-31-2005, 05:59 AM   #20786
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Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf

It sopose to be some kind of bearing problem ...
Their bearings are above expectation..
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:14 AM   #20787
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Quote:
Originally posted by lagnaf
It sopose to be some kind of bearing problem ...
Maybe the bearing just don't sit and aligned perfectly, just like RB .12 engines... I think for every engine we are better (and also recommended) to re-check and clean them before running in
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Old 03-31-2005, 12:30 PM   #20788
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
Maybe the bearing just don't sit and aligned perfectly, just like RB .12 engines... I think for every engine we are better (and also recommended) to re-check and clean them before running in
How is the alignment checked and repaired?
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:19 PM   #20789
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The local hobbyshops around me dont carry serpents one way lube. Is there anything i can substitute in place of this?

Any suggestions or tips i might need while assembling this kit?
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:32 PM   #20790
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Quote:
Originally posted by Maxx
The local hobbyshops around me dont carry serpents one way lube. Is there anything i can substitute in place of this?
I've heard you could use thin base oil.

Quote:
Originally posted by Maxx
Any suggestions or tips i might need while assembling this kit?
Lube and rub the ends of the dogbones with light oil. Also lube the shafts where the bearing rolls on the shaft. Don't tighten the screws that thread onto the plastics too tightly.

For the Centax clutch, look here. You could try getting the yellow Centax shoes first and try playing around with the flyweights as per in the article.

For the rear ball diff, look here. Make sure you get this set correctly because most of the "handling" problems is a result of not building the rear ball diff correctly.

You could also look here for some tips, ideas and hop ups if you're interested.

For everything else, look at the FAQ.
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